On good glassware...

Glassware matters.

Like, a lot.

This is not to say that every time I sit down at a table I'm expecting the finest Riedel stemware. No. What I'm hoping for is an appropriate glass that accurately accompanies the meal, the setting, and the seriousness of the wines served.

For example, it's 8:30pm after a very long day at work. Rumaging through the fridge and I come up with cornichons, prosciutto, marinated olives, some pate, two different cheeses- all to be served along side half a baguette. The wine might be a cru Beaujolais (Christian Bernard's Grands Fers or Clos du Roilette are good examples). The wine is served slightly chilled. I actually don't want a big, brassy, heavy, important glass. A simple bistro tasting glass is perfect.

For simple Italian pizza I actually don't like a wine glass. For me, mentally traveling with the meal I like a small tumbler . It reminds me of a something you might see at local Tuscan trattoria. The wine might be a Toscano Rosso. But with the simplicity of the food, it just tastes more pure in a non-wine glass.

Now, this is not to say that good glassware is not important. Burgundy is Burgundy. And with Burgundy, it simply tastes better in classic big bowled Burg glasses. It just does...Bordeaux and Napa Cab the same...Bordeaux glasses please.

But, if I had to choose one glass to have and use all the time it would be the classic Burgundy glass. Maker, Spieglau- the tried and true, and for me one of the best values. The Burg glasses aren't cheap, but for me they aerate the wine the best and Burgundy is all about the nose. And well, they just seem to make the wine in the glass feel more important. Jayer Hautes Cote de Nuits in a tumbler or a small tasting glass...it just doesn't work.

Where I stand on the Natural Wine debate

Those in the wine business may have recently noticed that a controversy is coming to a head regarding the marketing of the term natural wine. Those not in the wine business probably have never heard of this; it's a term more used by wine wholesalers to define a wine when selling to a restaurateur or retailer, than it is used by a retailer or restaurateur to educate the general public.

So, in Issue 191 of his Wine Advocate, Mr Robert Parker Jr. wrote the following:

"About these “natural,” unmanipulated and pure wines: One of the major scams being foisted on wine consumers is the so-called “Natural’ wine movement. It is not subjected to any government regulations or any definition beyond that of the individual who has spawned the term. Over 95% of the wines written about in this publication are from producers who make under 5,000 cases and are “natural” wines by nearly any rational definition of the word. They are made without additives or enzymes, and usually have minimal sulphur, but they do contain sulphur as they should because otherwise they are unstable, potentially dangerous and impossible to transport because the wines will spoil. In the case of southern Rhône wines, they simply have no make-up whatsoever. There are no color enzymes, no color added, no artificial flavors, very little acidification, etc., etc. In short, they are grapes fermented into wine with 95% or more aged in neutral wood vessels, concrete vats, stainless steel, etc. A tiny percentage does see aging in new oak casks, or more typically in the southern Rhône, the larger 600-liter demimuids. These are natural wines – make no mistake about it. They are also wines that work wonders with an assortment of cuisines because of the absence of new oak and any makeup."

This position has set off a fire storm of debate about the use of the term natural wine to market wines; and more over whether natural wines even exist at all. Currently there is a 4 page thread (and growing) on the Wine Advocate's Bulletin Board which contains posts from major importer/distributor owners, collectors, wine drinkers, and even Mr Parker himself raking over the coals of this debate.

Where do I stand on this issue?

I do believe in natural wine as a term to describe the style in which one chooses to farm, make, and bottle his/her wines.

I do believe that a more pure, terroir expressive quality can be achieved by attempting to go this route in one's production.

I do believe that this route is incredibly risky in terms of a standardization of product; and I believe that as long as the consumer purchases the wine knowing that it was made in a natural way then the consumer takes this risk on their shoulders (I also believe it is the restaurateur's/retailer's job to make sure the consumer is made aware.)

I do not believe all natural wine is superior to wines made with corrections in the cellar. I believe that the quality I point to in point #2 is totally on a producer by producer, and in many times a wine by wine, basis.

And that's where I stand on the issue.

At the end of the day, it's a wonderful product that enhances the table, our food, and hopefully our lives. But, it's still just fermented grapes. If you like it- drink it. If you don't, drink something else.

