no time?

I find myself with no time lately. I wake up and I'm cooking for family, cleaning, putting Little Man in clothes, fielding emails like Derek Jeter, corralling the pooch away from something she's not supposed to have her nose in, fixing, fixing, picking up, dealing, showering, shaving , and somewhere in there I find time to eat. Coffee is my personal fuel. I called my brother and remarked that a family man's finest personal time is the 5-10 minutes he spends on the John each morning- paper in hand.

And so, the other day I found myself with too much finely chopped chives. The butter was out. Hmm...Maybe an herb butter? Now, I'm not re-inventing the wheel here. Every chef on the planet uses herbed butters, but for me this was a new highlight. All of a sudden I now had instant 'good' sauce! Ta da! It was like the clouds parted and the sun shown down on my Mr Mom briliance. And so, I'm not here advocating a recipe or a pairing. I'm simply putting it forward...

If you are like me. If you have no time...Actually if you owe time...then make yourself some herbed butter. It takes half a second while you're making the normal meal...but it will make bland food taste so much better....

In Defense of Classicism

I met with a family member that had recently dined at one of the top classical French restaurants in NYC. As I've never been to this restaurant- and want to go- I will leave it nameless for now. He had the tasting menu paired with wine. The menu was super classically French. Very simple, but intensely pure flavors were his description. Spice, heat, and aromatics used but in the most delicate sense.

Now this family member knows wine and he was disappointed with the wine. Sparkling Torrontes? Off beat Californians? Like him, I don't get it. I...yes 'I'...think that there is a place for the unique and weird in the world of wine, but then there are places...dining experiences...that do demand structure- especially when one is paying so much, and especially when one is eating food which is so delicately made. There is a matter of taste to be considered.

As I stroll around Long Island, visit New York, and even flip through the various foodie magazines...I am piqued by the new flippancy of food and wine pairings. I am American and I do believe in 'no rules' wine pairings. But, I also believe in the foundations of pairing structure. Just like a chef, the basics have to be mastered and many times the old adage of 'there is a reason this goes with that' applies.

For example...for ME (and I'm stressing ME because I want to be clear that this is my sole opinion) classical Italian food can only be drunk with Italian wine- preferably of the traditional style. That food culture is completely unique to that peninsula and the wines and their style have been developed over hundreds of years to match exactly with that food. In France...and with that French restaurant...the classical dishes are the same. There's a reason the Sauce Bordelaise tastes magnificent with Bordeaux. There's a reason ham steaks with a tomato cream sauce taste fantastic with Chablis...and why roast lamb matches so well with Rhones...

The opposite might be asked about the rest of the wines of the world. Great, so what do we do with California? What about Oregon Pinot Noir? What about the New Zealand Riesling? When is it classically appropriate to drink those wines?

Well, again...for ME...when those wines are being paired I look for the foods that are classically eaten around them...Californian wines- Mexican and Central American cuisine and classical American dishes. Tacos. Chile. BBQ. Hamburgers.....New Zealand Wines- Pan Asian, specically Malayasian aor Thai styled foods. Thai green curried mussels....Oregon- Alaskan Salmon in all of it's glory.

There are no rules...but there are rules. I hope that when I dine at that great French restaurant in New York they re-discover their classiscm.

Marco Pierre White

I must admit that I have a bit of an obsession with people who are absolutists. You know, people who live life- who work at such intense extremes of quality- that it's everything or nothing.

In the food world, my obsession began the first time I read through Keller's French Laundry cookbook. To hear him discuss sourcing, discussing the intricate details of why even the most mundane and seemingly inconsequential tasks make the biggest difference, that level of artistry captured me.

And my latest obsession of foodie observation is the philosophy of Marco Pierre White. I was introduced to him through a client/chef whom I deeply respect: Douglas Gulijia of the Plaza Cafe in Southampton, NY. Doug showed me Marco's cookbook, if you could call it that. It's really more of a rock star's biography, really. So, I did some research. Who is this guy? What made him so controversial? Youngest guy ever to win 3 Michelin stars. Mentored Gordon Ramsey. Mario Battali worked under him. A legend in Britain. An absolute tirant in the kitchen. So, what was his story?...And I stumbled upon this Google Chef's interview.

47+ minutes long and I found myself respecting him even more. It's the absolute "Miyagi-ism" of the way he lives his life- left side or right side, in middle, squish just like grape. Like Bourdain he doesn't apologize for his bad habits or his darker side- it comes with the job. But like Keller he truly believes in food- in the reverence for it. And beneath the sex, drugs, and rock n' roll he promotes a heavy ethic of accountability. My financial obsession, Buffett, would like this guy.

It is an amazing interview...just to hear a great chef speak. I'll put eating at one of his restaurants on my bucket list...or even eating with him, which would be a double-bucket...maybe a starred bucket list item(?)...on the list. Doubt if it'll ever happen.

