The Culture of the Table

On good glassware...

2010-11-23T09:41:00.000-08:00

Glassware matters.

Like, a lot.

This is not to say that every time I sit down at a table I'm expecting the finest Riedel stemware. No. What I'm hoping for is an appropriate glass that accurately accompanies the meal, the setting, and the seriousness of the wines served.

For example, it's 8:30pm after a very long day at work. Rumaging through the fridge and I come up with cornichons, prosciutto, marinated olives, some pate, two different cheeses- all to be served along side half a baguette. The wine might be a cru Beaujolais (Christian Bernard's Grands Fers or Clos du Roilette are good examples). The wine is served slightly chilled. I actually don't want a big, brassy, heavy, important glass. A simple bistro tasting glass is perfect.

For simple Italian pizza I actually don't like a wine glass. For me, mentally traveling with the meal I like a small tumbler . It reminds me of a something you might see at local Tuscan trattoria. The wine might be a Toscano Rosso. But with the simplicity of the food, it just tastes more pure in a non-wine glass.

Now, this is not to say that good glassware is not important. Burgundy is Burgundy. And with Burgundy, it simply tastes better in classic big bowled Burg glasses. It just does...Bordeaux and Napa Cab the same...Bordeaux glasses please.

But, if I had to choose one glass to have and use all the time it would be the classic Burgundy glass. Maker, Spieglau- the tried and true, and for me one of the best values. The Burg glasses aren't cheap, but for me they aerate the wine the best and Burgundy is all about the nose. And well, they just seem to make the wine in the glass feel more important. Jayer Hautes Cote de Nuits in a tumbler or a small tasting glass...it just doesn't work.

Where I stand on the Natural Wine debate

2010-11-12T07:13:00.000-08:00

Those in the wine business may have recently noticed that a controversy is coming to a head regarding the marketing of the term natural wine. Those not in the wine business probably have never heard of this; it's a term more used by wine wholesalers to define a wine when selling to a restaurateur or retailer, than it is used by a retailer or restaurateur to educate the general public.

So, in Issue 191 of his Wine Advocate, Mr Robert Parker Jr. wrote the following:

"About these “natural,” unmanipulated and pure wines: One of the major scams being foisted on wine consumers is the so-called “Natural’ wine movement. It is not subjected to any government regulations or any definition beyond that of the individual who has spawned the term. Over 95% of the wines written about in this publication are from producers who make under 5,000 cases and are “natural” wines by nearly any rational definition of the word. They are made without additives or enzymes, and usually have minimal sulphur, but they do contain sulphur as they should because otherwise they are unstable, potentially dangerous and impossible to transport because the wines will spoil. In the case of southern Rhône wines, they simply have no make-up whatsoever. There are no color enzymes, no color added, no artificial flavors, very little acidification, etc., etc. In short, they are grapes fermented into wine with 95% or more aged in neutral wood vessels, concrete vats, stainless steel, etc. A tiny percentage does see aging in new oak casks, or more typically in the southern Rhône, the larger 600-liter demimuids. These are natural wines – make no mistake about it. They are also wines that work wonders with an assortment of cuisines because of the absence of new oak and any makeup."

This position has set off a fire storm of debate about the use of the term natural wine to market wines; and more over whether natural wines even exist at all. Currently there is a 4 page thread (and growing) on the Wine Advocate's Bulletin Board which contains posts from major importer/distributor owners, collectors, wine drinkers, and even Mr Parker himself raking over the coals of this debate.

Where do I stand on this issue?

I do believe in natural wine as a term to describe the style in which one chooses to farm, make, and bottle his/her wines.

I do believe that a more pure, terroir expressive quality can be achieved by attempting to go this route in one's production.

I do believe that this route is incredibly risky in terms of a standardization of product; and I believe that as long as the consumer purchases the wine knowing that it was made in a natural way then the consumer takes this risk on their shoulders (I also believe it is the restaurateur's/retailer's job to make sure the consumer is made aware.)