Eataly...you gotta go

Hats off to Joe, Mario and company. A client of mine raved heavy about Eataly. I had heard of it- didn't think much of it. And for the first time in a long time, the hype lived up to the hype.

Think Disney World for Italian food and wine lovers. Seriously. It's awe inspiring. It's fun. It's cool. It's convenient. It's got huge energy. It's affordable. It's quality. It's arguably the greatest commercial example of a living and breathing culture of the table (Italian table) that I've ever seen.

I was blown away. You gotta go...

Eataly

200 5th Ave
New York, NY 10010

P.S.- If you read the reviews you will be scratching your head. Trust me, just go...it's worth it.

The Rules and Etiquette of the Wine Trade Tasting

Sorry, I've been MIA for awhile. Craziness. Drama. Stuff. Life. I won't get into it. Anyways........I'm back! And I have a lot to write about. Food (of course!). Wine (you know). Glassware (cause I have something to say about glassware now). And the daily grind at the table...

But, before I get into all of those things let me start with the obvious for all of you industry folks out there. In the industry, the Fall and the Spring are the traditional "tasting periods". Importers and distributors will put on these huge trade tastings for the shops and restaurants in advance of the traditional buying season. Huge, as in 500+ wines at a show huge...as in way too many to make deciding and buying even practical.

Anyways, for years the industry itself has collectively- socially- voiced some real problems in tasting etiquette. In essence, there are 'understood' rules to coming to, and participating in, these tastings and yet each and every year many seem to be oblivious to these tasting norms which interferes with the rest of us trying to politely taste. I know this because literally after each and every tasting I've ever attended, every single one of my clients spends no less than 10 minutes on "that/those person(s)..."

So, I'm taking it upon myself to lay down some rules. Thus,

The Rules and Etiquette of the Wine Trade Tasting

(in no particular order or importance)

* Always keep your opinions to yourself (a wine you may hate, someone may love).

* Always compliment the winemaker or winery regardless of your opinion of their wine (they spent an entire year making this product, you may not like it, but you must respect that.)

* Always observe a two foot personal boundary of the tasting table (offer your glass for a taste, receive a pour, step back two feet to allow others to receive a pour as well).

* Always spit. Getting drunk at a tasting is unprofessional.

* When spitting, lean in within 6 inches of the spittoon and controllably spit so as to not create a backsplash for yourself or others.

* The food, regardless of how extravagant it may be, is a courtesy not a right. Never criticize it, the purpose of the tasting is to taste the wines.

* Always be incredibly polite to the winery / winemaker...In essence, they are artists who have made a product and are offering it to you. It may not be to your taste, but at least recognize their work.

* Whenever possible, work your physical body to keep the tasting table in front of you clear and open so that others may come forward and receive a pour.

* Bringing 'friends' who are not in the business is largely frowned upon. However, if this person truly does help you make accurate and current buying decisions then this is acceptable. There is an 'understanding' in this...

* It is always appreciated that tastings be used for business first, pleasure second (in essence, coming to a tasting to simply taste the most extravagant / expensive wine, and that's it, is frowned upon).

And that's all of the rules I can think of right now. I have spoken with many of my clients over more than half a decade regarding this subject. I welcome your input. Place your comments below.

Are you supporting your local pork store?

One of the great American past time hold overs from days long gone by is the Italian-American pork store. I was recently reminded of this last week when I decided to visit for a coffee and biscotti (although they call it bis-cot; it sounds cooler).

Anyways, I've always been nervous when it comes to prepared foods, but the Italian pork stores seem to have the finest- whether I was in East Hampton, Hoboken, Manhattan, or Brooklyn. The quality is outstanding!

So, I saw some freshly made pizza dough. Some freshly made, in-store, mozzarella. Some freshly made sauce. Voila! Pizza.

It was amazing. And the total cost for two huge pies produced was under $20.

In short- go see your local Italian pork store. Buy some dough, sauce, and mozz. You will be getting insane value and quality for your money.