Regardless, the man is inspiring.

Shedding the skin

We are at that point where it's time to lose the grape.

I've been representing the wines from Mosel Wine Merchants for almost a year now and the more I taste through their portfolio the more I'm convinced that what their producers make and what the American public considers as Riesling are two different things. As I've often read regarding Burgundian winemakers- they will say, I don't make Pinot Noir or Chardonnay. I make Pommard of Chassagne, etc... I think the same applies for German wine.

Sure when you taste Riesling the grape has a natural inherent sweetness. It's pretty easy to pick out. But, I ask that you make the anaology of honey. Cheap, factory processed honey tastes, well, like honey. But, go down and see your local farmer making wild honey from clover. It's honey. But, it's not honey. And more importantly, his clover honey and the next farmer's clover honey...they taste nothing alike.

Same with Burgundy. They're all Chardonnay (white) or Pinot Noir (red). Yet, every town tastes different. Every vineyard tastes different. Every producer's take on these towns/vineyards tastes different.

I was reminded of this this past week. I had dinner with a client and grabbed a '96 Lingfelder (I forget town/vineyard), and then last night had an '05 Clemens Busch Pundericher Marienburg Spatlese Fahrlay. Both gold. Both smelled of honey and petrol. Minerals and delicious baked golden apple. I'm actually writing this and thinking that this could easily be the tasting note for an older Chassagne from Boillot. See what I mean? Yes, the Germans we're both sweet, but it was really a slight vapor at their age. They weren't defined by their sweetness anymore.

So in essence, I propose that you start not calling top German wines Riesling anymore as it's really not indicative of what they taste like. Call them by their town and vineyard. In Busch's case: Pundericher Marienberg. Maybe you might be thinking- what are some of the great vineyards in the Mosel? Erdener Treppchen, Erdener Pralat, Urziger Wurzgarten, Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Graacher Domprobst, Graacher Himmelreich, Bernkasteler Doctor, Brauneberger Juffer, Piesporter Goldtropfchen...

And Unlike Burgundy and France overall, where the food is so regional and down right fantastic, Germany has not exported much of it's culinary culture. Sure, we all know the cabbage and sausage route, but a little google-work and you immediately discover that Germany is second only to France in Michelin 3 star restaurants. And a little more work after that shows that there really isn't a whole lot of difference between the great culinary foundations of Alsace and Burgundy for the Mosel and the rest of German wine growing regions. There's a hearty reliance on root vegetables- leeks, potatoes, onions, carrots...foundations of stock and butter...and proteins of fresh water fish, chicken and beef. German chefs and food writers...it's time for an exploration and exportation of this 1,000 yr old, highly developed food culture!

And then I think it's time to speak about the elepant in the room. Why not? I was selling the Mosel Wine Merchants portfolio with Dan Melia (MWM's export director) one day when a client brought up World War II and the stigma attached to all things German. I can relate a bit. I lost my grandfather in France- post D Day. But, I'm also 1/3 German by ancestry. More importantly...most importantly...is the concept of the farmer. The producers who are making these wines are very small farmers. Same as in the Loire, Burgundy growers, the Rhone, Barolo, Spain, Portugal, etc...They are attached and identify passionately with one thing: their land and the produce they farm. I have met with all of the MWM producers and they are as genuine, as humorous, as good natured as any of the French paysan vigneron. In many cases they are much more humble than many small production winemakers from other parts of the world. So, I ask you kindly to enter their wine and food with an open mind. After all, let me share a story...

In the late Spring of 2003 I went over to do a stage in Bordeaux. I was very excited. And I am who I am: a small town guy from Connecticut, who at that time was living in Hoboken NJ with his new wife selling wine to restaurants in New York City. Our country had just invaded Iraq. But, that had nothing to do with me. President Bush had nothing to do with me. The military had nothing to do with me. And American foreign policy had nothing to do with me. Even now, as I'm very happy to have voted for Obama...his work and the changes coming from his staff, they all have nothing to do with me. I'm affected by them- like the rest of the world- but I might as well be a small ant as far as my ability and want to be involved in implementing them. Yet, in going over to France in the Summer of 2003 I was socially held accountable in many social circles for the actions of Bush and my country's leadership. Little old me! I was just there to make wine and eat food? And I'd like to say that by the end of my trip I DID personally change a lot of country Frenchman's minds about who an American was and what an American thought.

So, you see my story and it's relation to the German paysan-vigneron. All they've ever had were their vineyards and their wine. All they've ever cared about were their vineyards and their wine. Toss out the elephant. Focus on the plate and glass.

Cobb

Spring is here. Thank God!

This past Winter has been one of the most extraordinary I have ever seen. My wife and I recently remarked that we are living amongst legendary history in our country, and in the world as well. Fear has been dominate in our society. And the cold of Winter has emotionally fueled that fear on a day to day basis. But, with the thawing of Spring everything changes...

