Green Peppers

I find myself embracing the green bell pepper more and more these days.

Can't really explain it. But, there's this depth of flavor that it adds to a lot dishes- kind of like a bridge between the green of parseley and fresh herbs, and the earth of broccoli and dark greens. Maybe it's Winter and the cold?

Tonight I made a Spanish torta with cheese, onions, garlic, green pepper, potato, and mushrooms. Had a glass of day 2 Cartagena Sauvignon- which was freaking singing by the way, take note of this producer- and the wine, egg, and pepper went together famously.

It's funny, in wine green bell pepper is considered an unwanted flavor- a flaw. I'm beginning to wonder if that's wrong, or if I'm just getting older...

Basque Chicken

A simply marvelous dish the other week: Basque styled chicken.

As usual, I headed back to the study of my wife's grandfather Pierre Franey for the fundamentals. In leafing through a number of his books I discovered some themes within his technique and sauces. There is definitely a Spanish, or Iberian, or Basque theme- whatever you want to call it really- but it comes when the classic French saute structure sees a hefty dose of garlic, both green and red peppers, tomatoes, olives and some form of heat- chiles, red pepper flakes, etc...

Here is the recipe below. I actually added a nice hefty dollop of Tabasco in at the end which really deepened the flavor.

You would think that you should serve something like Basque Chicken with a Basque red, yes? Well, maybe, but the Basque region is known for its whites called Txakolina. This is super crispy white made from the grape Hondarribi Zuri. Lemon acid, a little spritz, and a high saline quotient make this a no brainer when oystering, or chowing on shellfish.

So, your next thought might be a Rioja, or Ribera del Duero- classic Spanish reds. I would also pass on these. Garlic, olive oil and tomatoes scream the Mediterranean for me and that puts us closer to Barcelona and with the power of the sauce and the heat of the red pepper or Tabasco I would want a raw, earthy, sun roasted wine. In Spain, I'd look at the Monastrells of Alicante- the peninsula that sticks out in the Med, south of Barcelona. I'd also highly recommending heading North into the Languedoc-Rousillon area of France. (I actually had an amazing Costieres de Nimes, Chateau la Baume, with my Basque Chicken.) Anyways...the preparation is classic and can be done with pork, chicken, lamb, or steak...Make sure to adjust pan roasting time based on how long you need to cook the meat.

Basque Chicken (as adopted from Pierre Franey)

Take out a large roasting dish, a huge Creuset pot with a heavy lid will do. Put it on the stove and set the heat to high. Turn the oven on to 400 degrees. Take 2 chicken breasts (skin on) and lightly dredge them in flour. Add oil to the pot and add chicken breasts skin side down. Salt and pepper them. Let them cook until the skin has caramelized and is golden brown. Once brownness is achieved, flip the breasts and cook 2-3 minutes on the other side. At this point, the skin should looked cooked, but the meat will probably still look pretty raw.

While your browning the chicken do your chopping and prepping.

Chop up 1 large onion.

Chop up 3 cloves of garlic.

Chop up 1 green pepper.

Chop up 1 red pepper.

Get some pitted olives.

Open a can of San Marzano tomatoes and mash the whole tomatoes with a fork so that they're rather broken up.

Open up your beef stock and make sure its ready.

Make sure you have some white wine.

Check to make sure you have your spices- bay leaf, dried thyme, salt pepper.

Getting back to the chicken. After those 2-3 minutes on the meat side, take chicken out of the pot and set aside. Add onions and garlic to the pot. Stir around for about 2 minutes to coat. Add peppers to the pot. Cook about 3-4 minutes (let them start to cook.) Then add bay leaf and large pinch of dried thyme. Make sure mixture is thoroughly cooking by now- then hit it with a shot of white wine. Deglaze the pan by scraping up the bottom. Put the chicken breasts back in the pot. Add the tomatoes now. Add a shot of beef stock- not too much...you want it to marry with everything, not water it all down. Add your Tabasco now. Add the olives. Salt and pepper some more.

Now, cover the pot with the lid and stick it in the oven (or per Pierre, you can let it cook on the stove if you don't want to start your oven.) For chicken, I like it really roasting for about 20 minutes. The flavors will come together and the chicken should be just done. Pork, maybe 25 minutes.

Make some rice.

Plate with rice and add breast over rice with sauce on top. Maybe finish with chopped parseley.

Serve with a Mediterranean red.

A denouncement of The Best

I finally have taken my first week off in over a year. Feel's good. A little weird I must admit to downshift, but good. The reason was the birth of my daughter Arabella. A miracle and an absolute gift. You can tell I'm smitten and in love, can't you...:)

Two things caught my eye this week that I wanted to share though...