1% For The Planet

I started writing this blog awhile back really for me, not you. It was a means of voicing my personal cultural philosophy...a WAY that was deeply grounded in the embrace of food/wine/the table/family-friends/ and all of the accouterments that make this experience the richest it can be.

The accouterments are the food, the wine, the glassware, etc...And the wine I sell. And the more and more I dive deeper into these accouterments the more I find myself looking for things that are 100% original and authentic. Products that are pieces of true craftsmanship and are 100% filled with soul. For me, it's more and more important that there's a related experience through the accouterment product....that the fish was hand-harvested, that the wine came from a biodynamically farmed estate, that the flowers were picked from someone's garden. In short, it's about care.

And in the end, this concept of care doesn't just stop at care of the table. The sourcing of care must descend all the way back to the source of the product- the earth.

Last year, I stumbled upon a trailer for the film 180 South (http://www.180south.com/) by Chris Malloy. Patagonia Clothing Company was heavily involved in the movie and I eventually found myself reading quite a bit about Yvon Chouinard and Patagonia. For me, Chouinard has become a proverbial business mentor. His company is worth hundreds of million of dollars and yet it maintains the feel of a company that was just created by some kids out of a college dorm room. It is anti-establishment in every way, yet feels free enough to sell millions of dollars worth of clothing to Joe and Jane America every day. And the beauty in all of this is that they haven't, nor ever will, sell out. They are 100% authentic, soulfull, and sincerre in everything they do.

One of the tenants of Patagonia has become a staunch aggressive stance on pro-environmental issues. In fact, they have become the first members of a group called 1% For The Planet in order to actively care for the planet.

And that's where I'll tie all of this together. To love the table, to love the food, and the wine, and all that is the dining experience- and life for that matter- and simply ignore the environmental problems around us is simply arrogance. It's not dreaming. If you think otherwise, go to the Gulf coast and ask some blue collar fisherman what they think about the importance of environmentalism...Cause that could be us Northeasterners, or Westcoasters, or whoever next week!

And so....

If you own a business, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND that you go and visit Patagonia's Tin Shed (http://www.patagonia.com/web/us/tinshed/index.jsp?ln=263). Click on the link for 1% For The Planet. Listen to Yvon and co.

Once you do- and you think about the Gulf- it becomes a no brainer.

What I look for in wine

"What do you look for in wine?"

Being in the business, I'm asked this a lot. I like transparent wines. I want to taste where they come from. I want simple wines, but wines that are so pure, so authentic, that their complexity and depth is whimsically hidden by how simply they can come across. It's a little tough to explain.

I recently came across a quote which I think sums up the way I want my wine:

"Have you ever thought, not only about the airplane but whatever man builds, that all of man's industrial efforts, all his computations and calculations, all the nights spent working over draughts and blueprints, invariably culminate in the production of a thing whose sole and guiding principle is the ultimate principle of simplicity?

It is as if there were a natural law which ordained that to achieve this end, to refine the curve of a piece of furniture, or a ship's keel, or the fuselage of an airplane, until gradually it partakes of the elementary purity of the curve of the human breast or shoulder, there must be experimentation of several generations of craftsmen. In anything at all, perfection is finally attained not when there is no longer anything to add, but when there is no longer anything to take away, when a body has been stripped down to its nakedness."

-Antoine de Saint Exupéry

I like it when I taste a wine and it's so pure, so authentic that there's nothing for me to wonder about it. I just exist next to it, it's that deep.

Truth in Wine Importing

I have to say that I do work in an exciting industry. It's not the CIA, but terrorism is an issue in importing wine. Our South American buyer sent this to me the other day...

"There is always a first for everything; our container from Argentina was stolen at port in Buenos Aires earlier today. At gun point, the driver was asked to walk away from the trailer; the thieves drove away with all of the wine.

I’m trying to get the wineries to prepare the same orders as quickly as possible."

So, if you're ever frustrated as to why the wine you love is out of stock, please keep in mind that piracy and many many other anomalies are potential issues.

The proper way to serve corn.

So simple, but I have to be a proponent.

Go buy some corn. DO NOT SHUCK THE CORN!

Fire up the grill. Put the corn on and grill them (husks and all) for about 10-15 minutes until the outside of the husks look well charred...like the corn kind of subliminally looks cooked.

