Sunday, December 13, 2009

Basque Chicken


A simply marvelous dish the other week: Basque styled chicken.

As usual, I headed back to the study of my wife's grandfather Pierre Franey for the fundamentals. In leafing through a number of his books I discovered some themes within his technique and sauces. There is definitely a Spanish, or Iberian, or Basque theme- whatever you want to call it really- but it comes when the classic French saute structure sees a hefty dose of garlic, both green and red peppers, tomatoes, olives and some form of heat- chiles, red pepper flakes, etc...

Here is the recipe below. I actually added a nice hefty dollop of Tabasco in at the end which really deepened the flavor.

You would think that you should serve something like Basque Chicken with a Basque red, yes? Well, maybe, but the Basque region is known for its whites called Txakolina. This is super crispy white made from the grape Hondarribi Zuri. Lemon acid, a little spritz, and a high saline quotient make this a no brainer when oystering, or chowing on shellfish.

So, your next thought might be a Rioja, or Ribera del Duero- classic Spanish reds. I would also pass on these. Garlic, olive oil and tomatoes scream the Mediterranean for me and that puts us closer to Barcelona and with the power of the sauce and the heat of the red pepper or Tabasco I would want a raw, earthy, sun roasted wine. In Spain, I'd look at the Monastrells of Alicante- the peninsula that sticks out in the Med, south of Barcelona. I'd also highly recommending heading North into the Languedoc-Rousillon area of France. (I actually had an amazing Costieres de Nimes, Chateau la Baume, with my Basque Chicken.) Anyways...the preparation is classic and can be done with pork, chicken, lamb, or steak...Make sure to adjust pan roasting time based on how long you need to cook the meat.


Basque Chicken (as adopted from Pierre Franey)

Take out a large roasting dish, a huge Creuset pot with a heavy lid will do. Put it on the stove and set the heat to high. Turn the oven on to 400 degrees. Take 2 chicken breasts (skin on) and lightly dredge them in flour. Add oil to the pot and add chicken breasts skin side down. Salt and pepper them. Let them cook until the skin has caramelized and is golden brown. Once brownness is achieved, flip the breasts and cook 2-3 minutes on the other side. At this point, the skin should looked cooked, but the meat will probably still look pretty raw.

While your browning the chicken do your chopping and prepping.
Chop up 1 large onion.
Chop up 3 cloves of garlic.
Chop up 1 green pepper.
Chop up 1 red pepper.
Get some pitted olives.
Open a can of San Marzano tomatoes and mash the whole tomatoes with a fork so that they're rather broken up.
Open up your beef stock and make sure its ready.
Make sure you have some white wine.
Check to make sure you have your spices- bay leaf, dried thyme, salt pepper.

Getting back to the chicken. After those 2-3 minutes on the meat side, take chicken out of the pot and set aside. Add onions and garlic to the pot. Stir around for about 2 minutes to coat. Add peppers to the pot. Cook about 3-4 minutes (let them start to cook.) Then add bay leaf and large pinch of dried thyme. Make sure mixture is thoroughly cooking by now- then hit it with a shot of white wine. Deglaze the pan by scraping up the bottom. Put the chicken breasts back in the pot. Add the tomatoes now. Add a shot of beef stock- not too much...you want it to marry with everything, not water it all down. Add your Tabasco now. Add the olives. Salt and pepper some more.

Now, cover the pot with the lid and stick it in the oven (or per Pierre, you can let it cook on the stove if you don't want to start your oven.) For chicken, I like it really roasting for about 20 minutes. The flavors will come together and the chicken should be just done. Pork, maybe 25 minutes.

Make some rice.

Plate with rice and add breast over rice with sauce on top. Maybe finish with chopped parseley.

Serve with a Mediterranean red.

Wednesday, November 25, 2009

A denouncement of The Best

I finally have taken my first week off in over a year. Feel's good. A little weird I must admit to downshift, but good. The reason was the birth of my daughter Arabella. A miracle and an absolute gift. You can tell I'm smitten and in love, can't you...:)

Two things caught my eye this week that I wanted to share though...

The first was the 2009 Winter Holiday Season Catalog from Patagonia. Normally clothes catalogs are nice to flip through for about 30 seconds but that's it for me. This one is widely different and I think Yves Choinard and Patagonia have created the perfect business meets life trip/story I've ever seen. The catalog is featured around the release of the Malloy movie 180 South and is a re-creation of the original trip done by pals Yves Choinard and Doug Tompkins traveling from California to Chile, and finishing in Patagonia. The trip is re-created by surfer/adventurer/mountain climber Jeff Johnson. I've yet to see the film but it looks amazing. A complete purist view of the world venturing to one of the purest places in the world...for no reason other than to do a trip.

And my magazine trolling also saw me looking at a lot of, well, magazines. And I began to notice something. The word, or better yet, the expression- "the best" is used way too much in our society. The Best. What does that mean?

If I write and tell you that a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is "the best" does that mean that every other Napa Cab pails in comparison?

If you read a restaurant review and the writer says that a restaurant makes "the best" butternut squash soup does that mean that every time you go to another restaurant and order butternut squash soup you know you are ordering a second rate soup?

I am red handed in this. For years I've used this phrase to sell a lot of wine. My daily emailed offering constantly included the phrase "the best". The Best Chianti for Under $15. The Best 10 Wines for the Holidays. The Best White Burgundy Value. What does the phrase do- it certainly catches your attention which is why it's used so much. It's why I used it. But is it honest? Even after honestly extolling the virtues of what may be an absolutely excellent choice White Burgundy-one that may be at a quality much higher than most of its peers- is it right or correct to say that that wine is "The Best" White Burgundy?

