On good glassware...

Glassware matters.

Like, a lot.

This is not to say that every time I sit down at a table I'm expecting the finest Riedel stemware. No. What I'm hoping for is an appropriate glass that accurately accompanies the meal, the setting, and the seriousness of the wines served.

For example, it's 8:30pm after a very long day at work. Rumaging through the fridge and I come up with cornichons, prosciutto, marinated olives, some pate, two different cheeses- all to be served along side half a baguette. The wine might be a cru Beaujolais (Christian Bernard's Grands Fers or Clos du Roilette are good examples). The wine is served slightly chilled. I actually don't want a big, brassy, heavy, important glass. A simple bistro tasting glass is perfect.

For simple Italian pizza I actually don't like a wine glass. For me, mentally traveling with the meal I like a small tumbler . It reminds me of a something you might see at local Tuscan trattoria. The wine might be a Toscano Rosso. But with the simplicity of the food, it just tastes more pure in a non-wine glass.

Now, this is not to say that good glassware is not important. Burgundy is Burgundy. And with Burgundy, it simply tastes better in classic big bowled Burg glasses. It just does...Bordeaux and Napa Cab the same...Bordeaux glasses please.

But, if I had to choose one glass to have and use all the time it would be the classic Burgundy glass. Maker, Spieglau- the tried and true, and for me one of the best values. The Burg glasses aren't cheap, but for me they aerate the wine the best and Burgundy is all about the nose. And well, they just seem to make the wine in the glass feel more important. Jayer Hautes Cote de Nuits in a tumbler or a small tasting glass...it just doesn't work.

Where I stand on the Natural Wine debate

Those in the wine business may have recently noticed that a controversy is coming to a head regarding the marketing of the term natural wine. Those not in the wine business probably have never heard of this; it's a term more used by wine wholesalers to define a wine when selling to a restaurateur or retailer, than it is used by a retailer or restaurateur to educate the general public.

So, in Issue 191 of his Wine Advocate, Mr Robert Parker Jr. wrote the following:

"About these “natural,” unmanipulated and pure wines: One of the major scams being foisted on wine consumers is the so-called “Natural’ wine movement. It is not subjected to any government regulations or any definition beyond that of the individual who has spawned the term. Over 95% of the wines written about in this publication are from producers who make under 5,000 cases and are “natural” wines by nearly any rational definition of the word. They are made without additives or enzymes, and usually have minimal sulphur, but they do contain sulphur as they should because otherwise they are unstable, potentially dangerous and impossible to transport because the wines will spoil. In the case of southern Rhône wines, they simply have no make-up whatsoever. There are no color enzymes, no color added, no artificial flavors, very little acidification, etc., etc. In short, they are grapes fermented into wine with 95% or more aged in neutral wood vessels, concrete vats, stainless steel, etc. A tiny percentage does see aging in new oak casks, or more typically in the southern Rhône, the larger 600-liter demimuids. These are natural wines – make no mistake about it. They are also wines that work wonders with an assortment of cuisines because of the absence of new oak and any makeup."

This position has set off a fire storm of debate about the use of the term natural wine to market wines; and more over whether natural wines even exist at all. Currently there is a 4 page thread (and growing) on the Wine Advocate's Bulletin Board which contains posts from major importer/distributor owners, collectors, wine drinkers, and even Mr Parker himself raking over the coals of this debate.

Where do I stand on this issue?

I do believe in natural wine as a term to describe the style in which one chooses to farm, make, and bottle his/her wines.

I do believe that a more pure, terroir expressive quality can be achieved by attempting to go this route in one's production.

I do believe that this route is incredibly risky in terms of a standardization of product; and I believe that as long as the consumer purchases the wine knowing that it was made in a natural way then the consumer takes this risk on their shoulders (I also believe it is the restaurateur's/retailer's job to make sure the consumer is made aware.)