In with that in mind I think this Spring will be one of the most poignant in quite sometime. Already, I feel the temperature increasing. I'm aware of the sunlight at 7pm. I found huge excitement in using the outdoor grill for the first time the other night. And I find myself very excited for "Spring"dishes.

Oddly maybe, I found myself jonesing for a really well-made Cobb Salad and a fantastic glass of California Chardonnay.

Those that know me well are probably thinking that I might be on drugs or something, but no, I'm actually genuinely excited for this pairing. White Burgundy? Nope, that won't do- not powerful enough. And so , I've done a little homework on the perfect Cobb Salad and here it is below...My perfect pairing? No brainer...Varner Chardonnay Amphitheater Block 2004 if it can be found....aka- New World Chassagne Boudriotte. If not, I'll take a glass of Walter Hansel Chardonnay North Slope 2006.

Cobb Salad (based on the original recipe from the LA restaurant Brown Derby, created in 1937):

Ingredients:

Boston Lettuce
Chicory
Romaine
Watercress
sliced tomatoes
Homemade bacon bits
sliced sauteed chicken breast
sliced hard boiled eggs
sliced avocado
crumbled maytag blue cheese
finely chopped chives
dressing

Dressing:

In bowl add, small dollop of Dijon mustard, small amount of finely chopped garlic, shot of Worcestershire, sea salt, freshly ground pepper, little bit of freshly squeezed lemon juice, solid amount of red wine vinegar, and maybe a teaspoon of sugar. Whisk until blended. Let stand for a couple of minutes. Then slowly add in a little bit of vegtable oil (1/2 cup) while heavilt whisking. Add in a little bit of olive oil while heavily whicking. Whick in water if need for consistency.

Compose salad on plate. Top with dressing. And serve.

Winter can be white...

I would love to ask...why does Alsace not get any love?

You know Alsace- that little strip of land between France and Germany that's been the starting point for countless wars between those two countries over the course of history. And by the way, they also make drop dead wines. Certainly Zind-Humbrecht's stuff is mind blowing, but what about Keuntz-Bas, Dirler, Boxler, and even the large house, Trimbach. And Deiss..how could I forget Deiss. There are so many great artists up there and so many I am simply forgetting to mention.

Alsace is on my mind because I came home last night and had a glass of Grenache with pizza. It was a long day- a salesman's sort of day (250+ miles on the car), and well, I found that I really wasn't satisfied. My mind/soul was searching for something Wintery...but something different than the usual blow down your door red wine.

I wanted aromatics. I wanted acid. I actually didn't want tannins and red wine, but not Burgundy, not chenin. Alsace man.

Think about it. Their cusine is wrapped around bacon, vinegar, root vegetables, and pork. And how many great chefs have come from Alsace- let's start with my man Jean-Georges for starters...

Anyway, show Alsace some love next time you're in a shop or at a restaurant. If you're on a budget, then you will very pleasantly surprised...Excellent Alsace Pinot Blanc / Pinot Gris can be had for $15bt in a shop and/or $35-$40bt on a wine list. And if you plop down another $5 (basically pass on your daily Starbucks concoction) then you can pony up for Zind Humbrecht Rielsing or Pinot Gris for $21-$23bt ($55bt there-on-abouts on a list).

Open your minds friends. Winter can be white...and taste better, cheaper.

The Onion Correction...?

Times are tough and it brings you home.

I had the most wonderfull conversation with a seasoned chef in January. We talked about the difficulties of the restaurant business- the lack of customers, even regulars being irregular. And I remarked to him that in these times the true chefs come through. It hasn't about how well one can work with fois gras and truffles, it's about what can you do with an onion, with eggs, with root vegetables.

As the winter descends upon me and things become grim I find myself wondering two things:

1. When is what I know as normalcy going to return?

2. Is this really an opportunity?

Is it? Is this the period in my generation where life will make us re-learn how to live around the table. Where maybe this Summer gardening might be a little more important than just a fun hobbie...Where maybe it might be a good idea to start visiting the local farmer to take him up on those placard signs reading, "Farm Fresh Eggs"?

I think it is. Tonight is Thursday, the 5th. Saturday the 7th is my birthday. And I'm going to be cooking for my wife and son on my birthday because that's what I like to do. I found myself looking at two cookbooks for inspiration tonight. The French Laundry Cookbook, and an old book from my wife's grandfather, Pierre Franey. I respect everything that is the Laundry. The pursuit of perfection...how can you not? It is art, really, at that level. And in good times I'd probably try my hand at a couple recipes...maybe pop some high end Burgundy.

But I'm back to my old friend. Eggs. Onions. Root vegetables. Slow cooking. Reductions...Simple cooking...Good thing I know is that even the great restaurants, the haute cusine...it all started with these ingredients as well!

Maybe in the end this recession is more than a financial correction. A cultural correction? A return to a simpler and better time?