The first was the 2009 Winter Holiday Season Catalog from Patagonia. Normally clothes catalogs are nice to flip through for about 30 seconds but that's it for me. This one is widely different and I think Yves Choinard and Patagonia have created the perfect business meets life trip/story I've ever seen. The catalog is featured around the release of the Malloy movie 180 South and is a re-creation of the original trip done by pals Yves Choinard and Doug Tompkins traveling from California to Chile, and finishing in Patagonia. The trip is re-created by surfer/adventurer/mountain climber Jeff Johnson. I've yet to see the film but it looks amazing. A complete purist view of the world venturing to one of the purest places in the world...for no reason other than to do a trip.

And my magazine trolling also saw me looking at a lot of, well, magazines. And I began to notice something. The word, or better yet, the expression- "the best" is used way too much in our society. The Best. What does that mean?

If I write and tell you that a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is "the best" does that mean that every other Napa Cab pails in comparison?

If you read a restaurant review and the writer says that a restaurant makes "the best" butternut squash soup does that mean that every time you go to another restaurant and order butternut squash soup you know you are ordering a second rate soup?

I am red handed in this. For years I've used this phrase to sell a lot of wine. My daily emailed offering constantly included the phrase "the best". The Best Chianti for Under $15. The Best 10 Wines for the Holidays. The Best White Burgundy Value. What does the phrase do- it certainly catches your attention which is why it's used so much. It's why I used it. But is it honest? Even after honestly extolling the virtues of what may be an absolutely excellent choice White Burgundy-one that may be at a quality much higher than most of its peers- is it right or correct to say that that wine is "The Best" White Burgundy?

No. It is not.

The Culture of the Table is about the complete embrace of life and relationships centering around what happens at the table. Each experience table side is different, carrying its own background and context, and for that reason there never is any best. There are fantastic moments, great highs, unbelievable treasured meals, and magnificent wines...But without the people with you at the place in time, with the back drop of the setting, and the circumstances of the day...nothing tastes and feels as good. In essence, embracing The Culture of the Table is embracing a living terroir very much like Jeff Johnson embraced life by traveling down to Patagonia.

So, why the big diatribe and all of that about this phrase that basically means nothing but sells a ridiculous amount of product? It is because from this point on I have decided to never use that phrase again. It's not honest. It carries no integrity. It does not tell the story of the table. And it explains nothing of a living terroir.

Embrace your relationships and the moment- cherish them. They are the foundation of the Table.

Happy Thanksgiving. All my best to your family.

Christian

Embrace poverty!

Maybe it's Winter, but I find myself moving more and more into my Lyonnais hole. As all know, Lyon is the Gastronomic center of France- many regard it as the food capital of the Western world. It's famous for its famous chefs- Paul Bocuse, Jacques Pepin, and Daniel Boulod amongst countless others. But, it's not the haute cuisine that inspires me. It's the brasseries, the bistros, and cafes. Dishes involving pork, braised "off" cuts of meat, and the baguette as the spoon of choice. Mustard is more important than salt and pepper- table side.

The recession is over I guess, but times are still tough. Me? I'm celebrating the times. I'm re-discovering pork. I made my first mornay sauce last week and yes, I need some work, but I found it amazing that a little flour, butter, cream, eggs, and cheese could elevate broccoli in such a way.

Lentils have become fashionable in my household.

And in wine, I find myself enamored with the Grand Crus of Lyon- Les Crus de Beaujolais. These are the best of the best, finest wines produced by artisanal growers working traditionally. And many blow the pants off of Burgundies from the North costing 3, 4, 5x as much.

Marcel LaPierre's Morgon 2007 is one of my favorites...Arguably one of the finest red wines that can be drunk table side- and a legend within its own appellation. Under $25bt retail. Earth. Minerals. Reduced black cherry. Yet, fresh and with an acidity that penetrates fat like a knife through warm butter.

Embrace poverty. Slow down. For me, with such humble ingredients, my table is more rich than its ever been.

Cru Beaujolais producers to search out:

LaPierre
Desvignes
Jean Paul Brun
Trenel
Clos de Roilette
Tete
Christian Bernard
Chignard
Chauvet
Michaud
Descombes
Diochon
Guy Breton

If you don't feel like cooking- no worries. Get a fantastic, classic french styled baguette, some cornichons, some saussicon, some marinated olives, some comte cheese, some pate, a head of Boston lettuce. Make a vinaigrette from a shaken mixture of a dollop of dijon mustard, salt and pepper, 1 part red wine vinegar, 3 parts vegetable oil. Pour over lettuce head. Serve with other ingredients and a bottle of one of the above.

