2008 Wine of the Year

It's that time right? Wine of the Year time. Writers post their thoughts on the best wines they've tasted that past year and then hoards of people go out and search and buy these same wines with the expectation that they will also have Wine of the Year type experiences. And there in lies a fundamental problem between the current system of wine critiquing and the way great wine is actually experienced.

My Wine of the Year?

'59 Domaine de la Romanee Conti Richebourg Grand Cru....The wine was profound in a deeply emotional way. Tasting notes are simply an insult to it. I was given a glass at my Uncle in Law's bachelor party wine bacchanal and we were all sitting around this large old teak dinner table outside. We were at my uncle's old friend's house which happens to be situated right on a marina. It was about 10:00pm and the temperature was just cold enough to demand a sweatshirt. That night also saw bottles of Raveneau, Niellon, Trapet, Gaunoux...and multiple bottles of Grand Crus. And to raise the bar, we also tasted the 1969 Richebourg as well. But my lasting memory of that '59, and drinking that '59, was 8 guys huddled around this table...an indescribable wine in our glasses...an outside temperature that was just cold enough to have us all cupping our glasses with both hands to keep the fragile wine from getting too cold...and total silence for about 5 minutes...It was if we had all simultaneously gone to wine church.

I'm racking my brain and it's leading me through this journey of additional great wine experiences this past year...Roumier Clos de Bussiere at that same uncle in law's wedding. My first taste of older Clemens Busch at the office. Drinking old Barolo (a bevy of) at the Outpost estate on Howell Mountain. Dining alone and loving it at Bar Boulud while drinking this old crazy Savoie rouge from Rosenthal's portfolio....All lots of fun and very good times...but it was that one moment with the '59 that takes the cake.

And my larger point is...if you were to get that '59 Richebourg and take it home...and drink it...I almost guarantee you won't have the same experience I did. The Table and the experience of the table makes the food...makes the wine. All things need to be excellent, but the magic comes only when all things are excellent and there is that one moment that is shared amongst like minds. There is no critique for that...For me, I went to wine church on a cold Summer's evening over a bottle of '59 in 2008. That worked for me.

Syrah....why?

Oddly enough...despite all of my ranting and raving about Euro-focused, traditional wines and that overall style..my Americana kicks in now and then I find myself jonesing for some really well made Californian Syrah. Yes, those who know me well are shaking their heads. You gotta be kidding me? Nope- Cali Syrah. Ojai. Copain. Edmunds St John. Really crunchy, chewy, black pepper laced, dirt stuffed, blackberry jammed, old fashioned fruit forward Cali C-Rah...

And it only comes when I'm also absolutely jonesing for some Americana home cooking. Real deal American hamburgers. You know. The burger that's 3 inches high with a tomato slice that's almost 1/2 an inch thick. And red onion- a requirement....or....A fantastic well made Chili. Last night was chili. Well made. No Syrah. A very good house Negroamaro...very chewy, earthy, and crunchy...so I was happy. Still, I wanted a Syrah.

I bring this up as I truly believe that we Americans don't understand Syrah. What do you do with it. The answer is eat it with American food. American Syrah is big and bold. Forward and hugely flavorful. Sounds like our food, no?

So, next time your jonesing for a great burger, chili, Tex-Mex, braised shortribs, BBQ, etc....Go pop a bottle of Syrah from the West Coast. A knew discovery awaits. I guarantee it.

Daydreams of far off European Mountain meals

I totally believe in a direct correlation between a place, its food, and its wine...and the feeling you can get from just thinking about those things together.

For instance, just the other day I was flipping through my iPod and came upon a couple tracks from Pavarotti. It was about 4pm on a Sunday and my mind almost immediately was transported to Tuscany, to fresh pasta with ham and tomato cream sauce...and a beautiful bottle of Chianti...

That said, same goes for the New World as well. Napa makes sense in Napa. It's a grandiose place. The food is perfect, fresh, and almost constructed like every dish was designed to be in a Food and Wine Magazine pictorial. The wines drink the same way. Perfection of fruit is a place that many Napa vintners seem interested in growing. Sometimes...usually in very grandiose places, with grandiose dishes...steakhouses, for example...Napa wines make sense to me.

Right now, for me though...I like the backwoods. Right now it's cold where I live- very cold. My mind often shifts to daydreams of entering a small tavern in Europe just before dark. A hearty stew over noodles in a small service iron kettle. Chunks of warm peasant bread. Mountain cheeses. And a bottle of red wine to match...

Reduction

The more and more I study cooking technique and theory, the more I find myself understanding that great really soulfull food comes from a slow steady reduction. Pierre Franey's recipes are based on it. Marcella Hazan's recipes are based on it. Keller's recipes are based on it.

The other night I prepared a simple roasted chicken. I roasted the chicken, and upon done-ness, took the chicken out of the pan, poured off a decent amount of the fat, added some white wine, and then reduced everything until I had a small amount of liquid left. The recution took almost 10 minutes. I swirled in some butter. Carved the chicken and served with rice.

Wifey licked the plate clean- literally- and declared it one of the most magnificent meals she had ever had.

Little Man...usually averse to chicken...cried for thirds!!!

Wow! 2 for 2. I studied my success. I didn't stuff anything in the chicken. Didn't add any stock to the pan while roasting- nor did I add any onions in the pan. And I didn't even baste the bird while cooking. Just a slow dry roast until finished. And then that sauce.

Lesson learned:

Reduction folks. When in doubt- reduce and you will create flavor.

Bird Day

It's very trendy to recommend fruity wines with the whole Thanksgiving thing. Zinfandel for reds. Riesling for whites. Sure, they work...

But, I would advise a different course for something deeper- earth. The food we eat on Thanksgiving is food from the Earth. Potatoes. Mushrooms. Celery. Bread. Cranberries. Turkey and reduced meat gravvy. Sure you could toss in sweet potatoes, but even these are Earthy food. So, I advocate a match.

For reds, drink Burgundy- specifically wines from the Cote de Nuits. If on a budget drink Haut Cote de Nuits or Marsannay. Of course, great Bourgogne Rouge is always advised. Or, drink really kick ass Cru Beaujolais- La Pierre Morgon, Roilette Fleurie, Michaud Brouilly are all advised. Or, Loire reds. Joguet, Olga Raffault and Baudry Chinons, or Breton Bourgeuils.

For whites- white Burgundy. Specifically- Chablis. Raveneau if you got and can afford it. If not- older Pinson, Fevre, Dauvissant, or Picq. Or, Thevenet....older Thevenet. That said, don' turn down Cote d'Or whites if you can get 'em or can afford them as well....

As you can see I'm steering you into France. Italy's no slouch as well...but more on he red side than white.

Barbera.....specifically...Giacomo Conterno, Mascarello, and/or Trinchero. I'm also a fan of Clerico's Ciabot bottling.

Weight Watchers?

My wife has dragged me back into one of those "we need to lose 15lbs" moments. I'm complaining, but not really. I have been feeling a little sluggish lately and the lure of luxurious food is not as compelling as before because of my heft- so to speak. So, why not?

So, she's joined Weight Watchers, and of course therefore so have I- not by choice, mind you. Now, I've done the Miami Beach Diet. As you've read, I've done an Ayurvedic Cleanse, and now here I am studying the Weight Watchers program.

Greatly reduced portions.

Hugely reduced Carbs.

Hugely reduced fatty proteins.

Massive amounts of veggies and heavy water based fruits (ie- apples).

And wherever possible, buy low fat. And wherever possible, they're recommending that you buy the Weight Watchers brand. Hmmm?

Whatever. The important thing for me (as I know this much- each person's metabolism and body configuration is wildly different), is exercise, heavy veggies, low low sugar, and small portions of everything else. And the one thing Weight Watchers also asks you to do is zero vino....

So, I'm going to do this Weight Watchers thing with my wife- for my wife. But, honestly, I know my body. Run. Eat your veggies- lots of 'em. Tiny portions on everything else. Sugar is your enemy. And watch your snacking. I do this, I bet I lose 10lbs in 2 weeks.