I do not believe all natural wine is superior to wines made with corrections in the cellar. I believe that the quality I point to in point #2 is totally on a producer by producer, and in many times a wine by wine, basis.

And that's where I stand on the issue.

At the end of the day, it's a wonderful product that enhances the table, our food, and hopefully our lives. But, it's still just fermented grapes. If you like it- drink it. If you don't, drink something else.

Eataly...you gotta go

2010-10-27T18:24:00.001-07:00

Hats off to Joe, Mario and company. A client of mine raved heavy about Eataly. I had heard of it- didn't think much of it. And for the first time in a long time, the hype lived up to the hype.

Think Disney World for Italian food and wine lovers. Seriously. It's awe inspiring. It's fun. It's cool. It's convenient. It's got huge energy. It's affordable. It's quality. It's arguably the greatest commercial example of a living and breathing culture of the table (Italian table) that I've ever seen.

I was blown away. You gotta go...

Eataly

200 5th Ave
New York, NY 10010

P.S.- If you read the reviews you will be scratching your head. Trust me, just go...it's worth it.

The Rules and Etiquette of the Wine Trade Tasting

2010-10-17T17:18:00.000-07:00

Sorry, I've been MIA for awhile. Craziness. Drama. Stuff. Life. I won't get into it. Anyways........I'm back! And I have a lot to write about. Food (of course!). Wine (you know). Glassware (cause I have something to say about glassware now). And the daily grind at the table...

But, before I get into all of those things let me start with the obvious for all of you industry folks out there. In the industry, the Fall and the Spring are the traditional "tasting periods". Importers and distributors will put on these huge trade tastings for the shops and restaurants in advance of the traditional buying season. Huge, as in 500+ wines at a show huge...as in way too many to make deciding and buying even practical.

Anyways, for years the industry itself has collectively- socially- voiced some real problems in tasting etiquette. In essence, there are 'understood' rules to coming to, and participating in, these tastings and yet each and every year many seem to be oblivious to these tasting norms which interferes with the rest of us trying to politely taste. I know this because literally after each and every tasting I've ever attended, every single one of my clients spends no less than 10 minutes on "that/those person(s)..."

So, I'm taking it upon myself to lay down some rules. Thus,

The Rules and Etiquette of the Wine Trade Tasting

(in no particular order or importance)

* Always keep your opinions to yourself (a wine you may hate, someone may love).

* Always compliment the winemaker or winery regardless of your opinion of their wine (they spent an entire year making this product, you may not like it, but you must respect that.)

* Always observe a two foot personal boundary of the tasting table (offer your glass for a taste, receive a pour, step back two feet to allow others to receive a pour as well).

* Always spit. Getting drunk at a tasting is unprofessional.

* When spitting, lean in within 6 inches of the spittoon and controllably spit so as to not create a backsplash for yourself or others.

* The food, regardless of how extravagant it may be, is a courtesy not a right. Never criticize it, the purpose of the tasting is to taste the wines.

* Always be incredibly polite to the winery / winemaker...In essence, they are artists who have made a product and are offering it to you. It may not be to your taste, but at least recognize their work.

* Whenever possible, work your physical body to keep the tasting table in front of you clear and open so that others may come forward and receive a pour.

* Bringing 'friends' who are not in the business is largely frowned upon. However, if this person truly does help you make accurate and current buying decisions then this is acceptable. There is an 'understanding' in this...

* It is always appreciated that tastings be used for business first, pleasure second (in essence, coming to a tasting to simply taste the most extravagant / expensive wine, and that's it, is frowned upon).

And that's all of the rules I can think of right now. I have spoken with many of my clients over more than half a decade regarding this subject. I welcome your input. Place your comments below.

Are you supporting your local pork store?

