The Importance of Thevenet

Thevenet is important.

If you love French wine than you should know about Thevenet, just as you know about Lu-Lu Bize-Leroy, or Raveneau, or Dagueneau. The Thevenet family is known as the old school benchmark winemakers for over-the-top, Grand Cru-esque styled Maconnais wines. They harvest a little later than normal, but do so with laughable low yields. Then their elevage is incredibly long, and you usually aren't supposed to even think about drinking the wines unless they have a couple years on them.

I couldn't resist myself. Last week I saw a bottle of Thevenet St Veran Clos de L'Ermitage Cuvee Vieilles Vignes 2006. I grabbed it. There came a point on Saturday when my wife and I wanted some white. It was in the fridge- my mistake to begin with (this should have been down in the cellar). And when I blew the hatch and tasted it I knew I had screwed up. The wine was wound wound wound. Like super G tight.

It opened over the weekend and was enjoyable. I don't want to say that I didn't enjoy drinking this wine. It's just that I've had older Thevenet wines, so I know what this artist intends for proper consumption- and it ain't fresh release wines to be opened right away.

But anyway, point is for $25 this is drinking better than most 1er Cru Chablis, better than most AOC Chassagnes and Pulignys. It is incredibly interesting and unique. I'm not going to do the fruit profile thing cause that would cheese it up a lot; and the wine's better than that. Let's just leave it at this- it's a very very serious wine.

Lamb/Rhone...not perfected

As a Long Islander, I'm longing for the heat at this point. It's freezing- very cold for the time of year, and my person wants to be outside. East outside. Drink cold wines. Roses. And leave the Winter until again.

Rhone. That's where my mind's at these days. Chateauneuf is you can find good affordable CDP. (Domaine St benoit CDP Rge Grande Garde 2005- drinking very well right now). But, I grew up drinking Liracs, Rasteaus, Cairannes, etc...The other great villages. And of course lamb along with these wines. (I'm determined to eat and drink my Spring some how.)

Did lamb sauteed on the stove tonight. Finished with a little puree of garlic and olives and olive oil. It was OK. It needed the grill, but it was raining. I lament.

'Tis the weekend and the garden needs my help. Fresh herbs. Young vegetables, and a bottle of Thevenet St Veran.

A dieu...

Insalata Amalfitana

Absolutely amazing amazing salad.

Went to go see a client today and found myself early by about 2 hours. Cool. Bring on the return of a fine business lunch. Why not? Maybe a return to the days of the two martini lunch. Can you imagine that? Like mid-1980s, and you go out to lunch- with clients (!)- and bang out 2 martinis. I'd lose so much business...or maybe I'd make so much more business...than I'd know what to do with. Times are different. My dad did the 2 martini lunches back in the day. But then again, faxes were highly complex and revolutionary. Dad's passed, but the thought of him under the laser pressure of blackberry business speed doesn't match.

Anyway, back to return to the 80s business lunch today- a true thing I wish we would do. (Where are the expense accounts anymore.). Great little restaurant in Huntington, NY (Long Island): Jonathan's. Proprietor's name is Roberto. He's out of Rome, and came over to work at Le Cirque..eventually he made his way out East. But, the key is the dude knows Italian freshness.

It's such a simple salad...paper thin slices of red onion, raw fennel, some baby arugala, and small peeled tangerine slices. The key is a perfect dressing of salt and white pepper, and fantastic olive oil and lemon juice. The salad is incomparable.

I returned to the 80s and di the business lunch, sans wine or martini. Sorry, actually did have to be "business-like" by early afternoon. But, I would have loved a half bottle of Russiz Superiore Sauvignon with this. Russiz is one of absolute favorites in Friuli...the delineation of acid and minerals that you find in Alto Adigean whites with the power of Jermann, the most famous producer in Friuli.

Ah well....next time.

2004 Terres Dorees Beaujolais Vieilles Vignes

Things are getting a little more difficult to continue to perform a COTT moment each night as Little Man maintenance is definitely getting the way of prep, plating, and eating. It's all good though. He's Little Man and I love him more than myself. There will plenty of other nights where I'll get to cook a great meal, enjoy a well laid out table, and feast with great wine.

But, did manage to pull of some simple flounder. People poo-poo the flounder; that's a mistake. Flounder is one of the world's great cheap meats. (I know. I know. Buy skate- it's classic!) And flounder with a simple breaded crust with a pat of butter, some parseley, and lemon is just ridiculously simple to make. The key I've learned is a hot hot pan, with the fat being a mix of butter and olive oil. Seems to work the best through the heat.

Anyway, made a simple salad, and knocked down a glass of the above wine- and it was on day 3 mind you. Just shows the great complexity of grower Bojo. Gamay that actually tastes like it's place. There are earth, leather, and herbal notes that you would associate with the Rhone. And then a dark, almost Gevery quality. All in all, you would never guess Gamay. Damn, this shit is earthy and funky (but like P-Funk funky, good funky).

Go buy a bottle. I found mine for $15. In my mind it's drinking $23.