We'll see.

The olive recipe

Do you love olives?

I love olives.

There used to be a great restaurant on the West side of mid-town Manhattan- La Locanda- and when you sat down Pep,e 'the proprietor', would bring you a marinated small plate of black olives and lentils. I could eat just that dish for the rest of my life.

What I now know, but never saw, was the intense marinade that those simple olives and lentils under went in order to bring them to that higher place. So, now I'm going to pass on what I consider to be one of the great antipasto dishes of all time...

Buy some olives that you like...maybe some big green Sicilians, some Kalamatas, some Nicoise, etc...

Rinse them thoroughly with water to get as much of the salt and vinegar out.

Put them in a large bowl.

Take 5-8 large garlic cloves. Crush them and peel the skin off. Put them in the same bowl.

Crack some large pepper chunks into the bowl. Sea salt into the bowl as well.

If you want, maybe add some lemon peel to the bowl.

Throw in some earthy aromatic herbs like thyme, sage, rosemary into the bowl. If you only have dried- so be it.

Add like a little tiny dollop of cumin to the bowl. This is important! Don't forget the cumin- a little more is safer than a little less.

Get some decent olive oil and almost cover all the ingredients.

Mix well.

Let stand for a day.

You now have one of the best dipping olive oils on the planet. And the olives are delicious as well...

In an ideal world, go to a good wine shop and buy a nice $14.99 bottle of Friulian Tocai of get Bisol Prosecco. If they're trying to sell you on something they recommend that's a couple of dollars more...go for it. You only live once.

Sante!

Alfredo

Cheap and easy I say...(and the kid will scarf it down)...

Cook some pasta (rigatoni if you got it).

In a separate large casserole dish, melt some butter (a good amount) and cream and milk together. Salt and pepper. Don't boil but make sure the butter is melted and the mixture is integrated. Add pasta. Stir to coat. Cook together for like 5 minutes. Add a cup of finely grated Parmesan cheese, a teeny dash of nutmeg, and a little more milk (if needed). Finely chop up some parsley and add it.

Serve. I all but guarantee that your spouse and your child will scarf this down.

Recommended wines:

Italian Barbera d'Alba or Barbera d'Asti. Aglianico from outside of Naples, or Lagrein from the Alto Adige. Whatever it is...make sure you're drinking something Italian with this and that it's red and big.

A Rule

It's never been a better time to be a wine consumer. Right now you will start to see deals like you've never seen before. You'll walk in to shops and see some wines advertised at 50% off. You'll enter restaurants on off nights and maybe see the same too (for the winelist)!? But, this doesn't mean buy away and expect the wine to taste the way you want it. Case in point...

I am a lover of Cornas. Cornas is a brash little village in the Southern section of the Northern Rhone that produces only Syrah grown on hillsides of granite. When young, the wines are rugged, tough, and intensely minerally. And yet the wines age for a few years and you receive grace but with interesting nooks so to speak. So here I am in a wine shop and there is a Cornas formally $56bt, now being marked down to $20bt. WOW! Yes, head turning. I turned the label around to check the quality of the importer: Weygandt-Metzler, an excellent importer. 1999- an excellent year in the Northern Rhone. OK, what the heck and bought two. I didn't know the wine, but I knew that Weygandt's wines usually had a dark earthy mid-core, the vintage was fantastic, and it was from a village I loved.

Well, turns out the wine was what I would call a Parker wine- big fruit and lots of oak- almost Californian when young. It was interesting, and I find myself muscling threw the first bottle. It's just too much. Too much caramel and coffee from the oak. Too much gloppiness from the over extraction. Too much. And there troubles the style of the high flying 90+pt styled wines- great to taste, bad to drink. Now, the wine's not horrible and I'm thrifty so I'm going back to this bottle trying to find some light, but I wouldn't have pulled it had I known it was a "Parker" style.

And therein lies my point. If you are knew to the wine game- cellaring wines or buying older wines. Against what may seem to be safe judgment throw your vintage charts away, don't look at your ratings when you buy wine, and definitely, definitely know the great classical producers in the regions you are buying. If the wine I bought was a Clape, Allemande, Michel, or Paris I would have been in good hands (and I would have bought a case at that price..'cause that price doesn't exist with those wines). I would have tasted the fruit taken to another place with age- and not the plastic surgery that was done during birth to help win a tasting and sell more wine.

I'm hopeful for my last bottle of this Cornas. I'm going to simply forget about it and hopefully it will evolve past it's medical woes and spring a new life (with wine you never know?). But, I will always buy with my new rule in mind: If cellaring or buying older wine- buy the traditionalists.

Lobsta!

A little hint...go to the best fish shop you know off and ask them if they have any cooked lobster shells. I've found that if you do, you will often find that the shop hasn't even thought about a market for them and thus will sell them to you for under $5 a pound!

Then, go and get a kick butt recipe for lobster bisque and make it with the shells. See- luxury can still exist in challenging times- you just have to think outside of the box.

I was given some lobsters (thank you Noelle!) and enjoyed a weekend of lobster. Saturday night was classic steamed lobster with beer and butter. Tonight was lobster bisque. Wifey was very happy.

And even wifey added that the bottle of Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 2006 was unbelievable with the bisque! "F-G" is a grower I respresent. They are excellent and make fantastic wines. If you can't find them (or for some ood reason don't like the wines), make sure you source good, "grower" Chassagne or top grower white Burgundy.

Of note: the recipe came from Ed Brown's The Modern Seafood Cookbook.

Building the cellar

I am a fan of reading the old timer's chronicles about life in the wine business. Kermit. Rosenthal. Both have written great books about the way it was back then. The availability and pricing way back then of some of the wines that we now covet is astounding. But, more importantly is reading about that sense of discovery- it's like wine treasure hunting.

I went down into my cellar last night to grab a bottle of Bourgogne Rouge for dinner, and my mind turned to investment. Where does one invest now if you want to buy these treasures before they are discovered (ie, priced out of reach)?

Here's where I'm headed...

Loire Cabernet Franc...The best single vineyard Chinons and Bourgeuils are like $50bt retail- the best of them. Even with the currency situation, these wines are still screaming deals relative to their Right Bank Bordeaux cousins. I'm sticking to the classics: Joguet, Baudry, Breton, and Clos Roche Blanche.

Loire whites...I should write that I am actively buying white Burgundy (and red), but I'm picking and chosing my battles there. It is a place I simply can't afford overall. But, like the reds above, I can afford white Loires. The best Chenins (minus Joly's wines) are still incredibly underpriced and equally as impressive as great white Burgs. I like Closel, Pepiere, Cotat, Chidaine, and Huet.

Cornas...I think it's always been the super sleeper in the Rhone. Everyone knows of Auguste Clape and his work, and those wines are amazing. Many say Thierry Allemand is truly the guy down in Cornas. I like both, but can't afford both. Currently I'm a huge fan of Paris. I do represent him, but I love the purity in the tannins, and the guy can bring out rock in a wine like no one's business.

Chablis...There might be no better value on the planet except for Chablis. Vieilles Vignes bottlings and Premier Crus are some of best deals out there. I bought wine from 2006 for my son, and I plan on buying more as I go. You just drink in the value- and the wines only get better with time.

Single Vineyard Barbera...With all the hype about 2004, I feel like I'm on the sidelines in Piedmont this year. No cashola for the vinos. Maybe some Produttori de Barbarescos? But, single vineyard Barberas...There's value there I tell you. And if you're patient and let them age...they drink as good, if not better, than most Barolo.

Chianti...I love Chianti. I think to love it you have to be patient enough to let it age and take on that golden hue. With some time the wine starts to show rounder, softer notes and the nose explodes with all types of other things. Huge fan of Felsina, Cacchiano, and Monsanto.

