My dear friend and mentor: Betty Franey

The greatest pure COTT moments happen with important family members.

I will never forget standing over my kitchen sink next to my father when I was like 13-14. He had driven me home (probably from football practice). It was August. And he had stopped by a local farm stand and picked up these huge bursting ripe tomatoes. We went home. He took out a knife. Sliced two tomatoes in half, shook some salt then pepper over each open half, gave one to me, and then we gorged on them while leaning over the sink. The juices dripped down my mouth and chin, and I'll never forget the explosion of pure flavor that I tasted in those tomato halves. It would only have been mildly important if he wasn't there showing me this.

I'll also never forget that first weekend at my then girlfriend's (now wife's) grandmother's home in East Hampton. A lasagna that I had to have three helpings of. It was too good. The next night, a perfectly roasted chicken that was too die for. Perfectly caramelized outside. Perfectly succulent inside. And seasoning that was exquisite. The wine was Macon. It was pure, steely, apples..and it was perfect. And it was this moment that solidified my tract toward the food and wine business.

It's funny how I hear stories regarding Culture of the Table Moments, and the company is maybe sometimes played out in the background- with the food and wine taking center stage. I think the best COTT moments require the opposite. It is the people at the table, the people who cook with you, the people who share that glass with you that truly make the moment. Without them there is no sharing, no giving...and the moment is somehow less.

I lost a dear friend and family member yesterday. She was a mentor. She was a standard bearer for excellence in all things- both in and out of the kitchen. Looking back on this whole Culture of the Table philosophy I embrace, well, she discovered and practice it long before me. I will miss her very much and will take comfort that she will be with me in spirit for every meal, for every glass, and for every setting of the table.

And I will never forget her roast chicken.

First real meal back

I'm past the mid-way point on this cleanse- Day 6 today- and done by Wednesday.It's affected the way I look at food. I still crave my vino, bread, cheese, meat, fish, etc...but I find myself thinking about getting back to normal eating and not just wanting to devour all of those things immediately. It's kind of like this- if you were forced to clean up your room after you had lived messy so long, and maintain it clean for a decent period of time...well...you tend to come like the new benefits of it being clean, and you're not so eager to mess it up right away.

That said, I can't wait for the rigidity of the cleanse way of life to end. Some free thinking on my first meal back. This Thursday will be the day...And I think it will be chicken, rice, and a lot of vegetables. Nothing crazy- probably just marinated grilled chicken breasts. And I will have wine...probably a sample that's open from the day (thinking ahead probably a Macon or something). And bread and cheese (again a couple slices of baguette and some slices of parmesan or comte or what's available).

A new me? No. And Yes. Still a gourmand. Still deeply a passionate eater and practicer of The Culture of the Table. Now, just doing it with respect to my human bio-dynamics...

(And although it's not a point of all of this, and not my intention, in 6 days I've lost 15lbs.)

Drinking the other side of the street in white Burgundy

In speaking with a client this week regarding his in-store wine sales he pointed out that he's now selling white Burgundy. Fantastic! This is great stuuf. Understand that my excitement comes from the fact that I love Burgundy.

I can't afford it though- the best villages and the best vineyards anyway. What I can afford and do drink are the best wines from the towns next store. It's a lot like being a first time home buyer. Maybe you can't afford the super premium street, so you constantly look for the up-and-coming block. Same with me with regards to Burgundy.

So, moving back to white Burgundy, I have three villages that you should look to.

1. Auxey-Duresses...This is a town that borders Meursault to the North. As I get more and more into Meursault- and am able to taste the top producers (Roulot, Fichet, Coche-Drury, Lafon, etc...), I'm also discovering that almost all of these producers have vineyard holdings in Auxey-Duresses as well. Specifically Les Reugne vineyard if you can get it- as it's a sweet spot for Auxey. I find the wines a little more nervous than Meursault. A little more high-toned on the fruit. More citrus enters. More green apple. But, in the hands of a great producer like Fichet these wines drink just a notch down from their Meursault's and are priced at a huge discount against the Meursault's as well.

2. St Aubin...This town sits in a sleep little valley just off to the West between the areas of Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet. For me there is one producer- Lamy. (Note: I do represent Lamy professionally.) Hubert & Olivier Lamy make wines that, frankly, blow away most standard Chassagne and Puligny, and some premier cru quality Chassagne and Puligny as well. Specifically, buy their St Aubin En Remilly vineyard as it sits right next to the Grand Cru Batard-Montrachet, but is priced at 1/10 the price. And even his basic St Aubin is fantastic. Highly recommended.