I do not believe all natural wine is superior to wines made with corrections in the cellar. I believe that the quality I point to in point #2 is totally on a producer by producer, and in many times a wine by wine, basis.

And that's where I stand on the issue.

At the end of the day, it's a wonderful product that enhances the table, our food, and hopefully our lives. But, it's still just fermented grapes. If you like it- drink it. If you don't, drink something else.

Eataly...you gotta go

Hats off to Joe, Mario and company. A client of mine raved heavy about Eataly. I had heard of it- didn't think much of it. And for the first time in a long time, the hype lived up to the hype.

Think Disney World for Italian food and wine lovers. Seriously. It's awe inspiring. It's fun. It's cool. It's convenient. It's got huge energy. It's affordable. It's quality. It's arguably the greatest commercial example of a living and breathing culture of the table (Italian table) that I've ever seen.

I was blown away. You gotta go...

Eataly

200 5th Ave
New York, NY 10010

P.S.- If you read the reviews you will be scratching your head. Trust me, just go...it's worth it.

The Rules and Etiquette of the Wine Trade Tasting

Sorry, I've been MIA for awhile. Craziness. Drama. Stuff. Life. I won't get into it. Anyways........I'm back! And I have a lot to write about. Food (of course!). Wine (you know). Glassware (cause I have something to say about glassware now). And the daily grind at the table...

But, before I get into all of those things let me start with the obvious for all of you industry folks out there. In the industry, the Fall and the Spring are the traditional "tasting periods". Importers and distributors will put on these huge trade tastings for the shops and restaurants in advance of the traditional buying season. Huge, as in 500+ wines at a show huge...as in way too many to make deciding and buying even practical.

Anyways, for years the industry itself has collectively- socially- voiced some real problems in tasting etiquette. In essence, there are 'understood' rules to coming to, and participating in, these tastings and yet each and every year many seem to be oblivious to these tasting norms which interferes with the rest of us trying to politely taste. I know this because literally after each and every tasting I've ever attended, every single one of my clients spends no less than 10 minutes on "that/those person(s)..."

So, I'm taking it upon myself to lay down some rules. Thus,

The Rules and Etiquette of the Wine Trade Tasting

(in no particular order or importance)

* Always keep your opinions to yourself (a wine you may hate, someone may love).

* Always compliment the winemaker or winery regardless of your opinion of their wine (they spent an entire year making this product, you may not like it, but you must respect that.)

* Always observe a two foot personal boundary of the tasting table (offer your glass for a taste, receive a pour, step back two feet to allow others to receive a pour as well).

* Always spit. Getting drunk at a tasting is unprofessional.

* When spitting, lean in within 6 inches of the spittoon and controllably spit so as to not create a backsplash for yourself or others.

* The food, regardless of how extravagant it may be, is a courtesy not a right. Never criticize it, the purpose of the tasting is to taste the wines.

* Always be incredibly polite to the winery / winemaker...In essence, they are artists who have made a product and are offering it to you. It may not be to your taste, but at least recognize their work.

* Whenever possible, work your physical body to keep the tasting table in front of you clear and open so that others may come forward and receive a pour.

* Bringing 'friends' who are not in the business is largely frowned upon. However, if this person truly does help you make accurate and current buying decisions then this is acceptable. There is an 'understanding' in this...

* It is always appreciated that tastings be used for business first, pleasure second (in essence, coming to a tasting to simply taste the most extravagant / expensive wine, and that's it, is frowned upon).

And that's all of the rules I can think of right now. I have spoken with many of my clients over more than half a decade regarding this subject. I welcome your input. Place your comments below.

Are you supporting your local pork store?

One of the great American past time hold overs from days long gone by is the Italian-American pork store. I was recently reminded of this last week when I decided to visit for a coffee and biscotti (although they call it bis-cot; it sounds cooler).