Germany....2007, the year of Germany. Not to say the past couple of years should be skipped. The best producers make great wine in every year. And I plan on buying Von Volxem, Busch, Knebel, Donnehoff, Christoffel, Prum, and a number of others in this country.

Bandol...Kermit won me with Tempier. I love the wines. I hate the prices, but I bite for a couple of bottles here and there. Pradeaux peeks my interest. And I'm still looking for my next great Tempier-like producer. Maybe here is where the new treasure hunt begins?

Sloppiness

Sometimes simplicity is best.

Cheap takeout pizza.

Paper plates.

Grease all over the table and eating handfulls of cheese that have fallen off the front corners of slices.

Paper towels everywhere.

And a bottle of 3 day old F Rinaldi Dolcetto Roussot 2007.

Was freakin delicious.

Fortune Teller?

Lehman Bros crashes and burns.

Merrill gets swooped up for a paultry $50Bil.

And Amazon.com enters the wine retail biz.

There's a lot happening in the world right now. I don't necessarily think the sky is falling. I think things are shaking out; things are settling- righting themselves, if you will. And here's what I foresee in the wine business...

Very much like the hardware store business, the future of the wine shop will be divided into 2 categories- the super store, and the small custom boutique. Retail shops will either evolve into one or the other, or will get bought out, or will eventually get culled out of the market.

The super shops- the Costcos, Total Wines, Amazon.coms of the world will treat wine like a product, a commodity, in which it will purely be about price and what they will advertise as an infinite amount of availability. This will serve a purpose. For those looking for the major national brands- the Gallos, the Kendall-Jacksons, the Rodney-Strongs. This will now be your best option at the lowest price. And for imports, this business will include Ruffino, Yellow Tail, Jadot, DuBeouf, Lafite, and by the way...all the classified growths of Bordeaux..plus all the major Champagne houses. All gone to the lowest bidder online at these super stores.

Let me be upfront. As much as these brands, these wines, are important in the business of buying and selling wines..I'm not interested in them. Been there, done that. Not fun.

The rest of the wine made in the world- the little projects that are (hopefully) slaved over by artisans and wine companies that truly care about their product will find homes in these large shops as well. Some anyway. And those that do- will (for the most part) get lost in these shops and sit on shelves. (By the way, this will represent a hugely strategic buying opportunity for consumers that know their stuff and can find really good wines at great closeout prices because the super stores don't have the marketing to push these wines through). But, getting back to task, the rest of all of these little wine projects will be sold by equally truly passionate people in small family run shops. Just like it's always been done. And here- I foresee the need for these shops to specialize in an area of wine in order to stand out and define themselves as destination wine shops. For example, a shop that sells all, but specializes in the small production wines of Northern California, or Barolo, or Burgundy, or Tuscany. You get my point.

All in all, the two will co-exist with one simply not ever able to do the other's job and its own. The definer will be service and marketing. And that will be the future of the business of wine.

Maybe, I'll be proven wrong. But, this is what I forsee...

In search of bluefish

When you look at the grandeur and the beauty that is the classic French bistro, and you look behind the curtain, you discover the the majesty is all in making something magnificent out of nothing. The French bistro is created out of the use of the egg and the pig because they are the cheapest.

Last night my family had a bluefish cook off. One was cooked en papillote with garden grown peppers. The other dish was baked bluefish with herbs and rosemary potatoes. The fish was caught that day, and it was magnificent. A family member leaned over and said, "You never see this stuff out here." She was right, and it's sad. And so I propose that the restaurants of Long Island start putting bluefish on the menus. Grill it with rosemary. Roast it with sage and tomatoes. Serve it en papillote with heirloom peppers. Take a magnificent raw material and make it grand.

It is cheap. It is indigenous. It is fresh. And is defining of the food that should come from this place.

Just a thought...

Upstate Report Card

I just returned from a week of vacation in upstate New York. Absolutely beautiful place- specifically Lake George which if you're a fan of Caribbean quality swimming water- then you should head there.

I want to highlight two really wonderful establishments if you happen to make you're way up to Northern New York. First is Davidson's Brew Pub in Glens Falls (a small city at the base of the Adirondacks). At first you may walk up and not think much of this local pub. A burger joint that makes a couple of beers. But, trust me- order the sampler. I never got the front of the house guy's name but he made it very clear that these people are deeply passionate about beer. Their smoked Porter was simply twisted. I know, I know...but I just get all giddy when I see passionate craftsmanship like this.

The second place is the Mirror Lake Inn off Mirror Lake in Lake Placid. Solid wine program, but top notch food all around. Moreover they just care. The whole 'estate' was well done, and more importantly it left a lasting impression because although they were an upper tier hotel/spa/restaurant, their price ($275 night+breakfast) was a super value in comparison to the quality and the quality/price against the peer establishments at this level ($500+ night).

Here's where I want to give a big 'thank you' to the folks at home on the South Fork of Long Island, and I also want to question the North Country folks up in upstate NY. Making great food is all about caring. Taking the time to do the little things. Taking the time to make your own stocks and pastas, to source local produce and food goods, and think seasonally regarding your menus. And serving great wine takes zero work at all. It's simply picking the right suppliers, doing a little reading, and trusting those suppliers to send you really great juice. Overall, the North Country gets a 'B' for food, and gets a 'C to C-' for vino.

Hey maybe I went to wrong restaurants, maybe I went to the wrong shops, but pound for pound when you go out to eat (or walk into a shop inthe South Fork) you just eat and drink better. So, thank you- South Fork. And North Country NY, some wine distributors that will instantaneously make your wine programs better:

Rosenthal
Polaner (note: my own company)
Skurnik
Vias
Chadderdon
Pas Mal
Winebow (Kermit Lynch)

Patience please

Be patient with wine. I found myself with three bottles of Pinot Noir last weekend: Hansel Pinot Noir South Slope 2005, Copain Pinot Noir Hacienda Seccoya 2006, and a Varner Pinot Noir Hidden Block 2005. These wines couldn't have been more different. The Hansel was INITIALLY picture perfect Russian River Pinot Noir- just a bursting supple red cherry fruit. It turned heads. The Copain was the dark horse- earthy, almost wild and rustic in it's portrayal of the grape, and the Varner INITIALLY was very light in color, very aromatic and fresh, almost liquid like tannins, etc... Initially I think one would think the Hansel was the best of the three, with Copain, and then the Varner coming out the end. But be patient.

The Hansel didn't get worse over three days, but it faded as it was ought to do. The Copain opened and gained even more power, more tannin, and more dark depth. And the Varner exploded. It was the wine I truly enjoyed drinking, and I made a mental note for myself to start cellaring Varner.

My point is that great wine takes time- not just cellaring time- but time on the table, time going back to it during the week. I can't tell you how many wines I've pulled and been, frankly, unimpressed on day one only to see them magically explode with fantastic quality on day 2, 3, or even 4. Usually (and I say usually), this is the case with the old school wines. It is almost always the case with young Burgundy. I recently bought a couple bottles of a new producer I'm eagerly tracking- Pierre Boisson. His Bourgogne Rouge is awesome, and I have to imagine it is basically coming from his vines in Pommard (the resemblance is too there), and anyway I brought this out to a beach cookout for my wife, sister-in-law, and mother-in-law. The wine was popped and I immediately tasted that the fruit that I knew was there, but hidden deep in the wine. Still, I enjoyed the fresh quality of it. The acid. The tart cherry fruit. I was on the beach, and the wine for me at this moment acted more like a white wine in this profile.

My wife and sister-in-law flat out didn't get it. They tasted only tartness and acid. I knew exactly why. A month before my wife had raved about the same wine- after it had been open for an entire day. Burgundy (and Pinot Noir for that matter) that are made in a traditional (non-spoofulated style) need love. They need air and oxidation when they are young (over time, with cellaring, they receive this and it's actually a no-no to decant older Burgundy lest the wine breaks due to too much air). I see this as the major failing of Burgundy and it's marketers- not truly educating consumers in aeration- and also in not serving the wines at proper temperature (as Burgundy needs a chill).