3. St Romain...Another just outside of Meursault town. I've found the wines to be a little funkier here. A little more "pure hay", if you will. Mushrooms and earth pop up a little more. They are, well, Burgundian. Two producers worth noting here are Henri Boillot and Alan Gras. Gras especially, as he's known as pretty much THE producer from St Romain. And again, the wines are ridiculously cheap when you start comparing the prices against THE BEST wines from the big three: Meursault, Chassagne, and Puligny.

Point is, yes you can still drink very very well at a reasonable price in Burgundy. You just need to expand your geography and make sure you're choosing only the best producers.

Human Bio-dynamics

So, I'm now on Day 3 of this Ayurvedic Cleanse and from a food standpoint I've discovered juicing. Juicing is cool.

This cleanse requires a breakfast of freshly prepared juices (usually in a combination of fruit and vegetables, and herbs). I've never done this before, but the flavor that comes off of carrot, juiced from scratch, or even cucumber, is amazing. It's very alive- very pure.

I going to try making some cold soups this way with a base of light spices and finishing with various oils and finely chopped herbs.

Other than that, I have to say that the food is edible, it sustains you, it certainly makes you feel healthy...but I'm not loving it. I'm now starting to understand that this cleanse- this diet- is the equivalent of farming your body bio-dynamically. From a agricultural standpoint I completely believe in that. Wines made when bio-dynamic farming is employed (for me) taste more alive- more pure- more "just' made. They are completely natural.

And here, this cleanse, it makes your health feel in very much that same way. But, I'm human, not a vine, not a plant, and I like my eggs, dairy, cheese, fat, meat, and fish...And I've got 7 days to go. I don't forsee myself gorging on those product categories come day 11, but damn I can't wait.

Master Cleanse

So, tomorrow and for the next 10 days I will be participating in an ayurvedic cleanse. Again, keeping it short and sweet I can't drink alcohol, caffeine, eat dairy, protein, and for the most part carbohydrates (exception being millet and quinoa).

I can use pretty much any vegetable and herb you can think of (but no tomatoes). I can use fruit- and use dried fruits like raisins, dates, and cranberries. I can use walnuts and almonds. I can use olive oil (but not to sautee in, but to finish, yes). I can use lemon and avocado like it's going out of style. Spices - especially spices with heat (Cayenne, curry, Chile powder) I can use as much as I want. I can use salt and pepper. And as it's a vegetable I can use garlic.

It's like an LSAT question, right? Well, chefs, home chefs, I'm tossing this out to you. What's the best dish you have in your arsenal within those boundaries?

I'm all ears.

One of my bibles

It's probably about time that I gave 'props' to one of my bibles...

Setting The Table, by Danny Meyer, is a reference-able work for me. I read it constantly- always going back to sections for insight into business, creative ideas, and general keys to success. It goes without saying that if you haven't gone to Manhattan and eaten at one of Meyer's restaurants- GO!

I've gone several times and have eaten at Union Square, The Modern, Grammercy and Eleven Madison. Each meal was fantastic. But, what always shocks me is their level of execution. Meyer believes and preaches a philosophy called Enlightened Hospitality. I'm not going to get into it, but it's the key to their execution at such a high level, at all restaurants, all of the time. I find it amazing.

And it goes without saying that Meyer and his restaurants definitively practice The Culture of the Table.

'Cause it goes with hotdogs...

Did a piece for Plum TV tonight, and they tried to stump me by candidly throwing the question, "So what do you drink with hotdogs."

Champagne.

Why not. Champagne goes with everything. You want to throw down for ribeye and bernaise sauce, then send me a glass of Vintage Rose. Sushi. Champagne. Chinese with a Szechuan hot sauce dish. Definitely Champagne. Italian, maybe a pasta. Well, I take that back. When eating Italy, drink Italy. For me, that's a law.

Buy Champagne. Drink more Champagne. Chefs, push more Champagne with your food. It works. It's delicious and it's serious with food.

My favorite ever: Salon 1985. I'll never forget it. It had this petrol nuttiness that reminded me of great aged White Burgundy. Like the aromatics you get off a really great bottle of Raveaneu. They were basically indescribable, yet glorious.

Regardless, just as I made a passionate appeal for people to eat more arugula. I'm now making a passionate plea for people to start drinking Champagne with food- to treat it like wine.

'Cause it goes with hot dgos.

Just the mustard please...

Most nights I come home 'round 8pm. Sometimes my wife and son are already in bed. My wife is not a cook, and I almost always come home hungry. When am I not game for food?