Pull from grill and put on platter. Wait. Let the corns cool off some. After 10 minutes or so, shuck the corns. Finish by rolling the cooked corn (shucked by now) in salt, pepper, and walnut oil.

Serve with a village Maconnais wine.

Belons

They'll haunt me forever. Yellow-greenish. Earthy. Muddy. Musky. They drink of river bank. Nickel sears the back corner of your mouth for hours. More earth and estuary revolving over and over your tongue. Mushrooms. Intense dark mud.

By all accounts this was the weirdest ocean creatures I've ever eaten. I'm actually not sure I enjoyed eating it.

But, I'm still tasting it and I can stop thinking about the tasting experience.

In his work A Geography of Oysters Rowan Jacobsen writes, "Belons are off-putting and overwhelming, like an anchovy dipped in zinc. Most people can't take them. But if you can take them, you may find that very soon you can't stop taking them. You will be on your way to joining the cadre of Belon addicts."

Not quite sure I'm a Belon addict yet. But, I'm definitely way interested in a really really funky way...

PS- requires wine!

Saffron Risotto with Rock Shrimp and Peas

Saffron Risotto with Rock Shrimp and Peas

First, go out to your garden and gather some herbs. I got some fresh chives, fresh parsley, and fresh basil. Wash them. Dry them. Chop finely. Set aside.

Get a large pan on your stove and heat it up. While heating, take a can of chicken stock and pour it into a sauce pan and heat on low. Dice an entire onion. Peel a garlic clove. Get out some frozen peas- set aside. Make sure you have some saffron. And dice up some bacon. Take out rock shrimp and salt and pepper them. Get 1 cup of Arborio Rice. Have butter handy. Finely grade about a cup of Parmesan cheese.

Add bacon to the large pot and cook to browned/crisp. Remove bacon to plate lined with paper towel. With bacon grease still in pan, add rock shrimp. Cook to almost finished- 2 minutes. Remove shrimp to plate. Add a tablespoon of butter and melt. Add onion and peeled garlic clove. Sweat down onion. Add rice and saffron. Stir to coat rice and spread in saffron.

Pan should be quite hot by now. Add a decent amount of stock- to almost cover all ingredients. Stir to deglaze pan and stir in all ingredients. Cook down liquid, then add a little bit more. There's a feed/starve thing happening here with the rice as it grows. Continue to feed/starve rice (if you run out of stock, use water) and once the rice tastes plump but still crunchy at center, stop adding water. Turn heat to low.

Wait until the water starts to get eaten up. Add another dollop of butter. Then start adding cheese- add some, stir it in, add some some more, stir it in- until finished. Watch thickness as cheese is thickener here. Check for seasoning. Salt if needed. Add your peas. Stir in and let cook for a couple of minutes. Add your herb fines. Stir in.

Serve. Sprinkle with bacon crisps.

Wine: Dierberg Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley 2006...or 2007

Puerto Rican Truffles- Mobile!

Puerto Rican land crabs...on this island they are the official Caribbean mobile living truffles.

We rented a house on the beach in Rincon this past week. To get to it you drove down this long driveway that was bordered by jungle and grassy marsh. And each day we noticed a bunch of cars pulling up to the edge of our house and these very rustic looking Puerto Rican locals would get out and head into the woods. They were secretive about what they were doing, quiet, and we're carrying machetes.

Finally, my wife just walked up to one and said- "What are you guys doing back there?" Honestly, I was torn between fear for her and amazement that she had the guts to just walk up them (you know, considering the machete thing and all...).

The man was actually a medical assistant at a hospital, totally well educated, spoke English perfectly and all of that even though he was covered in biting red ants, flies, and other bugs. He said he and his cousins had been working these fields for quite some time- patiently checking their traps each day for land crabs. They're fast, nasty, and they bite badly- as was displayed by his bleeding thumb.

A bushel of 20 or so was $40 wholesale. And so, the next day he came back with one. He was very excited for us to try them. You have to boil them a couple of times to get out the dirt and piss he said (yes...piss), but then he promised they would be amazing.