But, it all goes back to my point- be patient at the table. The flashy wine that's initially poured almost always fades. And almost always, it is the tart, acidic monster that's poured initially that swans and flowers into the wine everyone is raving about by the end of the meal (or sometimes by the end of the week).

The 50 States of COTT

Yes, I know...my apologies. It's been too long. Frankly, up until this evening nothing has really struck me. My meals have been simple grilled meats and fresh vegetables drizzled with olive oil. The wines have been left over samples- good wines, excellent wines, but I haven't had an ear shattering COTT moment, so I figured I'd wait and right when I had something to say. And now I do...

One of the great legacies my wife's grandfather left was a PBS series (and cookbook) entitled Pierre Franey Cooks with his Friends. It's an excellent work. It combines Thomas Keller like photography and philosophy with Marcella Hazan-like down home cooking. And there's the larger themes- the exploration of French individual appelation cultures which always grabbed me. It's personal. And I personally like when authors open up and share their lives with me; it brings me in that much more.

I know many chefs visit this blog here and there, so for those of you who appear on TV, or plan on appearing on TV- I'd love to see a similar series but with American restaurants and American chefs. That's 50 potential episodes. Imagine the unique content! Surely someone's doing something interesting in South Dakota.

Restaurants I'd love to see (that is if you do decide to shoot it):

French Laundry
Montagna
Per Se
Balthazar
Pluckmann Inn
Alan Wong
Alenia
Charlie Trotter's
Le Bec Fin
The Corn Exchange (in South Dakota)
Alain Ducasse
Daniel
Cru
Del Posto
The Modern
Ko
Le Bernardin
etc...
etc..
...and of course a nice stable of my own restaurant clients out here on Long Island...

It's time. America has the culture, the personalities, the truly regional foods- there's countless stories to be told. We need a program to truly bring American food to the masses in an honest way comme Pierre.

HAN(d) me the "SOLO"

Medici Ermete Le Tenute "Solo" Reggiano 2007....$15-$18bt

Google it and buy a bottle. Chill it until it is cold, and drink with pizza. It is a dark red wine from the appelation of Reggiano (Parma-Reggiano cheese, etc...). It is frizzante- meaning it is slightly sparkling, and it has a small amount of residual sugar in it.

My wife hated it. "Agh, this tastes like grape soda!"

I love it. It is totally distinctive and unique. It really does kinda taste like grape soda- wine soda, maybe? But the slightly sweet dark fruit with the sparkling body marries fantastically with salt- salt you find in pizza dough, and salt you find in pamesan-reggiano cheese....wink, wink...

Old rule...if they grow (or are made) together, eat them together....Applies here.

60 degrees please

As many of you may or may not know, I'm all about traditional Beaujolais. Think Kermit's orginal "Gang of Four": LaPierre, Thevaunet, Foillard, and Breton. Now add to that Descombes, Desvignes, Michaud, Roilette, Tete, Trenel, and Brun. There are others, but these are my type of wines. They are wines- not cocktails- and they drink like beautiful earthy floral reds, not jammy banana juice. Enjoyment in them for me also brings up a good point. Temperature.

Wine, for the most part, is served entirely too warm. In just about every cave I've ever been in (and this includes the caves in Napa in July!) it is just about freezing. You are cold. You're lips chatter. You hug yourself while you taste and take notes. Wine likes this environment and wine tastes better in this environment as well.

If you read old Kermit offerings you will often see him refer to dinners at the Peyraud's in the Summer. Imagine that- Southern Provence in July. That's hot. And he would wax poetic about taking a couple bottles of the just finished Tempier vintage and "plunging" them into a bucket of ice. I often think about that. Tempier is the pinnacle of Mourvedre- one of the most hearty, masculine grapes found anywhere in the world and here is a guy making it colder; making it drink even more tannic!

The oddity is that the cold adds a freshness that young masculine reds love. Earthy reds love it as well. And additionally, it is my opinion that the true reason America doesn't understand Burgundy and/or the Loire is that the reds are not drunk at their proper temperature- which is to say 56 degrees (or only 24 degrees above freezing).

So, do this. Go buy a red. Something earthy. Something French. If you want to perfect the test, go buy a very good Cru Beaujolais (not from Dubeouf or Jadot!), open it, and plunge it into a bucket of ice water for 15 minutes. Play with the temperature. There is no right or wrong and remember that each bottle is different- as is always. But, it will bring some of the most new insight into your wine enjoyment; it certainly has for me.

The Importance of Wine Rediscovery

In my practice I see this all of the time. A great producer will come along. They will be discovered by the trade. Then they will be discovered by the consumer base. Demand will drive prices up and and availability out, and from a marketing standpoint, "cult" status is born. If the quality of the wines the producer makes continues to be at a "reference point" level for about 10 years or more this producer will be generally be deemed a classic, reference point producer and at their price points are not important anymore.

I've dealt with this phenomenon for 7 years now as a wine professional, and only yesterday did it hit me personally. I love wine and love to drink it. I usually buy through my company as I love the producers and I get a great deal. But, there are some wines I simply have to have. Domaine Tempier is one of them. I had read a lot about Tempier's rose since I really got into the Kermit thing about 3 years ago, but up until yesterday I could never readily find the Rose. So, it's available yesterday and I buy it- just 1 bottle. It retailed at $42bt.

Now, that's fair. It should be that price considering who makes it and the current currency situation. And I will continue to buy a bottle here, bottle there, but unfortunately for me Tempier Rose has moved out of my strikezone. So, Tempier here and there, but not always.

So, it's time to move on and keep looking- which is part of the fun of wine anyway. Pradeaux is a new "it" wine for me from Bandol. They're not new as a super quality level producer from Bandol, but they're just being very highlighted now as Tempier's prices have risen heavily.

C'est la vie. The next time your favorite imported European wine looks to expensive- it's time to enjoy the process of discovery all over again.

Great white

I'd like to turn your attention to the white wines of the Southern Rhone in France. Quintessential Summer values in my opinion. Sure we can talk about Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc, but let's not. The super value exists in the excellent Cotes du Rhone Blancs, the Cairanne Blancs, Rasteau Blancs, Lirac Blancs, etc...Here you typically see blends of Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier, Bouboulenc, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, and/or Clairette. Sometimes a producer tosses additional grapes like Picpoul. The wines (for me) always sing with this white peach and apricot- usually in a dried form. And there's usually a slight peraffin or waxy note that is there; not always, but typically. Under all of this, you usually sees a really strong minerality as well- if the wines are well made.

These wines are fantastic for Summer, specifically with one of my favorite Summer dishes: ratatouille. I'm still using canned tomatoes, but in two weeks my perfect ratatouille will be ready. I eat it hot or cold, but prefer cold with lots of chopped fresh basil in it. And I like it accompanied by a simple piece of herbed sauteed flounder or bass, a good hunk of baguette for mopping.

Some producers to note in value white Southern Rhones:

Janasse Cotes du Rhone
Oratoire St Martin Cairanne Reserve des Seigneurs Blanc
Lafond Lirac Blanc
Trignon Sablet Blanc
Beaucastel Coudoulet de Beaucastel Cotes du Rhones Blanc
Remejeanne Cotes du Rhones Blanc Les Arbousiers
Sainte Cosme Cotes du Rhone Blanc

An short appeal: Oregano

Just a quick comment- use orgeano (fresh if you can). What a great herb. It screams Mediterranean. Almost immediately you think tomatoes, olive oil, light chesses, flat breads, saffron, grains like couscous, etc...You think white houses against a bright blue sea. And you are away in Greece.

And in wine it defines the reason that many of the Italian and Grecian whites are of the light, dry, and crisp category. Santorini, Fiano, Falanghina...they all want oregano.

Just a thought- but make sure to incorporate more oregano into your meals- you will travel to the Mediterranean very fast if you do.

Sticky food

It's hot. Sticky hot. New Orleans hot. Like want to drink Mint Juleps hot and talk slow hot.