Finish bottle!

I'm Back!!!

You may have noticed a hiatus in the posts. My apologies.

A fantastic chicken curry and beer last night.

Will post more soon.

2003 Pontet-Canet

My sister-in-law brought home a bottle of Pontet-Canet 2003 yesterday. She asked if it was a good bottle. Yes, I responded. Pontet-Canet is a good producer. And that's what I thought. Classified growth Left Bank Bordeaux. Probably Michel Rollanded and over-made, I anticipated. Forgettable and over-priced, I assumed.

No.

There was a glass left, so I decided to have a glass with lunch as I'm working from home today. And what I found has re-opened my eyes to Classified Growth Bordeaux. Parker writes this is a definition of cassis. I completely disagree. Scorched earth and dark chocolate- yes. But more important, the wine delivers depth and power without a huge overly made alcoholic mouthfull. In short- it's balanced. There's structure here and even acidity which I can't believe for this vintage!?

Is it over priced? Yes. Even now, I'm seeing sticker prices at around $70bt. I think it drinks that and I think that's a fair price to pay for this quality. But, I would wait as ties they days demand patience. There are 2004s on the shelf, and the glorious 2005s (greatest ever vintage) are languishing.

So, be patient and when this wine dips below $40bt...buy it all.

The Lesson of Sous Vide

There's my boy doing his rendition of tuna, sous vide, complete with plastic orange letter "w" in the preparation.

I thought it was so cool that he started playing around with this thin slice of tuna and then he noticed that if he submerged it into hot water it changed color- it was cooking.

Sous vide is some what controversial, but any great chef I've talked to has said it's THE way to perfectly cook food. It concentrates better. It cooks perfectly uniformly. It allows for so much more control in the professional kitchen. Will it eventually make its way to the household kitchen? Well, it would guarantee that your chicken is properly cooked- your whole chicken.

But, I (and many of my chef friends as well) wonder if sous vide takes away some of the soul of cooking. It brings into play the 'perfection' question and whether being slightly imperfect is actually a better thing.

I guess it's summed up like this: is it better to be consistent or to have character?

Funny, that the business mind of me says consistency, but the humanity of me wants character- in food, wine, and at the table.

Malliouhana

One of THE super great, under the radar resort destinations based in Anguilla. I recommend it because I'm desperately feeling the need for a vacation, but with a baby girl coming this Fall...well, I'm not going anywhere. Probably the best high caliber food and wine destination I've been to in all of the Caribbean.


If you do ever make it here, make sure to have the lobster omelet with a bottle of Raveneau (multiple wines for amazingly only around $60+bt)!?

The Brilliance of Dried Oregano

I worked hard yesterday. Fully cleared out a third of my backyard. Laid seed and organic fertilizer. And where's the rain I was supposed to get? Ah well, the weather is funny. I was tired and I was very happy when after getting out of the shower my wife had takeout pizza ready to go for me.

As a traveling salesperson I eat a lot of pizza. In fact, I would go to say that the finest pizza connoisseurs in the world simply have to be traveling salespeople. It just makes sense. So, as a pizza connoisseur you become highly sensitive to the subtle taste of the sauce, the texture of the crust, the integration of the cheese, sauce, and crust. And salt- you can literally measure the salt of each component of the slice.

Last night's pizza? Pretty forgettable. But, as a sales person I also succumb to a lot of very forgettable pizza. My trick is to dress it up with dried oregano. It's amazing how a teaspoon of dried oregano can freshen up a pretty bad slice of pizza. Fresh oregano would have been even better. Ah, the incredibleness of fresh herbs.

I downed a couple glasses of white lambrusco. Dry. Very saline. Was excellent and pretty cool considering you never see this wine in the States. And all was right in the world...

Pain Grille

Go get a big 'ole hunk of Tuscan peasant bread. Slice into 1/2 inch slices. Open your outside grill and prep to high heat. Before putting each slice of bread down use a brush and lather thoroughly with olive oil- both sides!

Cook like you were cooking a piece of tuna fish. Watch for the lovely grill marks, and don't burn the sides too much. Immediatley after you pull the slices of bread from grill spirnkle with kosher salt and cracked pepper.

Serve along side salad and grilled meat.

Arguably one of the best accompaniments to any Summer dinner.

Shopping for Arabella

I'm very fortunate with my son, Charlie. Born in 2006. Think of all of the treasures that must be put away for him:

2006 Tuscany
2006 Burgundy
2006 Northern Rhones
2006 Barolo
actually pretty much 2006 anything Italian...

And now Arabella will come. Born in 2009. I still have to do my research but I'm hoping for a great Champagne year. And of course, as always, a great year in Burgundy...

