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Saturday, November 7, 2009

Embrace poverty!


Maybe it's Winter, but I find myself moving more and more into my Lyonnais hole. As all know, Lyon is the Gastronomic center of France- many regard it as the food capital of the Western world. It's famous for its famous chefs- Paul Bocuse, Jacques Pepin, and Daniel Boulod amongst countless others. But, it's not the haute cuisine that inspires me. It's the brasseries, the bistros, and cafes. Dishes involving pork, braised "off" cuts of meat, and the baguette as the spoon of choice. Mustard is more important than salt and pepper- table side.

The recession is over I guess, but times are still tough. Me? I'm celebrating the times. I'm re-discovering pork. I made my first mornay sauce last week and yes, I need some work, but I found it amazing that a little flour, butter, cream, eggs, and cheese could elevate broccoli in such a way.

Lentils have become fashionable in my household.

And in wine, I find myself enamored with the Grand Crus of Lyon- Les Crus de Beaujolais. These are the best of the best, finest wines produced by artisanal growers working traditionally. And many blow the pants off of Burgundies from the North costing 3, 4, 5x as much.

Marcel LaPierre's Morgon 2007 is one of my favorites...Arguably one of the finest red wines that can be drunk table side- and a legend within its own appellation. Under $25bt retail. Earth. Minerals. Reduced black cherry. Yet, fresh and with an acidity that penetrates fat like a knife through warm butter.

Embrace poverty. Slow down. For me, with such humble ingredients, my table is more rich than its ever been.

Cru Beaujolais producers to search out:

LaPierre
Desvignes
Jean Paul Brun
Trenel
Clos de Roilette
Tete
Christian Bernard
Chignard
Chauvet
Michaud
Descombes
Diochon
Guy Breton

If you don't feel like cooking- no worries. Get a fantastic, classic french styled baguette, some cornichons, some saussicon, some marinated olives, some comte cheese, some pate, a head of Boston lettuce. Make a vinaigrette from a shaken mixture of a dollop of dijon mustard, salt and pepper, 1 part red wine vinegar, 3 parts vegetable oil. Pour over lettuce head. Serve with other ingredients and a bottle of one of the above.

Finish bottle!


2 comments:

Weineau said...

But broccoli is so good on its own mon ami. Now if you had offered asparagus topped with hollandaise (made from MY hens' eggs) you'd really have something.

How are you holding up? we should talk . . .
917 696-8082
Cliff

Christian Troy said...

I here that man.

It's been 6 years and I'm still jonesing for some of those farm fresh eggs your hens make each week.

Doing well...Yeah, just had a baby girl- Arabella- last Friday, so am on paternity. Will give you a shout next week to stay hello.

C