So, for the heat- a very cooling salad:

Cut up a bunch of watermelon. Slice up some strawberries. Pick a bunch of fresh mint. Add all to a bowl. Add coarse salt and white pepper. Add a couple of glugs of really good olive oil and a medium sized dash of excellent balsamic vinaigre. Serve immediately.

VINO: Well, it's hot and sticky hot. So something crisp and refreshing, but with some good old fashioned Southern sweetness. Actually, I'd recommend New Zealand Riesling from the area of Nelson if you can. If not, an old personal favorite of mine in Australia: Leeuwin, from Margaret River. Grab their Riesling.

BOLDNESS

I've been having an issue with Californian wines for quite some time. Let's face it- they're about the fruit (for the most part). There is terroir, you do taste it here and there, but for the most part it's about purity of the fruit. In my recent trip to California many of the producers talked about harvest and they stressed the "purity of the fruit"- "the balance within the fruit". Many also talked about terroir, but usually this discussion was in reference to the quality of fruit that could come from that terroir.

So, fruit juice- what do you eat with fruit juice? While on that trip, there were many great meals. Grilled lamb chops, tandorri chicken, salads, cheeses, breads, pastas, etc...But it was a little precursor dish that continues to haunt my attention- hot, chicken tacos with mango/habanero sauce. I remember the dish, but not until last evening did it really sink in.

Last evening I went out to a very authentic Mexican joint in town. Really honest, home cooked food (they serve tongue tacos). And I was watching these guys preparing this food, and was just struck by the deep level of food culture that Central and South America has. (As a country, I just think we're seeing the tip of the iceberg now regarding our own unique food culture.) But, you saw these Latin Americans working and there was love being shown to the food. And then it hit me that Californian wines are made for Central and South American (and Cali) food. Tacos, Burritos, Empanadas, Rice and beans...spice, heat, bold flavors.

Sure there are some earthy, very close to being European styled wines coming out of CA. But, I wish for Cali that it would solely embrace it's cuisine and the cuisine of the South and just be BIG.

The wife's sauce

My great go-to sauce has always been the classic French Dijon Vinaigrette. The reason is because my wife and son will eat anything I put it on. Simple stuff, but like all French cooking the beauty in it is not in the ingredients, but rather the technique. I make mine heavy- or creamy.

French Vinaigrette

scoop of dijon mustard
a little vinaigre (totaste- not too much)
olive oil (1-2 glubs, a glub is like 2 ounzes)
vegtable oil (1-2 glubs)
sea salt
black pepper
garlic clove (1-2, crushed)
finely chopped herbs

The key to it is to blend the vinaigre ( I like Champagne), mustard, salt, pepper, herbs, and a crushed garlic clove first. Whisk, and beat until creamy. Let it sit and come together for like 5 minutes. Then whisking fast add 1-2 glubs of veggie oil. Whisk until emulsified. Add a 1-2 gluvs of Olive oil. Whisk until emmulsified. The olive oil will thicken the sauce. Take out garlic cloves.

Pour into salad. Mix salad. Then drain salad (very important) and plate. You never want too much vinaigrette- just the hint of it.

Wine: Champagne or sparkling wine, or German Rielsing (Kabinette or Spatlese Trocken or Halb-Trocken).

Littorai

Many apologies for my little exile here. Last week was spent in California, specifically in Napa and Sonoma seeing producers I represent.

Many things happening in Cali wine these days. Overall, there's definitely a grassroots shift back to the old school California wine scene: less oak, normal levels of alcohol, a search for true terroir, an investment in organic and bio-dynamic farming, and basically a truly sincerre effort to find balance in their wines. To be more frank, let's put it this way, at night after tasting, most producers would drink European wine rather than their own. Telling of the future.

There was one stop that I can't stop thinking about: Littorai.

Littorai is the project of a guy named Ted Lemon. I call Lemon the Yoda of the Cali wine scene as he's basically been there and done that in every aspect of wine production. He's made micro-production cuvees, and then he's consulted for the Franciscan Group. In the end he and his wife started this little winery called Littorai focusing on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the true Sonoma Coast (basically from "on the Pacific Ocean"). To say he works in a Burgundian style is really not enough. Ted managed Domaine Roulot (the famous Meursault producer) in the early 1980s- in fact he was the first American ever to manage a Burgundian estate. And today, I would easily put the wines of Littorai up against any top white Burgundies.

Ted's 2006s were stunning, but I expected that. What was revolutionary was his belief and practice of bio-dynamic farming. There's a lot of mumbo-jumbo going around bio-dynamic farming, and even I was skeptical of it prior to my visit with Ted. Harvesting and racking according to moon cycles. Burying a cow's horn filled with cow dung in your soil. And spraying animal's skins on your vineyard. Huh!? What!? You see what I mean?

As Ted put it, the premise is to return the soil (not the vines!) to a healthy natural state. The founder of bio-dynamics is a guy named Rudolph Steiner and Steiner writes about the ancient method of farming where the land co-existed in both a physical and spiritual world- in perfect harmony. So, yes, cow horns filled with year old cow manure-based compost are burried in the vineyard as the cow has the most advanced digestion system on the planet and this would spiritually invigorate the soil. Teas and sprays (that do have hamster skins in them) are employed. The hamster skins are the more intense part of the sprays, but they are there (again) to tell the spiritual animal pest world that they are not wanted in the vineyard. Moon cycle work is done. This makes the most sense, as Ted put it, "Two major cycles have been decided by the moon and control our lives: tides and the feminine cycle- both 28 days." True, true.

Is this all a bunch of dogma? Well, no. Ted's vineyards were glowing alive- just bursting with life. Moreover, the energy and vibe of his sites was very calm and positive, in comparison to the 20+ other producers I saw. The problem is that bio-dynamics is not quantifiable. You have to trust. But it makes a lot of sense. It's a return to the old natural way of farming when things were done on natural cycles, organically, and with respect for all of the elements that belonged to the site.

Makes an interesting question- is the ancient way the future?

My dear friend and mentor: Betty Franey

The greatest pure COTT moments happen with important family members.

I will never forget standing over my kitchen sink next to my father when I was like 13-14. He had driven me home (probably from football practice). It was August. And he had stopped by a local farm stand and picked up these huge bursting ripe tomatoes. We went home. He took out a knife. Sliced two tomatoes in half, shook some salt then pepper over each open half, gave one to me, and then we gorged on them while leaning over the sink. The juices dripped down my mouth and chin, and I'll never forget the explosion of pure flavor that I tasted in those tomato halves. It would only have been mildly important if he wasn't there showing me this.

I'll also never forget that first weekend at my then girlfriend's (now wife's) grandmother's home in East Hampton. A lasagna that I had to have three helpings of. It was too good. The next night, a perfectly roasted chicken that was too die for. Perfectly caramelized outside. Perfectly succulent inside. And seasoning that was exquisite. The wine was Macon. It was pure, steely, apples..and it was perfect. And it was this moment that solidified my tract toward the food and wine business.

It's funny how I hear stories regarding Culture of the Table Moments, and the company is maybe sometimes played out in the background- with the food and wine taking center stage. I think the best COTT moments require the opposite. It is the people at the table, the people who cook with you, the people who share that glass with you that truly make the moment. Without them there is no sharing, no giving...and the moment is somehow less.

I lost a dear friend and family member yesterday. She was a mentor. She was a standard bearer for excellence in all things- both in and out of the kitchen. Looking back on this whole Culture of the Table philosophy I embrace, well, she discovered and practice it long before me. I will miss her very much and will take comfort that she will be with me in spirit for every meal, for every glass, and for every setting of the table.

And I will never forget her roast chicken.

First real meal back

I'm past the mid-way point on this cleanse- Day 6 today- and done by Wednesday.It's affected the way I look at food. I still crave my vino, bread, cheese, meat, fish, etc...but I find myself thinking about getting back to normal eating and not just wanting to devour all of those things immediately. It's kind of like this- if you were forced to clean up your room after you had lived messy so long, and maintain it clean for a decent period of time...well...you tend to come like the new benefits of it being clean, and you're not so eager to mess it up right away.