How were they? Think eel crossed with porcinis. It's a very earthy palate. Not sure I liked them, but I know I didn't not like them. The sofrito verde I served them with pretty much melded the funky earthiness out of them. Brought it back to more of a "crab" palate.

Regardless, in Puerto Rico- this is it! The creme de la creme- the best. The Caribbean truffles: Puerto Rican land crabs.

It's time for Smells Like Teen Spirit again...

Am I alone in saying that food/wine are in a rut? It almost feels like that period in the late '80s for music- at the end of Guns & Roses' time- when music was just all around boring. And then came Smells like Teen Spirit...

I dined at an excellent restaurant the other night- Mosaic in St James, Long Island. It reminded me a little of Cesare in Barolo as both Cesare and the chefs at Mosaic don't do a la carte menus. Both sets of chef(s) start their days at the market and then build their restaurant's menu from scratch every single day.

I have to say that if I were a restauranteur I would be shaking my head. How does the business model work? How do you control costs consistently? What about the regulars who come weekly to dine on their favorite standard dishes? Etc...

But as a diner, this rocks. I can cook. Well, I think I can cook all right, but let's just say I can get around the kitchen and make something edible without much stress. And left with enough time and resources I can probably tackle Keller recipes all right. So, going out to dine is more theatre for me. I want two things: I want to be fed (I hate 1 ounce portions) and I want my oral eyes to be opened. I want to be wow'd.

And one more thing- I don't want to choose. When I go to a restaurant I'm in someone else's kitchen, not my own...I want to eat what they think is good.

And so, all of this ranting and raving for a single statement....Restauranteurs, my perfect restaurant: You show up. There is one price. And then the chef just starts sending small plates- lots of them. If wine list- awesome- older vintages please, priced well. If not, a beautiful by-the-carafe rouge and blanc. Simple. Fresh, and pure. Both chilled.

That's it. Give me Picasso, Monet, Van Gogh....but please not Hallmark.

Maybe it's time for Smells Like Teen Spirit again?

Trust Yourself

I was emailing back and forth with someone today about wine. This person revealed that they thought their palate was un-sophisticated and maybe even un-worthy of tasting through great wines.

Hogwash!

Let me just say this to the world. Sadly, there are those in the wine world that are exclusionary and treat wine like it's an insider's fraternity- where only the special bottles are opened for those who will appreciate them. I disagree one hundred percent.

All I need to see is a general interest. If you enjoy wine..if you enjoy food...I could honestly care less about how much you know. I believe wine and food are about the relationship- about the sharing of a moment over a great dish, a great glass. Where you come from does not matter. What matters is that we are both in the moment and participating in the shared enjoyment of the dish/glass.

So, please...if you ever are reading my blog, food blogs, wine blogs, or food/wine stuff in general...never, ever feel as though you are not worthy of appreciating the food and wine that I(we) write about.

The relationship always comes first...after all, some of the best wines I've ever had have been inexpensive and unsophisticated...but always in the right company and at the right time...and they have blown my mind.

The "IT" Albarino

How was Spain?

Well, here I am sitting on the back of a boat ("I'm on boat...on a boat...Never thought I'd be on a boat..."- see Adam Samberg) half way to Nirvana slurping oysters with lemon juice and drinking what- in my opinion- is the next "IT" Rias Baixas Albarino.

I first noticed Lagar de Costa over last year's Thanksgiving dinner. I liked the label- isn't that how we all find many new "it" wines? Anyways, I remember remarking to myself that I loved the combination of power, grace, elegance, and minerality. It was a wine that took the best of all that Albarino had to offer and also made it semi-affordable.

So, after meeting the Costa fam, and slurping osyters with them and friends on the back of a boat...well, I'm now head over heels.

Folks, Lagar de Costa. Pound for pound....Well, ya'll know I can't use "the best"...but, if I could......

For me, it's the "IT" Albarino.

FLOUNDER

I live in Springs, New York. My client base extends all the way to Queens so on any given day I might have a 2.5 hr commute home. Today wasn't so bad...1.5 hours home. The wifey called about an hour out and said she'd bought flounder and she was starving and she wanted to be fed ASAP upon my arrival. My recipe...