Duryea's

It is arguably one of my top 5 restaurants on the planet. I've visited France extensively, Italy a couple of times, Ireland, Britain, the Virgin Islands, California a couple of times, Spain, and Japan...but this little seaside restaurant blows most of 'em out of the water.

It is an old (and still operational) lobster and seafood wholesaler- not a middle man mind you, but a direct from sea to market. The wholesale building actually sits on this North/Northwest facing bay and if you dine between 5pm and 7pm you catch a magnificent sunset right in the face. Plastic tables and chairs and a wood deck that is the beginnings of an old abandoned dock from the times when the boast would actually pull up to the wholesaler with their catch of the day (times have changed now and Duryea's has a number of vans to go purchase from the ships at their slips).

The menu is simple- clam chowder, steamed mussels with butter, salad, boiled lobster with baked potato and coleslaw, grilled fish with lemon. It sounds pretty boring written, but the freshness combined with the perfect setting for eating this seafood done in a no frills way makes these dishes to die for.

Duryea's is BYOB- and you know this speaks to me. Technically, you are not supposed to bring wine/beer as the SLA shut them down for not having some form of a BYOB permit(????) But, they turn a blind eye as you walk the 20 feet out to your car for some "adult apple juice" or "adult grape juice." In a fun way it makes you feel like you're 18 again.

And that's it. No waiters. Plastic forks/knives/paper napkins. Basically, it's all about the lobster, that setting, and a feeling that for an hour or so you're back deck overlooks this picturesque bay while you watch the sun drop in front of you while drinking adult apple juice.

Duryeas' is up off this semi-dirt road just North of Montauk town. I don't know the street name. It was discovered quite sometime ago so I assume google searches will be pretty fruitful. What hasn't been discovered is lunch at Duryea's which is still the deal of the century as far getting in and getting out quickly while eating fantastically. They take no reservations, so dinner can sometimes be a long wait if you hit them wrong.

Oh, prices...$34 I belive for the lobster and trimmings...$10 for some mussels to start with. Not super cheap...But, you factor in the beverage cost and it's a very good deal.

So, if in Montauk. Ask a local, "How do I get to Duryea's?" Get a chilled bottle of wine and an opener- they'll give you a cup. And make sure you're there to eat at 5pm for the sun.

If you want to truly understand Burgundy...

If you ever wanted to know what great Burgundy tastes like- listen to this in its entirety:

Neil Young Live at Massey Hall 1971

drink a bottle of something from Olivier Lamy or Fichet or Roulot if you do....

1985 Barca Velha

Monday night I was fortunate enough to taste these...

Breuer Berg Schlossberg 1994
Egon Muller Scharzhofberger Kabinett 2001
Coche Drury Bourgogne Rouge 1997
Barca Velha 1985
Azienda Agricola Sella Lessona 1979
Oddero Barolo 1967
Gouges Nuits St George Vaucrains 1er 1993
Chevillon Nuits St George Ronciers 1er 1999
Trimbach Cuvee Frederic Emile Vendages Terdives 1990

A simply breathtaking lineup that even now leaves me speechless just writing it. All were amazing. The Germans were beautiful- tight, still tons of acid and an excellent starter.

The Coche...who knew Coche blows it out of the water in reds as well? The second greatest Bourgogne Rouge I've ever tasted (the first was the 2001 Jayer-Gilles Haute Cote de Nuits).

The Lessona...we didn't even know what Lessona was? We just knew this old very important importer had brought it in (TresBon) and it was amazing. Very Ferrando Caremma-like.

We initially thought the Oddero was slightly over the hill, but it came back to life and showed excellent once it got its legs underneath it. Very floral for such an old wine.

Both the Gouges and the Chevillon were freakin off the radar. These are what Burgundy is all about. Power. Depth. Tannin. Nuits has no Grand Crus in it primarily because Gouges helped build the Grand Cru system back in the late '30s and convinced many of his fellow growers that the system was good for all by placing no vineyards with Grand Crus status in his home town of Nuits. But, if Nuits were to have Grand Crus these (Vaucrains and Ronciers) would be up for consideration. Amazing Grand Cru level quality.

And a beautiful finish with the Freddy Emile.Again, like the Germans, still racy and incredibly young. Petrol honey everywhere........