That said, I can't wait for the rigidity of the cleanse way of life to end. Some free thinking on my first meal back. This Thursday will be the day...And I think it will be chicken, rice, and a lot of vegetables. Nothing crazy- probably just marinated grilled chicken breasts. And I will have wine...probably a sample that's open from the day (thinking ahead probably a Macon or something). And bread and cheese (again a couple slices of baguette and some slices of parmesan or comte or what's available).

A new me? No. And Yes. Still a gourmand. Still deeply a passionate eater and practicer of The Culture of the Table. Now, just doing it with respect to my human bio-dynamics...

(And although it's not a point of all of this, and not my intention, in 6 days I've lost 15lbs.)

Drinking the other side of the street in white Burgundy

In speaking with a client this week regarding his in-store wine sales he pointed out that he's now selling white Burgundy. Fantastic! This is great stuuf. Understand that my excitement comes from the fact that I love Burgundy.

I can't afford it though- the best villages and the best vineyards anyway. What I can afford and do drink are the best wines from the towns next store. It's a lot like being a first time home buyer. Maybe you can't afford the super premium street, so you constantly look for the up-and-coming block. Same with me with regards to Burgundy.

So, moving back to white Burgundy, I have three villages that you should look to.

1. Auxey-Duresses...This is a town that borders Meursault to the North. As I get more and more into Meursault- and am able to taste the top producers (Roulot, Fichet, Coche-Drury, Lafon, etc...), I'm also discovering that almost all of these producers have vineyard holdings in Auxey-Duresses as well. Specifically Les Reugne vineyard if you can get it- as it's a sweet spot for Auxey. I find the wines a little more nervous than Meursault. A little more high-toned on the fruit. More citrus enters. More green apple. But, in the hands of a great producer like Fichet these wines drink just a notch down from their Meursault's and are priced at a huge discount against the Meursault's as well.

2. St Aubin...This town sits in a sleep little valley just off to the West between the areas of Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet. For me there is one producer- Lamy. (Note: I do represent Lamy professionally.) Hubert & Olivier Lamy make wines that, frankly, blow away most standard Chassagne and Puligny, and some premier cru quality Chassagne and Puligny as well. Specifically, buy their St Aubin En Remilly vineyard as it sits right next to the Grand Cru Batard-Montrachet, but is priced at 1/10 the price. And even his basic St Aubin is fantastic. Highly recommended.

3. St Romain...Another just outside of Meursault town. I've found the wines to be a little funkier here. A little more "pure hay", if you will. Mushrooms and earth pop up a little more. They are, well, Burgundian. Two producers worth noting here are Henri Boillot and Alan Gras. Gras especially, as he's known as pretty much THE producer from St Romain. And again, the wines are ridiculously cheap when you start comparing the prices against THE BEST wines from the big three: Meursault, Chassagne, and Puligny.

Point is, yes you can still drink very very well at a reasonable price in Burgundy. You just need to expand your geography and make sure you're choosing only the best producers.

Human Bio-dynamics

So, I'm now on Day 3 of this Ayurvedic Cleanse and from a food standpoint I've discovered juicing. Juicing is cool.

This cleanse requires a breakfast of freshly prepared juices (usually in a combination of fruit and vegetables, and herbs). I've never done this before, but the flavor that comes off of carrot, juiced from scratch, or even cucumber, is amazing. It's very alive- very pure.

I going to try making some cold soups this way with a base of light spices and finishing with various oils and finely chopped herbs.

Other than that, I have to say that the food is edible, it sustains you, it certainly makes you feel healthy...but I'm not loving it. I'm now starting to understand that this cleanse- this diet- is the equivalent of farming your body bio-dynamically. From a agricultural standpoint I completely believe in that. Wines made when bio-dynamic farming is employed (for me) taste more alive- more pure- more "just' made. They are completely natural.

And here, this cleanse, it makes your health feel in very much that same way. But, I'm human, not a vine, not a plant, and I like my eggs, dairy, cheese, fat, meat, and fish...And I've got 7 days to go. I don't forsee myself gorging on those product categories come day 11, but damn I can't wait.

Master Cleanse

So, tomorrow and for the next 10 days I will be participating in an ayurvedic cleanse. Again, keeping it short and sweet I can't drink alcohol, caffeine, eat dairy, protein, and for the most part carbohydrates (exception being millet and quinoa).

I can use pretty much any vegetable and herb you can think of (but no tomatoes). I can use fruit- and use dried fruits like raisins, dates, and cranberries. I can use walnuts and almonds. I can use olive oil (but not to sautee in, but to finish, yes). I can use lemon and avocado like it's going out of style. Spices - especially spices with heat (Cayenne, curry, Chile powder) I can use as much as I want. I can use salt and pepper. And as it's a vegetable I can use garlic.

It's like an LSAT question, right? Well, chefs, home chefs, I'm tossing this out to you. What's the best dish you have in your arsenal within those boundaries?

I'm all ears.

One of my bibles

It's probably about time that I gave 'props' to one of my bibles...

Setting The Table, by Danny Meyer, is a reference-able work for me. I read it constantly- always going back to sections for insight into business, creative ideas, and general keys to success. It goes without saying that if you haven't gone to Manhattan and eaten at one of Meyer's restaurants- GO!

I've gone several times and have eaten at Union Square, The Modern, Grammercy and Eleven Madison. Each meal was fantastic. But, what always shocks me is their level of execution. Meyer believes and preaches a philosophy called Enlightened Hospitality. I'm not going to get into it, but it's the key to their execution at such a high level, at all restaurants, all of the time. I find it amazing.

And it goes without saying that Meyer and his restaurants definitively practice The Culture of the Table.

'Cause it goes with hotdogs...

Did a piece for Plum TV tonight, and they tried to stump me by candidly throwing the question, "So what do you drink with hotdogs."

Champagne.

Why not. Champagne goes with everything. You want to throw down for ribeye and bernaise sauce, then send me a glass of Vintage Rose. Sushi. Champagne. Chinese with a Szechuan hot sauce dish. Definitely Champagne. Italian, maybe a pasta. Well, I take that back. When eating Italy, drink Italy. For me, that's a law.

Buy Champagne. Drink more Champagne. Chefs, push more Champagne with your food. It works. It's delicious and it's serious with food.

My favorite ever: Salon 1985. I'll never forget it. It had this petrol nuttiness that reminded me of great aged White Burgundy. Like the aromatics you get off a really great bottle of Raveaneu. They were basically indescribable, yet glorious.

Regardless, just as I made a passionate appeal for people to eat more arugula. I'm now making a passionate plea for people to start drinking Champagne with food- to treat it like wine.

'Cause it goes with hot dgos.

Just the mustard please...

Most nights I come home 'round 8pm. Sometimes my wife and son are already in bed. My wife is not a cook, and I almost always come home hungry. When am I not game for food?

On hand I always have:

cheese
olives
lettuce
components for a freshly made vinaigrette (oil, vinaigre, mustard, salt and pepper)
baguette

And a wine. Usually it will be whatever I had opened that day that I liked. Lately I'm quite smitten with our Frappato based reds of Southern Sicily. Sicilian Beaujolais I've presented them as. A little chill and they are fantastic- especially in this heat wave.

It's not a legendary COTT moment, but the above components are simple, honest, and pure. They allow me to have a simple, honest meal, and enjoy a good glass or two of excellent wine. I write this as some have chimed in lately with comments that COTT moments have to be elaborate. Not so all the time. A very well made salad can be mind blowing, and in the right setting can be completely part of the Culture of the Table.

COTT requires honesty that's all- not dollars.