No. It is not.

The Culture of the Table is about the complete embrace of life and relationships centering around what happens at the table. Each experience table side is different, carrying its own background and context, and for that reason there never is any best. There are fantastic moments, great highs, unbelievable treasured meals, and magnificent wines...But without the people with you at the place in time, with the back drop of the setting, and the circumstances of the day...nothing tastes and feels as good. In essence, embracing The Culture of the Table is embracing a living terroir very much like Jeff Johnson embraced life by traveling down to Patagonia.

So, why the big diatribe and all of that about this phrase that basically means nothing but sells a ridiculous amount of product? It is because from this point on I have decided to never use that phrase again. It's not honest. It carries no integrity. It does not tell the story of the table. And it explains nothing of a living terroir.

Embrace your relationships and the moment- cherish them. They are the foundation of the Table.

Happy Thanksgiving. All my best to your family.

Christian

Saturday, November 7, 2009

Embrace poverty!


Maybe it's Winter, but I find myself moving more and more into my Lyonnais hole. As all know, Lyon is the Gastronomic center of France- many regard it as the food capital of the Western world. It's famous for its famous chefs- Paul Bocuse, Jacques Pepin, and Daniel Boulod amongst countless others. But, it's not the haute cuisine that inspires me. It's the brasseries, the bistros, and cafes. Dishes involving pork, braised "off" cuts of meat, and the baguette as the spoon of choice. Mustard is more important than salt and pepper- table side.

The recession is over I guess, but times are still tough. Me? I'm celebrating the times. I'm re-discovering pork. I made my first mornay sauce last week and yes, I need some work, but I found it amazing that a little flour, butter, cream, eggs, and cheese could elevate broccoli in such a way.

Lentils have become fashionable in my household.

And in wine, I find myself enamored with the Grand Crus of Lyon- Les Crus de Beaujolais. These are the best of the best, finest wines produced by artisanal growers working traditionally. And many blow the pants off of Burgundies from the North costing 3, 4, 5x as much.

Marcel LaPierre's Morgon 2007 is one of my favorites...Arguably one of the finest red wines that can be drunk table side- and a legend within its own appellation. Under $25bt retail. Earth. Minerals. Reduced black cherry. Yet, fresh and with an acidity that penetrates fat like a knife through warm butter.

Embrace poverty. Slow down. For me, with such humble ingredients, my table is more rich than its ever been.

Cru Beaujolais producers to search out:

LaPierre
Desvignes
Jean Paul Brun
Trenel
Clos de Roilette
Tete
Christian Bernard
Chignard
Chauvet
Michaud
Descombes
Diochon
Guy Breton

If you don't feel like cooking- no worries. Get a fantastic, classic french styled baguette, some cornichons, some saussicon, some marinated olives, some comte cheese, some pate, a head of Boston lettuce. Make a vinaigrette from a shaken mixture of a dollop of dijon mustard, salt and pepper, 1 part red wine vinegar, 3 parts vegetable oil. Pour over lettuce head. Serve with other ingredients and a bottle of one of the above.

Finish bottle!


I'm Back!!!

You may have noticed a hiatus in the posts. My apologies.

A fantastic chicken curry and beer last night.

Will post more soon.

Monday, August 31, 2009

2003 Pontet-Canet

My sister-in-law brought home a bottle of Pontet-Canet 2003 yesterday. She asked if it was a good bottle. Yes, I responded. Pontet-Canet is a good producer. And that's what I thought. Classified growth Left Bank Bordeaux. Probably Michel Rollanded and over-made, I anticipated. Forgettable and over-priced, I assumed.

No.

There was a glass left, so I decided to have a glass with lunch as I'm working from home today. And what I found has re-opened my eyes to Classified Growth Bordeaux. Parker writes this is a definition of cassis. I completely disagree. Scorched earth and dark chocolate- yes. But more important, the wine delivers depth and power without a huge overly made alcoholic mouthfull. In short- it's balanced. There's structure here and even acidity which I can't believe for this vintage!?

Is it over priced? Yes. Even now, I'm seeing sticker prices at around $70bt. I think it drinks that and I think that's a fair price to pay for this quality. But, I would wait as ties they days demand patience. There are 2004s on the shelf, and the glorious 2005s (greatest ever vintage) are languishing.

So, be patient and when this wine dips below $40bt...buy it all.

Wednesday, August 26, 2009

The Lesson of Sous Vide


There's my boy doing his rendition of tuna, sous vide, complete with plastic orange letter "w" in the preparation.

I thought it was so cool that he started playing around with this thin slice of tuna and then he noticed that if he submerged it into hot water it changed color- it was cooking.

Sous vide is some what controversial, but any great chef I've talked to has said it's THE way to perfectly cook food. It concentrates better. It cooks perfectly uniformly. It allows for so much more control in the professional kitchen. Will it eventually make its way to the household kitchen? Well, it would guarantee that your chicken is properly cooked- your whole chicken.

But, I (and many of my chef friends as well) wonder if sous vide takes away some of the soul of cooking. It brings into play the 'perfection' question and whether being slightly imperfect is actually a better thing.

I guess it's summed up like this: is it better to be consistent or to have character?

Funny, that the business mind of me says consistency, but the humanity of me wants character- in food, wine, and at the table.

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Malliouhana




One of THE super great, under the radar resort destinations based in Anguilla. I recommend it because I'm desperately feeling the need for a vacation, but with a baby girl coming this Fall...well, I'm not going anywhere. Probably the best high caliber food and wine destination I've been to in all of the Caribbean.


If you do ever make it here, make sure to have the lobster omelet with a bottle of Raveneau (multiple wines for amazingly only around $60+bt)!?