But, the wine of the night was the '85 Barca Velha. Arguably one of the greatest red wines I have ever tasted in my life. Think Hermitage, crossed with old Tondonia from Lopez, crossed with Conterno Barolo. To try and describe it in writing would be impossible. If you can get your hands on any older Barca Velha- do so! And what a great example to prove to us all that singular age worthy wines don't always have to come from the classical regions. As it was said at the table- this Barca is deserving of being on the same table as top older Petrus, Chave Hermitage, and/or Montfortino. Simply put: a profound wine experience.

no time?

I find myself with no time lately. I wake up and I'm cooking for family, cleaning, putting Little Man in clothes, fielding emails like Derek Jeter, corralling the pooch away from something she's not supposed to have her nose in, fixing, fixing, picking up, dealing, showering, shaving , and somewhere in there I find time to eat. Coffee is my personal fuel. I called my brother and remarked that a family man's finest personal time is the 5-10 minutes he spends on the John each morning- paper in hand.

And so, the other day I found myself with too much finely chopped chives. The butter was out. Hmm...Maybe an herb butter? Now, I'm not re-inventing the wheel here. Every chef on the planet uses herbed butters, but for me this was a new highlight. All of a sudden I now had instant 'good' sauce! Ta da! It was like the clouds parted and the sun shown down on my Mr Mom briliance. And so, I'm not here advocating a recipe or a pairing. I'm simply putting it forward...

If you are like me. If you have no time...Actually if you owe time...then make yourself some herbed butter. It takes half a second while you're making the normal meal...but it will make bland food taste so much better....

In Defense of Classicism

I met with a family member that had recently dined at one of the top classical French restaurants in NYC. As I've never been to this restaurant- and want to go- I will leave it nameless for now. He had the tasting menu paired with wine. The menu was super classically French. Very simple, but intensely pure flavors were his description. Spice, heat, and aromatics used but in the most delicate sense.

Now this family member knows wine and he was disappointed with the wine. Sparkling Torrontes? Off beat Californians? Like him, I don't get it. I...yes 'I'...think that there is a place for the unique and weird in the world of wine, but then there are places...dining experiences...that do demand structure- especially when one is paying so much, and especially when one is eating food which is so delicately made. There is a matter of taste to be considered.

As I stroll around Long Island, visit New York, and even flip through the various foodie magazines...I am piqued by the new flippancy of food and wine pairings. I am American and I do believe in 'no rules' wine pairings. But, I also believe in the foundations of pairing structure. Just like a chef, the basics have to be mastered and many times the old adage of 'there is a reason this goes with that' applies.

For example...for ME (and I'm stressing ME because I want to be clear that this is my sole opinion) classical Italian food can only be drunk with Italian wine- preferably of the traditional style. That food culture is completely unique to that peninsula and the wines and their style have been developed over hundreds of years to match exactly with that food. In France...and with that French restaurant...the classical dishes are the same. There's a reason the Sauce Bordelaise tastes magnificent with Bordeaux. There's a reason ham steaks with a tomato cream sauce taste fantastic with Chablis...and why roast lamb matches so well with Rhones...

The opposite might be asked about the rest of the wines of the world. Great, so what do we do with California? What about Oregon Pinot Noir? What about the New Zealand Riesling? When is it classically appropriate to drink those wines?

Well, again...for ME...when those wines are being paired I look for the foods that are classically eaten around them...Californian wines- Mexican and Central American cuisine and classical American dishes. Tacos. Chile. BBQ. Hamburgers.....New Zealand Wines- Pan Asian, specically Malayasian aor Thai styled foods. Thai green curried mussels....Oregon- Alaskan Salmon in all of it's glory.

There are no rules...but there are rules. I hope that when I dine at that great French restaurant in New York they re-discover their classiscm.

Marco Pierre White

I must admit that I have a bit of an obsession with people who are absolutists. You know, people who live life- who work at such intense extremes of quality- that it's everything or nothing.

In the food world, my obsession began the first time I read through Keller's French Laundry cookbook. To hear him discuss sourcing, discussing the intricate details of why even the most mundane and seemingly inconsequential tasks make the biggest difference, that level of artistry captured me.

And my latest obsession of foodie observation is the philosophy of Marco Pierre White. I was introduced to him through a client/chef whom I deeply respect: Douglas Gulijia of the Plaza Cafe in Southampton, NY. Doug showed me Marco's cookbook, if you could call it that. It's really more of a rock star's biography, really. So, I did some research. Who is this guy? What made him so controversial? Youngest guy ever to win 3 Michelin stars. Mentored Gordon Ramsey. Mario Battali worked under him. A legend in Britain. An absolute tirant in the kitchen. So, what was his story?...And I stumbled upon this Google Chef's interview.