2010-09-21T20:24:00.000-07:00

One of the great American past time hold overs from days long gone by is the Italian-American pork store. I was recently reminded of this last week when I decided to visit for a coffee and biscotti (although they call it bis-cot; it sounds cooler).

Anyways, I've always been nervous when it comes to prepared foods, but the Italian pork stores seem to have the finest- whether I was in East Hampton, Hoboken, Manhattan, or Brooklyn. The quality is outstanding!

So, I saw some freshly made pizza dough. Some freshly made, in-store, mozzarella. Some freshly made sauce. Voila! Pizza.

It was amazing. And the total cost for two huge pies produced was under $20.

In short- go see your local Italian pork store. Buy some dough, sauce, and mozz. You will be getting insane value and quality for your money.

1% For The Planet

2010-08-09T19:19:00.000-07:00

I started writing this blog awhile back really for me, not you. It was a means of voicing my personal cultural philosophy...a WAY that was deeply grounded in the embrace of food/wine/the table/family-friends/ and all of the accouterments that make this experience the richest it can be.

The accouterments are the food, the wine, the glassware, etc...And the wine I sell. And the more and more I dive deeper into these accouterments the more I find myself looking for things that are 100% original and authentic. Products that are pieces of true craftsmanship and are 100% filled with soul. For me, it's more and more important that there's a related experience through the accouterment product....that the fish was hand-harvested, that the wine came from a biodynamically farmed estate, that the flowers were picked from someone's garden. In short, it's about care.

And in the end, this concept of care doesn't just stop at care of the table. The sourcing of care must descend all the way back to the source of the product- the earth.

Last year, I stumbled upon a trailer for the film 180 South (http://www.180south.com/) by Chris Malloy. Patagonia Clothing Company was heavily involved in the movie and I eventually found myself reading quite a bit about Yvon Chouinard and Patagonia. For me, Chouinard has become a proverbial business mentor. His company is worth hundreds of million of dollars and yet it maintains the feel of a company that was just created by some kids out of a college dorm room. It is anti-establishment in every way, yet feels free enough to sell millions of dollars worth of clothing to Joe and Jane America every day. And the beauty in all of this is that they haven't, nor ever will, sell out. They are 100% authentic, soulfull, and sincerre in everything they do.

One of the tenants of Patagonia has become a staunch aggressive stance on pro-environmental issues. In fact, they have become the first members of a group called 1% For The Planet in order to actively care for the planet.

And that's where I'll tie all of this together. To love the table, to love the food, and the wine, and all that is the dining experience- and life for that matter- and simply ignore the environmental problems around us is simply arrogance. It's not dreaming. If you think otherwise, go to the Gulf coast and ask some blue collar fisherman what they think about the importance of environmentalism...Cause that could be us Northeasterners, or Westcoasters, or whoever next week!

And so....

If you own a business, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND that you go and visit Patagonia's Tin Shed (http://www.patagonia.com/web/us/tinshed/index.jsp?ln=263). Click on the link for 1% For The Planet. Listen to Yvon and co.

Once you do- and you think about the Gulf- it becomes a no brainer.

What I look for in wine

2010-06-30T20:23:00.000-07:00

"What do you look for in wine?"

Being in the business, I'm asked this a lot. I like transparent wines. I want to taste where they come from. I want simple wines, but wines that are so pure, so authentic, that their complexity and depth is whimsically hidden by how simply they can come across. It's a little tough to explain.

I recently came across a quote which I think sums up the way I want my wine:

"Have you ever thought, not only about the airplane but whatever man builds, that all of man's industrial efforts, all his computations and calculations, all the nights spent working over draughts and blueprints, invariably culminate in the production of a thing whose sole and guiding principle is the ultimate principle of simplicity?

It is as if there were a natural law which ordained that to achieve this end, to refine the curve of a piece of furniture, or a ship's keel, or the fuselage of an airplane, until gradually it partakes of the elementary purity of the curve of the human breast or shoulder, there must be experimentation of several generations of craftsmen. In anything at all, perfection is finally attained not when there is no longer anything to add, but when there is no longer anything to take away, when a body has been stripped down to its nakedness."