Anyways, I've always been nervous when it comes to prepared foods, but the Italian pork stores seem to have the finest- whether I was in East Hampton, Hoboken, Manhattan, or Brooklyn. The quality is outstanding!

So, I saw some freshly made pizza dough. Some freshly made, in-store, mozzarella. Some freshly made sauce. Voila! Pizza.

It was amazing. And the total cost for two huge pies produced was under $20.

In short- go see your local Italian pork store. Buy some dough, sauce, and mozz. You will be getting insane value and quality for your money.

1% For The Planet

I started writing this blog awhile back really for me, not you. It was a means of voicing my personal cultural philosophy...a WAY that was deeply grounded in the embrace of food/wine/the table/family-friends/ and all of the accouterments that make this experience the richest it can be.

The accouterments are the food, the wine, the glassware, etc...And the wine I sell. And the more and more I dive deeper into these accouterments the more I find myself looking for things that are 100% original and authentic. Products that are pieces of true craftsmanship and are 100% filled with soul. For me, it's more and more important that there's a related experience through the accouterment product....that the fish was hand-harvested, that the wine came from a biodynamically farmed estate, that the flowers were picked from someone's garden. In short, it's about care.

And in the end, this concept of care doesn't just stop at care of the table. The sourcing of care must descend all the way back to the source of the product- the earth.

Last year, I stumbled upon a trailer for the film 180 South (http://www.180south.com/) by Chris Malloy. Patagonia Clothing Company was heavily involved in the movie and I eventually found myself reading quite a bit about Yvon Chouinard and Patagonia. For me, Chouinard has become a proverbial business mentor. His company is worth hundreds of million of dollars and yet it maintains the feel of a company that was just created by some kids out of a college dorm room. It is anti-establishment in every way, yet feels free enough to sell millions of dollars worth of clothing to Joe and Jane America every day. And the beauty in all of this is that they haven't, nor ever will, sell out. They are 100% authentic, soulfull, and sincerre in everything they do.

One of the tenants of Patagonia has become a staunch aggressive stance on pro-environmental issues. In fact, they have become the first members of a group called 1% For The Planet in order to actively care for the planet.

And that's where I'll tie all of this together. To love the table, to love the food, and the wine, and all that is the dining experience- and life for that matter- and simply ignore the environmental problems around us is simply arrogance. It's not dreaming. If you think otherwise, go to the Gulf coast and ask some blue collar fisherman what they think about the importance of environmentalism...Cause that could be us Northeasterners, or Westcoasters, or whoever next week!

And so....

If you own a business, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND that you go and visit Patagonia's Tin Shed (http://www.patagonia.com/web/us/tinshed/index.jsp?ln=263). Click on the link for 1% For The Planet. Listen to Yvon and co.

Once you do- and you think about the Gulf- it becomes a no brainer.

What I look for in wine

"What do you look for in wine?"

Being in the business, I'm asked this a lot. I like transparent wines. I want to taste where they come from. I want simple wines, but wines that are so pure, so authentic, that their complexity and depth is whimsically hidden by how simply they can come across. It's a little tough to explain.

I recently came across a quote which I think sums up the way I want my wine:

"Have you ever thought, not only about the airplane but whatever man builds, that all of man's industrial efforts, all his computations and calculations, all the nights spent working over draughts and blueprints, invariably culminate in the production of a thing whose sole and guiding principle is the ultimate principle of simplicity?

It is as if there were a natural law which ordained that to achieve this end, to refine the curve of a piece of furniture, or a ship's keel, or the fuselage of an airplane, until gradually it partakes of the elementary purity of the curve of the human breast or shoulder, there must be experimentation of several generations of craftsmen. In anything at all, perfection is finally attained not when there is no longer anything to add, but when there is no longer anything to take away, when a body has been stripped down to its nakedness."

-Antoine de Saint Exupéry

I like it when I taste a wine and it's so pure, so authentic that there's nothing for me to wonder about it. I just exist next to it, it's that deep.