FLOUNDER w/ capers

(This should take 15-20 minutes tops)

Take a long saute pan and put it over the burner on high. Take out flounder fillets and salt/pepper both sides. Leave. Take out shallow wide bowl and fill with small amount of milk. Take out small plate and fill with flour. Check to see if saute pan is hot hot. It should be hot hot by now. Add veggie oil and butter. Melt. Douse flounder fillet in milk, then thoroughly dredge in flour- both sides. Shake off excess. Put in saute pan and cook. Cook until cooked meat seems 2/3 up side of fish. Flip. Cook for 3 minutes or so more on other side. Take fillet out of pan and rest on plate. If more fillets cook them same way (adding more oil if needs be). Once done, pour off oil. Wipe out pan with paper towel. Add half stick butter, 2 tablespoons of capers with juice and the juice of 1 lemon. Reduce until butter is browned. Add finely chopped parseley if you want.

Plate flounder fillet. Sauce with caper butter.

Wife (or husband, or loved one) will thank you later.

WINE: Paul Paquet Saint Veran La Grande Bruyere 2007...amazing yeast/lemon/honey notes

Re-Learning Bordeaux

First trip of the year and I'm about to head over to Bordeaux. I haven't been back since I worked there in 2003. I am excited, yet I am apprehensive. Bordeaux, to me, can be great and exalting, but it can also be a harbinger of the worst in wine as well. Napa Valley over here mirrors this troubling dichotomy. I remember in 2003 having lunch with some heavy weight Bordelaise company CEO- the guy owned over a dozen properties and many more designer wine labels- and I listened to him as all he discussed was distribution, and branding, and selling product.

No doubt, selling product, whether you are Coke or whether you are the smallest little farmer selling a couple of hand picked organics eggs each week, cannot be ignored. But, I think there's a "right way" to do it. Each product, and in wine- each wine, each estate- has its own merits. Every time you visit an estate there's something special that's happening there that makes it different than the others and unique inside a larger portfolio. Price structuring is not that difference- although talk to many marketers, listen to that old Bordeaux CEO, and that's what they talk about. Consumers, more importantly people, could give a shit less about price structuring. What they and I (cause yes, I buy my share of wine and eggs too!) care about is authenticity, soul, value, and a sense of connection to why a product, and/or a wine, is created.

A distinctly remember being in Napa almost 5 years ago. Napa trips are long and often grueling because it's a place wrought with a lot of the above- the negative side especially. And at the end of the trip we visited this very small producer way up on Spring Mountain. The winemaker was cool. The family that owned the property was incredibly wealthy. There was a pool there and horses. And we were tasting through the estate's lineup over lunch with the winemaker and the wife. I was very tired, and after hearing all about "how well we think this varietal does here" and "how delicious these wines are" I finally lost my patience and asked- "So, why did you make this wine?" You would have thought a bomb exploded at the end of this table. But, hats of to the winemaker. She dropped the marketing BS and immediately moved into the story of the site she was working, her passion for old vine Petit Verdot and Cab Franc and what she thought those varietals would bring to a Napa Cab, and where she wanted to take the wine so that it would age with grace and beauty. Obviously, I respect her for that.

Anyways, I am excited to head over to Bordeaux. St Emilion is an amazing town- arguably the most beautiful in all of France. And I'm going to see Jean Luc Thunevin. The Anti-Bordelaise. What am I most excited about? I want to hear Jean Luc talk about the estate's he works with, and I want to hear him talk about why he works with them. I want to see behind the curtains and get a look at what makes Bordeaux special again.

Help!

So, the wife has me slow cooking. I'm not a fan- I must admit. By nature, I am an absolute classicist. Cheat sheets and corner cutting have never done it for me. Plain and simple, I'm a work hard and earn your keep kind of guy...And so with food, if I want a braised beef, I'll use a Creuset and braise the brisket for 5 hours or so the old fashioned way.

So, I slow cooked some chicken. It came out bland, but I did make the huge mistake of not browning it first. Hey, you learn.