47+ minutes long and I found myself respecting him even more. It's the absolute "Miyagi-ism" of the way he lives his life- left side or right side, in middle, squish just like grape. Like Bourdain he doesn't apologize for his bad habits or his darker side- it comes with the job. But like Keller he truly believes in food- in the reverence for it. And beneath the sex, drugs, and rock n' roll he promotes a heavy ethic of accountability. My financial obsession, Buffett, would like this guy.

It is an amazing interview...just to hear a great chef speak. I'll put eating at one of his restaurants on my bucket list...or even eating with him, which would be a double-bucket...maybe a starred bucket list item(?)...on the list. Doubt if it'll ever happen.

Regardless, the man is inspiring.

Shedding the skin

We are at that point where it's time to lose the grape.

I've been representing the wines from Mosel Wine Merchants for almost a year now and the more I taste through their portfolio the more I'm convinced that what their producers make and what the American public considers as Riesling are two different things. As I've often read regarding Burgundian winemakers- they will say, I don't make Pinot Noir or Chardonnay. I make Pommard of Chassagne, etc... I think the same applies for German wine.

Sure when you taste Riesling the grape has a natural inherent sweetness. It's pretty easy to pick out. But, I ask that you make the anaology of honey. Cheap, factory processed honey tastes, well, like honey. But, go down and see your local farmer making wild honey from clover. It's honey. But, it's not honey. And more importantly, his clover honey and the next farmer's clover honey...they taste nothing alike.

Same with Burgundy. They're all Chardonnay (white) or Pinot Noir (red). Yet, every town tastes different. Every vineyard tastes different. Every producer's take on these towns/vineyards tastes different.

I was reminded of this this past week. I had dinner with a client and grabbed a '96 Lingfelder (I forget town/vineyard), and then last night had an '05 Clemens Busch Pundericher Marienburg Spatlese Fahrlay. Both gold. Both smelled of honey and petrol. Minerals and delicious baked golden apple. I'm actually writing this and thinking that this could easily be the tasting note for an older Chassagne from Boillot. See what I mean? Yes, the Germans we're both sweet, but it was really a slight vapor at their age. They weren't defined by their sweetness anymore.

So in essence, I propose that you start not calling top German wines Riesling anymore as it's really not indicative of what they taste like. Call them by their town and vineyard. In Busch's case: Pundericher Marienberg. Maybe you might be thinking- what are some of the great vineyards in the Mosel? Erdener Treppchen, Erdener Pralat, Urziger Wurzgarten, Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Graacher Domprobst, Graacher Himmelreich, Bernkasteler Doctor, Brauneberger Juffer, Piesporter Goldtropfchen...

And Unlike Burgundy and France overall, where the food is so regional and down right fantastic, Germany has not exported much of it's culinary culture. Sure, we all know the cabbage and sausage route, but a little google-work and you immediately discover that Germany is second only to France in Michelin 3 star restaurants. And a little more work after that shows that there really isn't a whole lot of difference between the great culinary foundations of Alsace and Burgundy for the Mosel and the rest of German wine growing regions. There's a hearty reliance on root vegetables- leeks, potatoes, onions, carrots...foundations of stock and butter...and proteins of fresh water fish, chicken and beef. German chefs and food writers...it's time for an exploration and exportation of this 1,000 yr old, highly developed food culture!

And then I think it's time to speak about the elepant in the room. Why not? I was selling the Mosel Wine Merchants portfolio with Dan Melia (MWM's export director) one day when a client brought up World War II and the stigma attached to all things German. I can relate a bit. I lost my grandfather in France- post D Day. But, I'm also 1/3 German by ancestry. More importantly...most importantly...is the concept of the farmer. The producers who are making these wines are very small farmers. Same as in the Loire, Burgundy growers, the Rhone, Barolo, Spain, Portugal, etc...They are attached and identify passionately with one thing: their land and the produce they farm. I have met with all of the MWM producers and they are as genuine, as humorous, as good natured as any of the French paysan vigneron. In many cases they are much more humble than many small production winemakers from other parts of the world. So, I ask you kindly to enter their wine and food with an open mind. After all, let me share a story...

In the late Spring of 2003 I went over to do a stage in Bordeaux. I was very excited. And I am who I am: a small town guy from Connecticut, who at that time was living in Hoboken NJ with his new wife selling wine to restaurants in New York City. Our country had just invaded Iraq. But, that had nothing to do with me. President Bush had nothing to do with me. The military had nothing to do with me. And American foreign policy had nothing to do with me. Even now, as I'm very happy to have voted for Obama...his work and the changes coming from his staff, they all have nothing to do with me. I'm affected by them- like the rest of the world- but I might as well be a small ant as far as my ability and want to be involved in implementing them. Yet, in going over to France in the Summer of 2003 I was socially held accountable in many social circles for the actions of Bush and my country's leadership. Little old me! I was just there to make wine and eat food? And I'd like to say that by the end of my trip I DID personally change a lot of country Frenchman's minds about who an American was and what an American thought.

