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Thursday, April 8, 2010

It's time for Smells Like Teen Spirit again...


Am I alone in saying that food/wine are in a rut? It almost feels like that period in the late '80s for music- at the end of Guns & Roses' time- when music was just all around boring. And then came Smells like Teen Spirit...

I dined at an excellent restaurant the other night- Mosaic in St James, Long Island. It reminded me a little of Cesare in Barolo as both Cesare and the chefs at Mosaic don't do a la carte menus. Both sets of chef(s) start their days at the market and then build their restaurant's menu from scratch every single day.

I have to say that if I were a restauranteur I would be shaking my head. How does the business model work? How do you control costs consistently? What about the regulars who come weekly to dine on their favorite standard dishes? Etc...

But as a diner, this rocks. I can cook. Well, I think I can cook all right, but let's just say I can get around the kitchen and make something edible without much stress. And left with enough time and resources I can probably tackle Keller recipes all right. So, going out to dine is more theatre for me. I want two things: I want to be fed (I hate 1 ounce portions) and I want my oral eyes to be opened. I want to be wow'd.

And one more thing- I don't want to choose. When I go to a restaurant I'm in someone else's kitchen, not my own...I want to eat what they think is good.

And so, all of this ranting and raving for a single statement....Restauranteurs, my perfect restaurant: You show up. There is one price. And then the chef just starts sending small plates- lots of them. If wine list- awesome- older vintages please, priced well. If not, a beautiful by-the-carafe rouge and blanc. Simple. Fresh, and pure. Both chilled.

That's it. Give me Picasso, Monet, Van Gogh....but please not Hallmark.

Maybe it's time for Smells Like Teen Spirit again?




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