BOLDNESS

I've been having an issue with Californian wines for quite some time. Let's face it- they're about the fruit (for the most part). There is terroir, you do taste it here and there, but for the most part it's about purity of the fruit. In my recent trip to California many of the producers talked about harvest and they stressed the "purity of the fruit"- "the balance within the fruit". Many also talked about terroir, but usually this discussion was in reference to the quality of fruit that could come from that terroir.

So, fruit juice- what do you eat with fruit juice? While on that trip, there were many great meals. Grilled lamb chops, tandorri chicken, salads, cheeses, breads, pastas, etc...But it was a little precursor dish that continues to haunt my attention- hot, chicken tacos with mango/habanero sauce. I remember the dish, but not until last evening did it really sink in.

Last evening I went out to a very authentic Mexican joint in town. Really honest, home cooked food (they serve tongue tacos). And I was watching these guys preparing this food, and was just struck by the deep level of food culture that Central and South America has. (As a country, I just think we're seeing the tip of the iceberg now regarding our own unique food culture.) But, you saw these Latin Americans working and there was love being shown to the food. And then it hit me that Californian wines are made for Central and South American (and Cali) food. Tacos, Burritos, Empanadas, Rice and beans...spice, heat, bold flavors.

Sure there are some earthy, very close to being European styled wines coming out of CA. But, I wish for Cali that it would solely embrace it's cuisine and the cuisine of the South and just be BIG.