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Saturday, February 14, 2009

Winter can be white...


I would love to ask...why does Alsace not get any love?

You know Alsace- that little strip of land between France and Germany that's been the starting point for countless wars between those two countries over the course of history. And by the way, they also make drop dead wines. Certainly Zind-Humbrecht's stuff is mind blowing, but what about Keuntz-Bas, Dirler, Boxler, and even the large house, Trimbach. And Deiss..how could I forget Deiss. There are so many great artists up there and so many I am simply forgetting to mention.

Alsace is on my mind because I came home last night and had a glass of Grenache with pizza. It was a long day- a salesman's sort of day (250+ miles on the car), and well, I found that I really wasn't satisfied. My mind/soul was searching for something Wintery...but something different than the usual blow down your door red wine.

I wanted aromatics. I wanted acid. I actually didn't want tannins and red wine, but not Burgundy, not chenin. Alsace man.

Think about it. Their cusine is wrapped around bacon, vinegar, root vegetables, and pork. And how many great chefs have come from Alsace- let's start with my man Jean-Georges for starters...

Anyway, show Alsace some love next time you're in a shop or at a restaurant. If you're on a budget, then you will very pleasantly surprised...Excellent Alsace Pinot Blanc / Pinot Gris can be had for $15bt in a shop and/or $35-$40bt on a wine list. And if you plop down another $5 (basically pass on your daily Starbucks concoction) then you can pony up for Zind Humbrecht Rielsing or Pinot Gris for $21-$23bt ($55bt there-on-abouts on a list).

Open your minds friends. Winter can be white...and taste better, cheaper.

Thursday, February 5, 2009

The Onion Correction...?


Times are tough and it brings you home.

I had the most wonderfull conversation with a seasoned chef in January. We talked about the difficulties of the restaurant business- the lack of customers, even regulars being irregular. And I remarked to him that in these times the true chefs come through. It hasn't about how well one can work with fois gras and truffles, it's about what can you do with an onion, with eggs, with root vegetables.

As the winter descends upon me and things become grim I find myself wondering two things:

1. When is what I know as normalcy going to return?

2. Is this really an opportunity?

Is it? Is this the period in my generation where life will make us re-learn how to live around the table. Where maybe this Summer gardening might be a little more important than just a fun hobbie...Where maybe it might be a good idea to start visiting the local farmer to take him up on those placard signs reading, "Farm Fresh Eggs"?

I think it is. Tonight is Thursday, the 5th. Saturday the 7th is my birthday. And I'm going to be cooking for my wife and son on my birthday because that's what I like to do. I found myself looking at two cookbooks for inspiration tonight. The French Laundry Cookbook, and an old book from my wife's grandfather, Pierre Franey. I respect everything that is the Laundry. The pursuit of perfection...how can you not? It is art, really, at that level. And in good times I'd probably try my hand at a couple recipes...maybe pop some high end Burgundy.

But I'm back to my old friend. Eggs. Onions. Root vegetables. Slow cooking. Reductions...Simple cooking...Good thing I know is that even the great restaurants, the haute cusine...it all started with these ingredients as well!

Maybe in the end this recession is more than a financial correction. A cultural correction? A return to a simpler and better time?