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Wednesday, November 26, 2008

Reduction


The more and more I study cooking technique and theory, the more I find myself understanding that great really soulfull food comes from a slow steady reduction. Pierre Franey's recipes are based on it. Marcella Hazan's recipes are based on it. Keller's recipes are based on it.

The other night I prepared a simple roasted chicken. I roasted the chicken, and upon done-ness, took the chicken out of the pan, poured off a decent amount of the fat, added some white wine, and then reduced everything until I had a small amount of liquid left. The recution took almost 10 minutes. I swirled in some butter. Carved the chicken and served with rice.

Wifey licked the plate clean- literally- and declared it one of the most magnificent meals she had ever had.

Little Man...usually averse to chicken...cried for thirds!!!

Wow! 2 for 2. I studied my success. I didn't stuff anything in the chicken. Didn't add any stock to the pan while roasting- nor did I add any onions in the pan. And I didn't even baste the bird while cooking. Just a slow dry roast until finished. And then that sauce.

Lesson learned:

Reduction folks. When in doubt- reduce and you will create flavor.

Thursday, November 20, 2008

Bird Day

It's very trendy to recommend fruity wines with the whole Thanksgiving thing. Zinfandel for reds. Riesling for whites. Sure, they work...

But, I would advise a different course for something deeper- earth. The food we eat on Thanksgiving is food from the Earth. Potatoes. Mushrooms. Celery. Bread. Cranberries. Turkey and reduced meat gravvy. Sure you could toss in sweet potatoes, but even these are Earthy food. So, I advocate a match.

For reds, drink Burgundy- specifically wines from the Cote de Nuits. If on a budget drink Haut Cote de Nuits or Marsannay. Of course, great Bourgogne Rouge is always advised. Or, drink really kick ass Cru Beaujolais- La Pierre Morgon, Roilette Fleurie, Michaud Brouilly are all advised. Or, Loire reds. Joguet, Olga Raffault and Baudry Chinons, or Breton Bourgeuils.

For whites- white Burgundy. Specifically- Chablis. Raveneau if you got and can afford it. If not- older Pinson, Fevre, Dauvissant, or Picq. Or, Thevenet....older Thevenet. That said, don' turn down Cote d'Or whites if you can get 'em or can afford them as well....

As you can see I'm steering you into France. Italy's no slouch as well...but more on he red side than white.

Barbera.....specifically...Giacomo Conterno, Mascarello, and/or Trinchero. I'm also a fan of Clerico's Ciabot bottling.

Monday, November 3, 2008

Weight Watchers?

My wife has dragged me back into one of those "we need to lose 15lbs" moments. I'm complaining, but not really. I have been feeling a little sluggish lately and the lure of luxurious food is not as compelling as before because of my heft- so to speak. So, why not?

So, she's joined Weight Watchers, and of course therefore so have I- not by choice, mind you. Now, I've done the Miami Beach Diet. As you've read, I've done an Ayurvedic Cleanse, and now here I am studying the Weight Watchers program.

Greatly reduced portions.

Hugely reduced Carbs.

Hugely reduced fatty proteins.

Massive amounts of veggies and heavy water based fruits (ie- apples).

And wherever possible, buy low fat. And wherever possible, they're recommending that you buy the Weight Watchers brand. Hmmm?

Whatever. The important thing for me (as I know this much- each person's metabolism and body configuration is wildly different), is exercise, heavy veggies, low low sugar, and small portions of everything else. And the one thing Weight Watchers also asks you to do is zero vino....

So, I'm going to do this Weight Watchers thing with my wife- for my wife. But, honestly, I know my body. Run. Eat your veggies- lots of 'em. Tiny portions on everything else. Sugar is your enemy. And watch your snacking. I do this, I bet I lose 10lbs in 2 weeks.

We'll see.