Perfect Day

I've started working with an ayurvedic consultant. Not going to get into it as far as details, but basically this is a science/practice/religion based in Buddhism/Yoga/Eastern thought that promotes health through more of a holistic approach. What goes in, and comes out, of your body are paramount, as well as is the concept of balance within the equilibrium of the body's personal health both in mind, body, and spirit. This is going to sound a little lupy, but as I am a huge fan of Star Wars (and personally regard it as the greatest story of our time)...I find this health study very, well, Jedi. So for me- it's cool.

One of the things this consultant has asked me to do is keep a journal. An open ended, free-thought journal, but with the one condition that I define a "perfect day". What a great question! I vividly remember my father sitting me down at age 14 and asking me what I wanted to do with the rest of my life (the right answer was, "Nothing. I want to go outside and continue playing wiffleball"), and I remember being so lost by that question. Actually, still am? Aren't we all- all the time? But, here's a question that doesn't ask that, but asks that. And as a passionate believer in the embrace of the Culture of the Table I'm now going to take the time to think about what I'd eat/drink with my perfect day. Here goes...

Breakfast- coffee and juice (Sorry. Nothing sexy here. Breakfast for me on the perfect day is actually about getting time to read the paper in peace.)

Lunch- I actually almost (didn't have Raveaneu) had it once. A perfect lobster omelet with a fresh side salad of micro greens and champagne vinaigrette. A nice hunk of perfect French baguette and a sampler of farmer cheeses. And a bottle of Raveneau Vaillons- 10 years old or older....or a bottle of Tempier Rose (current vintage)

Dinner- The Balthazar shellfish tower. Lamb tangine with herbed couscous. Selected farmer cheeses. Start of with Salon 1988, then to Tempier Cassabou 1990, Clos Rougeard Poyeux 1990, Chave Hermitage Rouge (mid-80's), and Emidio Pepe Montepulciano 1983. Cheese would see: lots of older Burgs from Jayer-Gilles, Comte Armand, Rousseau, Roumier, and DRC.

Dessert: 1863 Barbeito Malvasia......I'll never forget that wine. Greatest wine I have ever tasted. Inexplicable. Like drinking history.

And...I just realized that a perfect day would be filled with like 50,000 other meals/pairings...so carpe diem people.

When the sun gets hot...

As I move into June, my diet, my appetite, my interests in food switch. Butter takes a finishing role instead of a foundational one. Pasta tastes better cold. Herbs are rarely bought, but scissored. The grill becomes grail and everything from the protein of the day, to the local vegetables, to fruit is marinated in olive oil, salt, and pepper and then promptly transferred for a high sear.

My wine interests change as well. Rose becomes the house wine. But I still love red wine. I want fresh red wine- not vintage stuff (not that I'm passing on a glass of older stuff, but I'm pulling younger reds). And as follows with the diet above, my palate craves hearty reds that match my move toward a Mediterranean diet. The wines from Faugueres, St Chinian, Corbieres, Fitou, Minervois, and the rest of the Southern French belt are all standards.

And now I can say I've found the epi-center in Mediterranean wine: Corsica.

Corsica is an interesting place. I've yet to go, but from family members who have gone they say it is still very much a rebellious brash country and people. Although technically French, the country carries a very Italian-centric culture (at least according to the people I've spoken to about it). Maybe it is in essence the best of both Mediterranean France and Italy?

There are a couple of fantastic producers on the island, and one is Antoine Arena. Arena is arguably the best producer in Corsica, and makes wine in the top AOC (or quality controlled appellation) called Patrimonio. His Carco Vineyard bottling of Nieluccio (or Sangiovese) is a reference point wine for all of Corsica, and for me it is one of the best Mediterranean reds out there.

I had the 2005 Arena Patrimonio Carco Rouge tonight. Imagine Brunello di Montalcino power and grace mixed with the wild, savage sage and brush tones of Southern France. It screams Mediterranean. Depth...just so deep...the wine goes on and on with layers of red fruits popping in and out, and dark herbal notes wrapped around all of this. And still- laser beam fresh! In short, a fantastic wine. Definitely a producer to note, to buy, to cellar, and to drink when the Sun gets hot.

A very desperate need in the world

If I win the lottery tomorrow I am pulling a Diane Keaton in Baby Boom (1987). I swear- there is no good baby / kids food. Chefs, if you read this, please (!) as a parent and fellow foodie I appeal to you- re-vamp your kids menus if they consist of just pasta and chicken fingers. Nothing is more of a downer to a parent. Add real deal meatloaf, cheese and veggie omelets, and if must be pasta- make it pasta primavera!

Or, put on what I served Little Man tonight: savory crepes.

Everyone thinks of crepes as a Parisian dessert, but there is an entirely different category to the medium where you can add savory fillings. Tonight I served the crepe with asparagus and sauteed mushrooms and cheese- lots of Parmesan. Drizzled some truffle oil and it was golden. Cheese is the key with these non-pasta, non fried foods. It reels the kid in and gets him chomping.

I swear. If I get my 50 million I'm going to buy a small warehouse, open long term contracts with local growers (and Southern growers in warm weather states who work organically and sustainably), install a high powered catering level kitchen, hire my Mom (books) and 3 employees, buy a shitload of small bottles, buy a ton of labels, fill out the necessary FDA forms, and open Troy's Baby Food.

There 's no competition. And a huge, country wide need.

If you are hugely capitalized and can move now, feel free to trump me.

On a side note:

Tonight's wine: Owen Roe Cabernet Franc Slide Mountain Vineyard 2005...If I told you this was a modernist Chinon producer in a hot vintage like 2005 you would probably completely agree. Almost no perceptible trace of West Coast super fruit. Alcohol is totally integrated and the fruit is that classic Cab Franc wild black black raspberry. Some bramble and blackberry as well. Bursting fruit, but all within the guise of a very woodsy, very Chinon, style. Recommended.

Vote: ARUGULA

I am making a passionate plea for more folks to embrace arugula. It is such the quintessential Italian green. Toss it with very good olive oil and lemon juice, as a salad. Layer it on pizza. Throw it into a beautiful pasta of pancetta, olive oil, lemon juice, and parmesan. It is an ingredient that speaks immediately of all things Italian. And it adds a spice and heat which makes you think.

And of course, it deserves rose. My current Italian love........Muri Gries Lagrein Rosato 2007...minerally and driven by rock. Good with spicey green things as well...

Wine of the Month: 1959 Richebourg

My uncle-in-law just got married. It was a beautiful ceremony and the wedding party enjoyed 2002 Roumier Clos de la Bussiere and '00 Fevre Chablis Bougros Grand Cru amongst other wines.

But the "Men's Dinner" on Friday night was also something to remember. A legendary lobster bisque made by Hampton's wine professional/chef Peter Hoepfner was to die for, and lamb chops with a garlic-breadcrumb crust were legendary, along with many other treats.

Wines:
1995 Pierre Moncuit Blanc de Blanc Mag
1990 Niellon Chassagne Champs Gains 1er Cru
1999 Raveneau Chablis Chapelot 1er Cru
1999 Raveneau Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru
1982 Dom Leroy Beaune Cuvee Clos des Avaux
1985 Jadot Beaue Cuvee Dames Hostpitaliers
1993 Chapelle Santenay Gravieres 1er Cru
1986 Chapelle Santenay Gravieres 1er Cru
1996 Arnoux Nuits St George Les Poisets 1er Cru
1997 Gaunoux Pommard Grands Epenots 1er Cru
1990 Pierre Bouree Mazys-Chambertin Grand Cru
1993 Trapet Chambertin Grand Cru
1995 Louis Remy Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
2001 Francois Parent Romanee St Vivant Grand Cru
2001 A.F. Gros Pommard 1er Cru (forget vineyard)
1969 DRC Richebourg Grand Cru
1959 DRC Richebourg Grand Cru
1999 Cht Y'Quem

Wine of the night: '59 Richebourg (unavailable)

Not very far behind: 1993 Trapet Chambertin (Available $119bt retail)

Surprise in the mix: 1990 Niellon...as complex as the '59 Richebourg (but white), and 1999 Raveneau Chapelot (like pure white Alba truffle)

Lesson: Have the patience to forget about great Burgundy producers (regardless of what the vintage is panned for)...