So, you see my story and it's relation to the German paysan-vigneron. All they've ever had were their vineyards and their wine. All they've ever cared about were their vineyards and their wine. Toss out the elephant. Focus on the plate and glass.

Cobb

Spring is here. Thank God!

This past Winter has been one of the most extraordinary I have ever seen. My wife and I recently remarked that we are living amongst legendary history in our country, and in the world as well. Fear has been dominate in our society. And the cold of Winter has emotionally fueled that fear on a day to day basis. But, with the thawing of Spring everything changes...

In with that in mind I think this Spring will be one of the most poignant in quite sometime. Already, I feel the temperature increasing. I'm aware of the sunlight at 7pm. I found huge excitement in using the outdoor grill for the first time the other night. And I find myself very excited for "Spring"dishes.

Oddly maybe, I found myself jonesing for a really well-made Cobb Salad and a fantastic glass of California Chardonnay.

Those that know me well are probably thinking that I might be on drugs or something, but no, I'm actually genuinely excited for this pairing. White Burgundy? Nope, that won't do- not powerful enough. And so , I've done a little homework on the perfect Cobb Salad and here it is below...My perfect pairing? No brainer...Varner Chardonnay Amphitheater Block 2004 if it can be found....aka- New World Chassagne Boudriotte. If not, I'll take a glass of Walter Hansel Chardonnay North Slope 2006.

Cobb Salad (based on the original recipe from the LA restaurant Brown Derby, created in 1937):

Ingredients:

Boston Lettuce
Chicory
Romaine
Watercress
sliced tomatoes
Homemade bacon bits
sliced sauteed chicken breast
sliced hard boiled eggs
sliced avocado
crumbled maytag blue cheese
finely chopped chives
dressing

Dressing:

In bowl add, small dollop of Dijon mustard, small amount of finely chopped garlic, shot of Worcestershire, sea salt, freshly ground pepper, little bit of freshly squeezed lemon juice, solid amount of red wine vinegar, and maybe a teaspoon of sugar. Whisk until blended. Let stand for a couple of minutes. Then slowly add in a little bit of vegtable oil (1/2 cup) while heavilt whisking. Add in a little bit of olive oil while heavily whicking. Whick in water if need for consistency.

Compose salad on plate. Top with dressing. And serve.

Winter can be white...

I would love to ask...why does Alsace not get any love?

You know Alsace- that little strip of land between France and Germany that's been the starting point for countless wars between those two countries over the course of history. And by the way, they also make drop dead wines. Certainly Zind-Humbrecht's stuff is mind blowing, but what about Keuntz-Bas, Dirler, Boxler, and even the large house, Trimbach. And Deiss..how could I forget Deiss. There are so many great artists up there and so many I am simply forgetting to mention.

Alsace is on my mind because I came home last night and had a glass of Grenache with pizza. It was a long day- a salesman's sort of day (250+ miles on the car), and well, I found that I really wasn't satisfied. My mind/soul was searching for something Wintery...but something different than the usual blow down your door red wine.

I wanted aromatics. I wanted acid. I actually didn't want tannins and red wine, but not Burgundy, not chenin. Alsace man.

Think about it. Their cusine is wrapped around bacon, vinegar, root vegetables, and pork. And how many great chefs have come from Alsace- let's start with my man Jean-Georges for starters...

Anyway, show Alsace some love next time you're in a shop or at a restaurant. If you're on a budget, then you will very pleasantly surprised...Excellent Alsace Pinot Blanc / Pinot Gris can be had for $15bt in a shop and/or $35-$40bt on a wine list. And if you plop down another $5 (basically pass on your daily Starbucks concoction) then you can pony up for Zind Humbrecht Rielsing or Pinot Gris for $21-$23bt ($55bt there-on-abouts on a list).

Open your minds friends. Winter can be white...and taste better, cheaper.

The Onion Correction...?

Times are tough and it brings you home.

I had the most wonderfull conversation with a seasoned chef in January. We talked about the difficulties of the restaurant business- the lack of customers, even regulars being irregular. And I remarked to him that in these times the true chefs come through. It hasn't about how well one can work with fois gras and truffles, it's about what can you do with an onion, with eggs, with root vegetables.

