Shopping for Arabella

I'm very fortunate with my son, Charlie. Born in 2006. Think of all of the treasures that must be put away for him:

2006 Tuscany
2006 Burgundy
2006 Northern Rhones
2006 Barolo
actually pretty much 2006 anything Italian...

And now Arabella will come. Born in 2009. I still have to do my research but I'm hoping for a great Champagne year. And of course, as always, a great year in Burgundy...

Duryea's

It is arguably one of my top 5 restaurants on the planet. I've visited France extensively, Italy a couple of times, Ireland, Britain, the Virgin Islands, California a couple of times, Spain, and Japan...but this little seaside restaurant blows most of 'em out of the water.

It is an old (and still operational) lobster and seafood wholesaler- not a middle man mind you, but a direct from sea to market. The wholesale building actually sits on this North/Northwest facing bay and if you dine between 5pm and 7pm you catch a magnificent sunset right in the face. Plastic tables and chairs and a wood deck that is the beginnings of an old abandoned dock from the times when the boast would actually pull up to the wholesaler with their catch of the day (times have changed now and Duryea's has a number of vans to go purchase from the ships at their slips).

The menu is simple- clam chowder, steamed mussels with butter, salad, boiled lobster with baked potato and coleslaw, grilled fish with lemon. It sounds pretty boring written, but the freshness combined with the perfect setting for eating this seafood done in a no frills way makes these dishes to die for.

Duryea's is BYOB- and you know this speaks to me. Technically, you are not supposed to bring wine/beer as the SLA shut them down for not having some form of a BYOB permit(????) But, they turn a blind eye as you walk the 20 feet out to your car for some "adult apple juice" or "adult grape juice." In a fun way it makes you feel like you're 18 again.

And that's it. No waiters. Plastic forks/knives/paper napkins. Basically, it's all about the lobster, that setting, and a feeling that for an hour or so you're back deck overlooks this picturesque bay while you watch the sun drop in front of you while drinking adult apple juice.

Duryeas' is up off this semi-dirt road just North of Montauk town. I don't know the street name. It was discovered quite sometime ago so I assume google searches will be pretty fruitful. What hasn't been discovered is lunch at Duryea's which is still the deal of the century as far getting in and getting out quickly while eating fantastically. They take no reservations, so dinner can sometimes be a long wait if you hit them wrong.

Oh, prices...$34 I belive for the lobster and trimmings...$10 for some mussels to start with. Not super cheap...But, you factor in the beverage cost and it's a very good deal.

So, if in Montauk. Ask a local, "How do I get to Duryea's?" Get a chilled bottle of wine and an opener- they'll give you a cup. And make sure you're there to eat at 5pm for the sun.

If you want to truly understand Burgundy...

If you ever wanted to know what great Burgundy tastes like- listen to this in its entirety:

Neil Young Live at Massey Hall 1971

drink a bottle of something from Olivier Lamy or Fichet or Roulot if you do....

1985 Barca Velha

Monday night I was fortunate enough to taste these...

Breuer Berg Schlossberg 1994
Egon Muller Scharzhofberger Kabinett 2001
Coche Drury Bourgogne Rouge 1997
Barca Velha 1985
Azienda Agricola Sella Lessona 1979
Oddero Barolo 1967
Gouges Nuits St George Vaucrains 1er 1993
Chevillon Nuits St George Ronciers 1er 1999
Trimbach Cuvee Frederic Emile Vendages Terdives 1990

A simply breathtaking lineup that even now leaves me speechless just writing it. All were amazing. The Germans were beautiful- tight, still tons of acid and an excellent starter.

The Coche...who knew Coche blows it out of the water in reds as well? The second greatest Bourgogne Rouge I've ever tasted (the first was the 2001 Jayer-Gilles Haute Cote de Nuits).

The Lessona...we didn't even know what Lessona was? We just knew this old very important importer had brought it in (TresBon) and it was amazing. Very Ferrando Caremma-like.

We initially thought the Oddero was slightly over the hill, but it came back to life and showed excellent once it got its legs underneath it. Very floral for such an old wine.

Both the Gouges and the Chevillon were freakin off the radar. These are what Burgundy is all about. Power. Depth. Tannin. Nuits has no Grand Crus in it primarily because Gouges helped build the Grand Cru system back in the late '30s and convinced many of his fellow growers that the system was good for all by placing no vineyards with Grand Crus status in his home town of Nuits. But, if Nuits were to have Grand Crus these (Vaucrains and Ronciers) would be up for consideration. Amazing Grand Cru level quality.

And a beautiful finish with the Freddy Emile.Again, like the Germans, still racy and incredibly young. Petrol honey everywhere........

But, the wine of the night was the '85 Barca Velha. Arguably one of the greatest red wines I have ever tasted in my life. Think Hermitage, crossed with old Tondonia from Lopez, crossed with Conterno Barolo. To try and describe it in writing would be impossible. If you can get your hands on any older Barca Velha- do so! And what a great example to prove to us all that singular age worthy wines don't always have to come from the classical regions. As it was said at the table- this Barca is deserving of being on the same table as top older Petrus, Chave Hermitage, and/or Montfortino. Simply put: a profound wine experience.

no time?