God is in the details

There is a widely published endilible link between music and fashion, and I think there is also an endilible link between fashion, design, music, and food and wine.

The place matters. The setting matters. The aura- the music- it matters. I think back to my truly profound dining experiences and there was a soundtrack that raised the dining level to profound. I remember the flowers, the lighting, the feeling of energy in the room...even if it was just The Modern for a Sunday lunch (one of my great recent dining experiences).

When I grew up my father would play LPs of Bach, Brahms, Handel, etc...during dinner and I truly believe this grounded me in the appreciation of dining (even though I'm sure he never intended for this).

For me, I will always return to classic Baroque for dinner. It's timeless, and per above has a very important emotional connection for me with the table. But, I love my blues. I love my jazz- my Coltrane and Davis. And here, while writing this I find myself listening to live Coldplay...and seeing this being an excellent soundtrack to a glass of rose at The Modern bar.

Trump's Trump. But he once remarked, "God is in the details." In that he is spot on.

Essential Reading

I put out an offer to my client's this morning entitled "Sauce Gribiche". I took the recipe from my wife's Grandfether's book, The Seafood Cookbook. I never met Pierre Franey, but he continues to be a heavy inspiration for me in regards to COTT moments and what I consider to be quality in food.

His resume is legendary. His work at the NY Times has anchored that paper as the country's foodie newspaper even to this day. And many people don't know that he has written like 10+ books; all excellent. But I have 3 which I consider absolutely necessary:



60 Minute Gourmet
http://www.amazon.com/New-York-Times-60-Minute-Gourmet/dp/0812933028/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1211943775&sr=8-4

The Seafood Cookbook
http://www.amazon.com/Seafood-Cookbook-Pierre-Franey/dp/0812916042/ref=pd_bbs_sr_8?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1211943683&sr=8-8

Cuisine Rapide
http://www.amazon.com/Cuisine-Rapide-Pierre-Franey/dp/0812917464/ref=pd_bbs_sr_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1211943683&sr=8-2


Especially Cuisine Rapide...some of the best incredibly simple recipes you will find anywhere.

My apologies for passing on the past couple of days...

Obviously a big holiday weekend, and many wines flowed with many dishes being served. Everything from 1983 Chateau Certan...which is drinking right now (and I'm not so sure about how much later, so pop the corks on your '83 Certan's if you got 'em)...to simple New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc...to house Gruner Veltliner.

We missed the rose boat...just the way the weekend went down, but it got me thinking about what I would serve to guests. It's a timeless question that every wine shop owner gets every Summer...."I'm having a party. I'm serving to varied guests of wine knowledge and/or passion, and I have a budget. What should I serve?"

Such a wide open question, so many possibilities, but mid-Saturday I oddly enough found myself at that exact party. And I started thinking and wondering. Here's what I would have advised for you:

Summer Dinner / Luncheon party

Rose (under $15 retail) from Europe. Keep it lean, mean, and offer something different. (ie, Cotes du Rhone Rose, Rose of Nebbiolo from Italy, Rose from Burgundy, etc...)

White...Anjou, Savennieres, or a very good Muscadet. If it's Italian, be very chosey on the crisp and white thing...maybe a very interesting Falanghina?

Fun, cool option: Chilled small production Beaujolais. It's a foodie classic. Chilled. Seriously.

Red: Fitou, Corbieres, or Faugeres...think grilled foods, heat, Summer, sea-based peppery reds, Mediterannean, etc...

These wines (and their prices- even in today's economic climate) have never failed me.

A Cru Ranking of California Vineyards

Over the past couple of years, as my study and profession of wine continued to move along, I have been under the notion that someone should formally write down and publish the "Cru Vineyards of California". Bordeaux has a published list. Burgundy has a published list. Alsace. Germany. Chavignol. California is definitely old enough that unique, singular, and "special" vineyards- special places for that matter- should be recognized as having superior terroir. It's a project I think I will start...now.

Grand Cru
ToKalon Vineyard, Napa
James Berry Vineyard, Paso Robles
Charles Heintz Vineyard, Sonoma Coast
Bien Nacido Vineyard, Santa Barbara
Melville Vineyard, Santa Barbara
Hudson Vineyard, Napa
Marcassin Vineyard, Napa
Black Sears Vineyard, Napa
Monte Bello Vineyard, Santa Cruz Mountains
Mount Carmel Vineyard, Santa Barbara
Clos Pepe Vineyard, Santa Barbara
Dutton Ranch Vineyard, Sonoma

Premier Cru
Griffin's Lair Vineyard, Sonoma Coast
Savoy Vineyard, Sonoma Coast
Spring Ridge Mountain Vineyard, Santa Cruz
Kiser Vineyard, Anderson Valley

And I'm already lost. Well, a start. I welcome your input. Hit the "0 Comments" button below and let me know what I've missed.
Seasmoke Vineyard, Santa Barbara

How to make Loire Valley Cab Franc work

I never understood the importance of the Loire until now.

The wines are not easy; they demand a conversation, and for that reason simply can't be cocktail wines. And having visited through a slew of the top producers last July I came away a little confused. I felt like I missed something. Until tonight.

The Cabernet Franc that grows in the Loire produces meaty wines. They are often defined by a certain vegetal quality and green pepper notes. They are intensely minerally and wrought with terroir, and as I said above there's so much hitting your palate that you simply aren't allowed to gulp and swallow.

There's fruit too. There's actually tons of fruit- for me always defined by some sort of raspberry profile, usually black raspberry.

But tonight I had some Loire reds hanging out and I made a simpled marinated grilled chicken breast (in chipolte sauce). And the wines were perfect. Powerful enough to stand up to the spice. Earthy enough to not overwhelm the chicken meat. And the vegetal thing brought it all together with the little tiny pieces of blackened meat.

If you haven't tried them, go by yourself a Chinon, or a Touraine Cabernet, or a Saumur Champigny Rouge, or a Bourgeuil. Chill it down a little. Open the grill and sear some meat. You will find a delicious combination.

Kermit

It's been a long day, and a long week- and it's only Wednesday.

Overall, as the wine biz has tightened and become more competitive due to the currency and consumers tightening their own wallets, I find myself in need of inspiration. Why sell this stuff? After all, it's only fermented grape juice...why ask consumers to pay more than 2 buck chuck?

Than I go back to Kermit. Kermit Lynch is one of the old school super great wine importers. And his two books, Adventures on the Wine Route and Inspiring Thirst are living testaments to the ability of wine to create a personal culture of the table which celebrates life, love, people, experiences, and of course- food. For me, his writings make it more than acceptable to spend over $20bt on a single bottle of wine.

Go to Amazon...buy some used copies. Keep them tableside.

You will be inspired.

Monday Night Special

I just bought a house. It's my first house. Right now, for me, it's expensive (although everyone keeps telling me that it all oddly works out.) So yes, like any freaked person about their personal finances I'm cutting back. Luckily for me my work's definitely increased, so fortunately COTT moments are demanding of much shorter preparations than I would normally like. That's OK. I can have a COTT on a budget and 20 minutes.

Pasta and sauce. It's cheap. It's pre-made. It can be dressed up and elegant. After experimenting with several sauces I've actually come to like Barilla's the best. They seem to add a little sugar to enrich the tomatoes and it does kind of make the sauce taste a little fresher. Chop some parseley- throw it in there. Drizzle some very good olive oil over it. Large chunks of freshly ground black pepper. And a lot of very good grated Parmigiana.

Wine: Dolcetto. Dolcetto is like the pasta and sauce of Italian wine. You know it. You know it's good. It can be cheesy and made to be Merlot-like. But good producers make very interesting examples: DeForville, Roagna, Borgogno, Boglietti Tiglieneri, Rinaldi, Mascarello, Luigi Enuadi, etc...

Consider it...on a Monday night.