On hand I always have:

cheese
olives
lettuce
components for a freshly made vinaigrette (oil, vinaigre, mustard, salt and pepper)
baguette

And a wine. Usually it will be whatever I had opened that day that I liked. Lately I'm quite smitten with our Frappato based reds of Southern Sicily. Sicilian Beaujolais I've presented them as. A little chill and they are fantastic- especially in this heat wave.

It's not a legendary COTT moment, but the above components are simple, honest, and pure. They allow me to have a simple, honest meal, and enjoy a good glass or two of excellent wine. I write this as some have chimed in lately with comments that COTT moments have to be elaborate. Not so all the time. A very well made salad can be mind blowing, and in the right setting can be completely part of the Culture of the Table.

COTT requires honesty that's all- not dollars.

Perfect Day

I've started working with an ayurvedic consultant. Not going to get into it as far as details, but basically this is a science/practice/religion based in Buddhism/Yoga/Eastern thought that promotes health through more of a holistic approach. What goes in, and comes out, of your body are paramount, as well as is the concept of balance within the equilibrium of the body's personal health both in mind, body, and spirit. This is going to sound a little lupy, but as I am a huge fan of Star Wars (and personally regard it as the greatest story of our time)...I find this health study very, well, Jedi. So for me- it's cool.

One of the things this consultant has asked me to do is keep a journal. An open ended, free-thought journal, but with the one condition that I define a "perfect day". What a great question! I vividly remember my father sitting me down at age 14 and asking me what I wanted to do with the rest of my life (the right answer was, "Nothing. I want to go outside and continue playing wiffleball"), and I remember being so lost by that question. Actually, still am? Aren't we all- all the time? But, here's a question that doesn't ask that, but asks that. And as a passionate believer in the embrace of the Culture of the Table I'm now going to take the time to think about what I'd eat/drink with my perfect day. Here goes...

Breakfast- coffee and juice (Sorry. Nothing sexy here. Breakfast for me on the perfect day is actually about getting time to read the paper in peace.)

Lunch- I actually almost (didn't have Raveaneu) had it once. A perfect lobster omelet with a fresh side salad of micro greens and champagne vinaigrette. A nice hunk of perfect French baguette and a sampler of farmer cheeses. And a bottle of Raveneau Vaillons- 10 years old or older....or a bottle of Tempier Rose (current vintage)

Dinner- The Balthazar shellfish tower. Lamb tangine with herbed couscous. Selected farmer cheeses. Start of with Salon 1988, then to Tempier Cassabou 1990, Clos Rougeard Poyeux 1990, Chave Hermitage Rouge (mid-80's), and Emidio Pepe Montepulciano 1983. Cheese would see: lots of older Burgs from Jayer-Gilles, Comte Armand, Rousseau, Roumier, and DRC.

Dessert: 1863 Barbeito Malvasia......I'll never forget that wine. Greatest wine I have ever tasted. Inexplicable. Like drinking history.

And...I just realized that a perfect day would be filled with like 50,000 other meals/pairings...so carpe diem people.

When the sun gets hot...

As I move into June, my diet, my appetite, my interests in food switch. Butter takes a finishing role instead of a foundational one. Pasta tastes better cold. Herbs are rarely bought, but scissored. The grill becomes grail and everything from the protein of the day, to the local vegetables, to fruit is marinated in olive oil, salt, and pepper and then promptly transferred for a high sear.

My wine interests change as well. Rose becomes the house wine. But I still love red wine. I want fresh red wine- not vintage stuff (not that I'm passing on a glass of older stuff, but I'm pulling younger reds). And as follows with the diet above, my palate craves hearty reds that match my move toward a Mediterranean diet. The wines from Faugueres, St Chinian, Corbieres, Fitou, Minervois, and the rest of the Southern French belt are all standards.

And now I can say I've found the epi-center in Mediterranean wine: Corsica.

Corsica is an interesting place. I've yet to go, but from family members who have gone they say it is still very much a rebellious brash country and people. Although technically French, the country carries a very Italian-centric culture (at least according to the people I've spoken to about it). Maybe it is in essence the best of both Mediterranean France and Italy?

There are a couple of fantastic producers on the island, and one is Antoine Arena. Arena is arguably the best producer in Corsica, and makes wine in the top AOC (or quality controlled appellation) called Patrimonio. His Carco Vineyard bottling of Nieluccio (or Sangiovese) is a reference point wine for all of Corsica, and for me it is one of the best Mediterranean reds out there.