I find myself with no time lately. I wake up and I'm cooking for family, cleaning, putting Little Man in clothes, fielding emails like Derek Jeter, corralling the pooch away from something she's not supposed to have her nose in, fixing, fixing, picking up, dealing, showering, shaving , and somewhere in there I find time to eat. Coffee is my personal fuel. I called my brother and remarked that a family man's finest personal time is the 5-10 minutes he spends on the John each morning- paper in hand.

And so, the other day I found myself with too much finely chopped chives. The butter was out. Hmm...Maybe an herb butter? Now, I'm not re-inventing the wheel here. Every chef on the planet uses herbed butters, but for me this was a new highlight. All of a sudden I now had instant 'good' sauce! Ta da! It was like the clouds parted and the sun shown down on my Mr Mom briliance. And so, I'm not here advocating a recipe or a pairing. I'm simply putting it forward...

If you are like me. If you have no time...Actually if you owe time...then make yourself some herbed butter. It takes half a second while you're making the normal meal...but it will make bland food taste so much better....

In Defense of Classicism

I met with a family member that had recently dined at one of the top classical French restaurants in NYC. As I've never been to this restaurant- and want to go- I will leave it nameless for now. He had the tasting menu paired with wine. The menu was super classically French. Very simple, but intensely pure flavors were his description. Spice, heat, and aromatics used but in the most delicate sense.

Now this family member knows wine and he was disappointed with the wine. Sparkling Torrontes? Off beat Californians? Like him, I don't get it. I...yes 'I'...think that there is a place for the unique and weird in the world of wine, but then there are places...dining experiences...that do demand structure- especially when one is paying so much, and especially when one is eating food which is so delicately made. There is a matter of taste to be considered.

As I stroll around Long Island, visit New York, and even flip through the various foodie magazines...I am piqued by the new flippancy of food and wine pairings. I am American and I do believe in 'no rules' wine pairings. But, I also believe in the foundations of pairing structure. Just like a chef, the basics have to be mastered and many times the old adage of 'there is a reason this goes with that' applies.

For example...for ME (and I'm stressing ME because I want to be clear that this is my sole opinion) classical Italian food can only be drunk with Italian wine- preferably of the traditional style. That food culture is completely unique to that peninsula and the wines and their style have been developed over hundreds of years to match exactly with that food. In France...and with that French restaurant...the classical dishes are the same. There's a reason the Sauce Bordelaise tastes magnificent with Bordeaux. There's a reason ham steaks with a tomato cream sauce taste fantastic with Chablis...and why roast lamb matches so well with Rhones...

The opposite might be asked about the rest of the wines of the world. Great, so what do we do with California? What about Oregon Pinot Noir? What about the New Zealand Riesling? When is it classically appropriate to drink those wines?

Well, again...for ME...when those wines are being paired I look for the foods that are classically eaten around them...Californian wines- Mexican and Central American cuisine and classical American dishes. Tacos. Chile. BBQ. Hamburgers.....New Zealand Wines- Pan Asian, specically Malayasian aor Thai styled foods. Thai green curried mussels....Oregon- Alaskan Salmon in all of it's glory.

There are no rules...but there are rules. I hope that when I dine at that great French restaurant in New York they re-discover their classiscm.

Marco Pierre White

I must admit that I have a bit of an obsession with people who are absolutists. You know, people who live life- who work at such intense extremes of quality- that it's everything or nothing.

In the food world, my obsession began the first time I read through Keller's French Laundry cookbook. To hear him discuss sourcing, discussing the intricate details of why even the most mundane and seemingly inconsequential tasks make the biggest difference, that level of artistry captured me.

And my latest obsession of foodie observation is the philosophy of Marco Pierre White. I was introduced to him through a client/chef whom I deeply respect: Douglas Gulijia of the Plaza Cafe in Southampton, NY. Doug showed me Marco's cookbook, if you could call it that. It's really more of a rock star's biography, really. So, I did some research. Who is this guy? What made him so controversial? Youngest guy ever to win 3 Michelin stars. Mentored Gordon Ramsey. Mario Battali worked under him. A legend in Britain. An absolute tirant in the kitchen. So, what was his story?...And I stumbled upon this Google Chef's interview.

47+ minutes long and I found myself respecting him even more. It's the absolute "Miyagi-ism" of the way he lives his life- left side or right side, in middle, squish just like grape. Like Bourdain he doesn't apologize for his bad habits or his darker side- it comes with the job. But like Keller he truly believes in food- in the reverence for it. And beneath the sex, drugs, and rock n' roll he promotes a heavy ethic of accountability. My financial obsession, Buffett, would like this guy.

It is an amazing interview...just to hear a great chef speak. I'll put eating at one of his restaurants on my bucket list...or even eating with him, which would be a double-bucket...maybe a starred bucket list item(?)...on the list. Doubt if it'll ever happen.

Regardless, the man is inspiring.