But, I guess my big problem with the slow cooker is the loss of the relationship between dish and cook. You stick all of the ingredients in the pot. You close the lid. You open the lid 4 or 9 hours later. Voila. Cooked food. Sorry, but for me the creation of a dish- watching it progress into something- has always been a big part of what the enjoyment of food is all about. Carmelizing the meat. Seeing the sofrito come together. The deglaze. The seasoning. The finishing fat. These decisions and others are for me what make cooking an art, and to take that away- or maybe more accurately minimize them, simplify them- I don't know...

I guess its better than microwaving, yes?

So, I toss it back to the reader. Slow cooking. You a fan? If you are, tips on keeping some soul in the food?

A Requirement: My New Orleans

First, for any skeptics out there (and I am one of you), I am receiving $0.00 for this. This comes from the heart.

Not since Marcella Hazan and Richard Olney have I seen a "cookbook" done so well. Yes, heavy, I know. To be short and to the point John Besh's new work My New Orleans is a requirement in your culinary library.

I picked it up two weeks ago at Borders for about $45. Yes, I was initially caught by the vivid pictures. (By the way, to any aspiring food/cookbook authors out there, we eat with our eyes- include really good photos please! Only Marcella and Pierre can get away without them.) But, then I dove into the work itself and I have to say- the guy transports you into the back streets and old family backyards of his hometown. You leaf through his book and you might as well be walking through Antebellum houses eating beignets and smelling sauteed andouille.

Recipe-wise this is the real deal. There's no corner cutting. There's no quick fixes. This is bon femme New Orleans in its most original form, and I'm talking down to the seasonality of when they use citrus and tomatoes. It is highly detailed into the philosophy of New Orlean's cooking and not only adds cultural context, but also backs up the chemistry and ancestral foundations of why decisions are made in recipes; it's ridiculously thorough.

For the Super Bowl I ended making his Jamabalaya. Amazing. The aromatics alone blow any New Orleans' Jamabalya recipe I've ever tasted away. And because Besh is a huge fan of layered cooking (a la Hazan style) the depth and complexity in his dishes are amazing. Let's put it this way, my wife was scarfing down andouille sausage. Yep. Saw it with my own eyes...:)

And to sing this work's praises some more- it takes a cuisine that this 'yankee' thought of as simple and fun and makes it haute. It elevates it into an art form in a way a great French chef can elevate a simple vinaigrette. For me, I think Besh has left us with a tome for the American culinary world. A new bible.

And if this guy doesn't get a Beard award for this, then Beard awards don't mean anything anymore...

Anyways, My New Orleans by John Besh. Amazon has it at $29.70. I still think it's worth $45. And I'd pay $45 tomorrow for it.

Christian Troy's Sanity is found in Pommes Chateau Chinon

I found myself in a client's shop today discussing the conditions/trials/tribulations of being a young father. Sleep deprivation was brought up. Management of wife expectations was discussed. The ability to balance work/life pressures was surely at the top of the list. And I...probably like every mid-30s guy with kids...am finding solace in late night solo dinners.

I start work early...it should be 5:30, but with current sleep deprivation its around 7:30. I finish work at around 8. I come home, and the kids are headed up to bed, the house is settling, and somewhere around 9-9:30 I get to cook dinner. I know, physiologically this is an absolutely horrible time to "enjoy" food. I should eat an apple and go to bed, a good nutritionist would say. But then I would not be enjoying life...

Tonight is a classic example. Started work at 8- very late, but was shot from night before. On road all day and finally got home at 8....pm. Came home and immediately spent some time with the family. Hugged my son and read him some books, etc...And then around 9-9:30 as my wife took him upstairs to bed (my wife rocks!) I cooked a classic Bisteca Fiorentina with Pommes Chateau Chinon.

Sat down. Drank a glass of Cab. Nothing amazing, but good. And ate. Solace in the table. And the day is done.

I actually use a modified version of Pommes Cht Chinon. See below:

Take 1 large potato. Peel it. Grate it with a large cheese grater. In small handfulls, take the potato gratings and over a sink, squeeze out the water until the left gratings are relatively dry. Put them all in a mixing bowl. Add some parmesan cheese. Salt. Pepper. Add one egg. And using your hands mix the ingredients together like you were making homemade hamburger patties. Form into small flat patties. You must squeeze them tightly sometimes to get them to stick to form.

