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Sunday, October 5, 2008

A Rule

It's never been a better time to be a wine consumer. Right now you will start to see deals like you've never seen before. You'll walk in to shops and see some wines advertised at 50% off. You'll enter restaurants on off nights and maybe see the same too (for the winelist)!? But, this doesn't mean buy away and expect the wine to taste the way you want it. Case in point...

I am a lover of Cornas. Cornas is a brash little village in the Southern section of the Northern Rhone that produces only Syrah grown on hillsides of granite. When young, the wines are rugged, tough, and intensely minerally. And yet the wines age for a few years and you receive grace but with interesting nooks so to speak. So here I am in a wine shop and there is a Cornas formally $56bt, now being marked down to $20bt. WOW! Yes, head turning. I turned the label around to check the quality of the importer: Weygandt-Metzler, an excellent importer. 1999- an excellent year in the Northern Rhone. OK, what the heck and bought two. I didn't know the wine, but I knew that Weygandt's wines usually had a dark earthy mid-core, the vintage was fantastic, and it was from a village I loved.

Well, turns out the wine was what I would call a Parker wine- big fruit and lots of oak- almost Californian when young. It was interesting, and I find myself muscling threw the first bottle. It's just too much. Too much caramel and coffee from the oak. Too much gloppiness from the over extraction. Too much. And there troubles the style of the high flying 90+pt styled wines- great to taste, bad to drink. Now, the wine's not horrible and I'm thrifty so I'm going back to this bottle trying to find some light, but I wouldn't have pulled it had I known it was a "Parker" style.

And therein lies my point. If you are knew to the wine game- cellaring wines or buying older wines. Against what may seem to be safe judgment throw your vintage charts away, don't look at your ratings when you buy wine, and definitely, definitely know the great classical producers in the regions you are buying. If the wine I bought was a Clape, Allemande, Michel, or Paris I would have been in good hands (and I would have bought a case at that price..'cause that price doesn't exist with those wines). I would have tasted the fruit taken to another place with age- and not the plastic surgery that was done during birth to help win a tasting and sell more wine.

I'm hopeful for my last bottle of this Cornas. I'm going to simply forget about it and hopefully it will evolve past it's medical woes and spring a new life (with wine you never know?). But, I will always buy with my new rule in mind: If cellaring or buying older wine- buy the traditionalists.

1 comment:

Jared said...

Christian,

Autumn just forwarded me your blog. Wow, this is great man, I'm reading the WHOLE thing! Good job, please keep em coming.

Jared