The real deal on the whole 2007 So. CDR thing

OK, so I've now tasted half a dozen super star 2007 Cotes du Rhones. 2007 has been widely reported as one of the greatest vintages for that region in quite sometime. Parker, a Southern Rhone fanatic decreed it the best vintage he had tasted in that region in his 30 years- no slouch comment considering he spends a lot of time and effort there.

For me, I went in thinking, "well..the guy does worhsip Chateauneuf du Pape, so he respects the region, the terroir, and its producers...It probably is that good.."

It is that good.

But, some understanding is needed. The best wines are yet to come (they're all still in barrel or tank and should come this Summer). The second best wines- the top Cotes du Rhone Villages (Cairannes, Rasteaus, super second wines from the best Chateauneuf producers) have come. They are dense, compacted and complex. In short, I think most people (myself included) dived into these wines expecting to blown away by a voluptuous and over-the-topness of fruit. Sorry, that's not the deal here. These wines are so complex and dense that they're not ready. They almost drink black. They are early March buds folks.

It reminds of a producer I represent named Monetpeloso. When the 2006 Montepelosos came in this past Fall (2006 coastal Tuscany- another legendary vintage/region) I pulled a bottle of their Eneo...the entry level Super Tuscan. I remember it being absolutely black- like dark, dense, hard, angular, etc...It opened a little on Day 3!!!!!!! But, that Eneo has started to flower now and the wine is showing it's pedigree.

So, back to the 2007 Southern Rhone. These wines are that good, but they are masterfull flowers that are still in very tight buds. By the way, if just the good Cotes du Rhones are in this state, then expect the Chateaneufs and such to be wrapped liked mummies this Summer. What is drinking wonderfully right now are the entry level house Cotes du Rhones, and economically these wines couldn't come at a better time. I'm talking basic $10-$15 Cotes du Rhones. Buy at will..cause you'll be getting twice your money's worth.

As far as the rest...well, it's great to see a region of producers that's still building wines directly from the vineyard for the cellar- the way great wines ought to be built. So, when they come...and even those $25 Cotes du Rhones Villages that are here now...pick up some bottles and forget about them for a year plus...You will be handsomely rewarded.

Are they graduating?

What an interesting comment I heard from one of my top clients last week...

We started talking about the wine regions most of his clientele were drinking. A couple of years ago I remember him having a huge Marquis Philips, big spoofulated, Shiraz crowd. "What happened to that business?", I asked.

"They've moved to Southern France. The Languedoc. They want village wines from there."

Yes, if 2008 couldn't get more bizarre. But, now that I'm thinking about it this was actually my own path. The first great great wine I ever remember tasting was the 1998 Dead Arm Shiraz by D'Arenberg. Freaking huge ass wine. Walloped me over the forehead and I loved it for that. I remember staying in Australia for quite some time continuing to love the fruit bombs and the 'smoothness' of the wines.

Then I remember tasting a Faugeres. Then a Fitou. A Corbieres. There was a similar darkness in the wines. A raisination. Prunes. They had all of that over the top fruit, but it just wasn't fake. It was natural...like a child discovering that candy is too much, but dried fruit can deliver a similar sweetness, but without the nasty back-of-your-mouth sugar thing.

Where did I go from the Languedoc (which I still love)? Well...New World Spain. Than Southern Italy. Than Central Italy. Than Bordeaux. Than Burgundy. Once you're in Burgundy, it's over.

However, you can never truly get to Burgundy directly- you can never really appreciate it by starting there...You have to go all the way through the rest of those... So, maybe there's hope for the masses yet!