Heat a cast iron skillet to high. Add vegetable oil and one pat of butter. Add potato patties you just made. Cook like you are cooking pancakes. Brown on both sides and be sure to cook through but not to burn. When done, transfer to plate lined with paper towel to catch excess oil.

If you're not listening to great music while tasting great wine...it's all lost...

2006 Chateauneuf

Lunar Tasting Group met last night. Wines tasted:

Rayas Fonsalette 2004

Prefert Cuvee Charles Giraud 2006

Amandiere Cuvee Imperiale 2006

Clos St Jean Vieilles Vignes 2006

Vieux Lazaret 2006

Vieux Telegraph 2006 (2 separate bottles)

La Roquette 2005

Vieille Julienne 2006

Marcoux 2005

For me, the heads and tales wine above them all was the Vieille Julienne. Simply showing amazing right now...forrest floor, truffles. My exact note reads, "walking through forrest in October hunting black truffles..."

For the most part the 2006s were totally shut down. They were blocky and heavy, and overall I found myself worrying if their fruit there that would eventually show itself, or were the wines all tannin and structure? They're in an awkward stage and are solidly vins du garde right now.

On a side note, the La Roquette- which is considered a value Chateauneuf- showed beautifully. Little more meaty and heavy than the Julienne, but lovely and excellent considering the price.

Carrots

Ok, so I automatically admit to borrowing/stealing from Ed Brown. I saw him on the Today Show and he whipped out these roast carrots. Then I proceeded to watch Matt and crew knock these thing back like shots at a college homecoming and I thought, "Mental note kid..."

The carrots by themselves are stupid easy. And as far as I remember, Brown only finished his carrots with parsley, so I think I can take ownership of this full recipe. Regardless, wifey declared this the finest side dish I've ever made. Little man wolfed them down, and I enjoyed half a dozen myself. In short, they are quite tasty (and simple to make).

Roast Carrots with Sherry Vinaigrette

First and foremost, buy good carrots. This means, stems and leaves attached. It means not pre-packaged in a plastic bag. It means organic. And in a perfect world you even know the farm they came from. Bring them home. Cut off the stems (leave a little stem). Wash them to get all the dirt of them. DO NOT peel them. Take some paper towels out and roll them around in the towels until the carrots are reasonably dry.

Preheat the oven to 375. Convection on if possible.

Find yourself a large cookie sheet (or some form of other worthy pan that will easily fit all of the carrots in.) Lay the carrots down. Lazily drizzle a couple glugs of olive oil over the carrots. Crack pepper them. Douse them in generous sea salt. Roll the carrots around to make sure they're all well covered. Stick them in the oven. Generally time that at 30 minutes to start watching them.

Meanwhile...in a non-reactive bowl (ie- ceramic...stainless steel does something with acid and ingredients which I simply do not know how to explain, but whatever it is...it's not tasty) add a bunch of very finely chopped shallots, a pinch of finely chopped garlic (just a pinch please here), cracked pepper, sea salt, a dollop of Maille mustard or Grey Poupon (ie- not Goldens or Frenches, etc), and a good squig of Spanish Sherry Vinegar (good sherry vinegar please). Stir until the mustard and vinegar mix to together and the mustard is dissolved. Let sit 10 minutes.

30 minutes passes. Take a look at the carrots. They should be shrunk. The ends should have started to caramelize (ie- turn brown). The skin should look wrinkled. The smell should be wonderful. The point of pulling them out is a feel thing. Err on a couple more minutes if in doubt. Pull them. Let them sit for a couple of minutes.

Once you've pulled the carrots, turn to your vinaigrette bowl. Add 2 good glugs of vegetable oil and with a whisk beat the vinaigrette vigorously until it comes together. Once it comes together, add one good glug of olive oil. Again, beat to reform a vinaigrette. It should be thick with chunks of shallot/garlic in it.

Plate carrots. Sauce with vinaigrette. Watch the light of God descend upon you as all who taste bow down at your culinary thrown. Yes, I'm in a playful mood tonight...

Wine? They were delicious with a bottle of Javier Sanz Villa Narcisca Rueda Verdejo 2008 (Spanish white).