As the winter descends upon me and things become grim I find myself wondering two things:

1. When is what I know as normalcy going to return?

2. Is this really an opportunity?

Is it? Is this the period in my generation where life will make us re-learn how to live around the table. Where maybe this Summer gardening might be a little more important than just a fun hobbie...Where maybe it might be a good idea to start visiting the local farmer to take him up on those placard signs reading, "Farm Fresh Eggs"?

I think it is. Tonight is Thursday, the 5th. Saturday the 7th is my birthday. And I'm going to be cooking for my wife and son on my birthday because that's what I like to do. I found myself looking at two cookbooks for inspiration tonight. The French Laundry Cookbook, and an old book from my wife's grandfather, Pierre Franey. I respect everything that is the Laundry. The pursuit of perfection...how can you not? It is art, really, at that level. And in good times I'd probably try my hand at a couple recipes...maybe pop some high end Burgundy.

But I'm back to my old friend. Eggs. Onions. Root vegetables. Slow cooking. Reductions...Simple cooking...Good thing I know is that even the great restaurants, the haute cusine...it all started with these ingredients as well!

Maybe in the end this recession is more than a financial correction. A cultural correction? A return to a simpler and better time?

The real deal on the whole 2007 So. CDR thing

OK, so I've now tasted half a dozen super star 2007 Cotes du Rhones. 2007 has been widely reported as one of the greatest vintages for that region in quite sometime. Parker, a Southern Rhone fanatic decreed it the best vintage he had tasted in that region in his 30 years- no slouch comment considering he spends a lot of time and effort there.

For me, I went in thinking, "well..the guy does worhsip Chateauneuf du Pape, so he respects the region, the terroir, and its producers...It probably is that good.."

It is that good.

But, some understanding is needed. The best wines are yet to come (they're all still in barrel or tank and should come this Summer). The second best wines- the top Cotes du Rhone Villages (Cairannes, Rasteaus, super second wines from the best Chateauneuf producers) have come. They are dense, compacted and complex. In short, I think most people (myself included) dived into these wines expecting to blown away by a voluptuous and over-the-topness of fruit. Sorry, that's not the deal here. These wines are so complex and dense that they're not ready. They almost drink black. They are early March buds folks.

It reminds of a producer I represent named Monetpeloso. When the 2006 Montepelosos came in this past Fall (2006 coastal Tuscany- another legendary vintage/region) I pulled a bottle of their Eneo...the entry level Super Tuscan. I remember it being absolutely black- like dark, dense, hard, angular, etc...It opened a little on Day 3!!!!!!! But, that Eneo has started to flower now and the wine is showing it's pedigree.

So, back to the 2007 Southern Rhone. These wines are that good, but they are masterfull flowers that are still in very tight buds. By the way, if just the good Cotes du Rhones are in this state, then expect the Chateaneufs and such to be wrapped liked mummies this Summer. What is drinking wonderfully right now are the entry level house Cotes du Rhones, and economically these wines couldn't come at a better time. I'm talking basic $10-$15 Cotes du Rhones. Buy at will..cause you'll be getting twice your money's worth.

As far as the rest...well, it's great to see a region of producers that's still building wines directly from the vineyard for the cellar- the way great wines ought to be built. So, when they come...and even those $25 Cotes du Rhones Villages that are here now...pick up some bottles and forget about them for a year plus...You will be handsomely rewarded.

Are they graduating?

What an interesting comment I heard from one of my top clients last week...

We started talking about the wine regions most of his clientele were drinking. A couple of years ago I remember him having a huge Marquis Philips, big spoofulated, Shiraz crowd. "What happened to that business?", I asked.

"They've moved to Southern France. The Languedoc. They want village wines from there."

Yes, if 2008 couldn't get more bizarre. But, now that I'm thinking about it this was actually my own path. The first great great wine I ever remember tasting was the 1998 Dead Arm Shiraz by D'Arenberg. Freaking huge ass wine. Walloped me over the forehead and I loved it for that. I remember staying in Australia for quite some time continuing to love the fruit bombs and the 'smoothness' of the wines.

Then I remember tasting a Faugeres. Then a Fitou. A Corbieres. There was a similar darkness in the wines. A raisination. Prunes. They had all of that over the top fruit, but it just wasn't fake. It was natural...like a child discovering that candy is too much, but dried fruit can deliver a similar sweetness, but without the nasty back-of-your-mouth sugar thing.

Where did I go from the Languedoc (which I still love)? Well...New World Spain. Than Southern Italy. Than Central Italy. Than Bordeaux. Than Burgundy. Once you're in Burgundy, it's over.

However, you can never truly get to Burgundy directly- you can never really appreciate it by starting there...You have to go all the way through the rest of those... So, maybe there's hope for the masses yet!