I had the 2005 Arena Patrimonio Carco Rouge tonight. Imagine Brunello di Montalcino power and grace mixed with the wild, savage sage and brush tones of Southern France. It screams Mediterranean. Depth...just so deep...the wine goes on and on with layers of red fruits popping in and out, and dark herbal notes wrapped around all of this. And still- laser beam fresh! In short, a fantastic wine. Definitely a producer to note, to buy, to cellar, and to drink when the Sun gets hot.

A very desperate need in the world

If I win the lottery tomorrow I am pulling a Diane Keaton in Baby Boom (1987). I swear- there is no good baby / kids food. Chefs, if you read this, please (!) as a parent and fellow foodie I appeal to you- re-vamp your kids menus if they consist of just pasta and chicken fingers. Nothing is more of a downer to a parent. Add real deal meatloaf, cheese and veggie omelets, and if must be pasta- make it pasta primavera!

Or, put on what I served Little Man tonight: savory crepes.

Everyone thinks of crepes as a Parisian dessert, but there is an entirely different category to the medium where you can add savory fillings. Tonight I served the crepe with asparagus and sauteed mushrooms and cheese- lots of Parmesan. Drizzled some truffle oil and it was golden. Cheese is the key with these non-pasta, non fried foods. It reels the kid in and gets him chomping.

I swear. If I get my 50 million I'm going to buy a small warehouse, open long term contracts with local growers (and Southern growers in warm weather states who work organically and sustainably), install a high powered catering level kitchen, hire my Mom (books) and 3 employees, buy a shitload of small bottles, buy a ton of labels, fill out the necessary FDA forms, and open Troy's Baby Food.

There 's no competition. And a huge, country wide need.

If you are hugely capitalized and can move now, feel free to trump me.

On a side note:

Tonight's wine: Owen Roe Cabernet Franc Slide Mountain Vineyard 2005...If I told you this was a modernist Chinon producer in a hot vintage like 2005 you would probably completely agree. Almost no perceptible trace of West Coast super fruit. Alcohol is totally integrated and the fruit is that classic Cab Franc wild black black raspberry. Some bramble and blackberry as well. Bursting fruit, but all within the guise of a very woodsy, very Chinon, style. Recommended.

Vote: ARUGULA

I am making a passionate plea for more folks to embrace arugula. It is such the quintessential Italian green. Toss it with very good olive oil and lemon juice, as a salad. Layer it on pizza. Throw it into a beautiful pasta of pancetta, olive oil, lemon juice, and parmesan. It is an ingredient that speaks immediately of all things Italian. And it adds a spice and heat which makes you think.

And of course, it deserves rose. My current Italian love........Muri Gries Lagrein Rosato 2007...minerally and driven by rock. Good with spicey green things as well...

Wine of the Month: 1959 Richebourg

My uncle-in-law just got married. It was a beautiful ceremony and the wedding party enjoyed 2002 Roumier Clos de la Bussiere and '00 Fevre Chablis Bougros Grand Cru amongst other wines.

But the "Men's Dinner" on Friday night was also something to remember. A legendary lobster bisque made by Hampton's wine professional/chef Peter Hoepfner was to die for, and lamb chops with a garlic-breadcrumb crust were legendary, along with many other treats.

Wines:
1995 Pierre Moncuit Blanc de Blanc Mag
1990 Niellon Chassagne Champs Gains 1er Cru
1999 Raveneau Chablis Chapelot 1er Cru
1999 Raveneau Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru
1982 Dom Leroy Beaune Cuvee Clos des Avaux
1985 Jadot Beaue Cuvee Dames Hostpitaliers
1993 Chapelle Santenay Gravieres 1er Cru
1986 Chapelle Santenay Gravieres 1er Cru
1996 Arnoux Nuits St George Les Poisets 1er Cru
1997 Gaunoux Pommard Grands Epenots 1er Cru
1990 Pierre Bouree Mazys-Chambertin Grand Cru
1993 Trapet Chambertin Grand Cru
1995 Louis Remy Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
2001 Francois Parent Romanee St Vivant Grand Cru
2001 A.F. Gros Pommard 1er Cru (forget vineyard)
1969 DRC Richebourg Grand Cru
1959 DRC Richebourg Grand Cru
1999 Cht Y'Quem

Wine of the night: '59 Richebourg (unavailable)

Not very far behind: 1993 Trapet Chambertin (Available $119bt retail)

Surprise in the mix: 1990 Niellon...as complex as the '59 Richebourg (but white), and 1999 Raveneau Chapelot (like pure white Alba truffle)

Lesson: Have the patience to forget about great Burgundy producers (regardless of what the vintage is panned for)...