-Antoine de Saint Exupéry

I like it when I taste a wine and it's so pure, so authentic that there's nothing for me to wonder about it. I just exist next to it, it's that deep.

Truth in Wine Importing

2010-06-16T10:30:00.000-07:00

I have to say that I do work in an exciting industry. It's not the CIA, but terrorism is an issue in importing wine. Our South American buyer sent this to me the other day...

"There is always a first for everything; our container from Argentina was stolen at port in Buenos Aires earlier today. At gun point, the driver was asked to walk away from the trailer; the thieves drove away with all of the wine.

I’m trying to get the wineries to prepare the same orders as quickly as possible."

So, if you're ever frustrated as to why the wine you love is out of stock, please keep in mind that piracy and many many other anomalies are potential issues.

The proper way to serve corn.

2010-06-11T18:29:00.000-07:00

So simple, but I have to be a proponent.

Go buy some corn. DO NOT SHUCK THE CORN!

Fire up the grill. Put the corn on and grill them (husks and all) for about 10-15 minutes until the outside of the husks look well charred...like the corn kind of subliminally looks cooked.

Pull from grill and put on platter. Wait. Let the corns cool off some. After 10 minutes or so, shuck the corns. Finish by rolling the cooked corn (shucked by now) in salt, pepper, and walnut oil.

Serve with a village Maconnais wine.

Belons

2010-05-17T19:57:00.000-07:00

They'll haunt me forever. Yellow-greenish. Earthy. Muddy. Musky. They drink of river bank. Nickel sears the back corner of your mouth for hours. More earth and estuary revolving over and over your tongue. Mushrooms. Intense dark mud.

By all accounts this was the weirdest ocean creatures I've ever eaten. I'm actually not sure I enjoyed eating it.

But, I'm still tasting it and I can stop thinking about the tasting experience.

In his work A Geography of Oysters Rowan Jacobsen writes, "Belons are off-putting and overwhelming, like an anchovy dipped in zinc. Most people can't take them. But if you can take them, you may find that very soon you can't stop taking them. You will be on your way to joining the cadre of Belon addicts."

Not quite sure I'm a Belon addict yet. But, I'm definitely way interested in a really really funky way...

PS- requires wine!

Saffron Risotto with Rock Shrimp and Peas

2010-05-10T19:33:00.000-07:00

Saffron Risotto with Rock Shrimp and Peas

First, go out to your garden and gather some herbs. I got some fresh chives, fresh parsley, and fresh basil. Wash them. Dry them. Chop finely. Set aside.

Get a large pan on your stove and heat it up. While heating, take a can of chicken stock and pour it into a sauce pan and heat on low. Dice an entire onion. Peel a garlic clove. Get out some frozen peas- set aside. Make sure you have some saffron. And dice up some bacon. Take out rock shrimp and salt and pepper them. Get 1 cup of Arborio Rice. Have butter handy. Finely grade about a cup of Parmesan cheese.

Add bacon to the large pot and cook to browned/crisp. Remove bacon to plate lined with paper towel. With bacon grease still in pan, add rock shrimp. Cook to almost finished- 2 minutes. Remove shrimp to plate. Add a tablespoon of butter and melt. Add onion and peeled garlic clove. Sweat down onion. Add rice and saffron. Stir to coat rice and spread in saffron.

Pan should be quite hot by now. Add a decent amount of stock- to almost cover all ingredients. Stir to deglaze pan and stir in all ingredients. Cook down liquid, then add a little bit more. There's a feed/starve thing happening here with the rice as it grows. Continue to feed/starve rice (if you run out of stock, use water) and once the rice tastes plump but still crunchy at center, stop adding water. Turn heat to low.

Wait until the water starts to get eaten up. Add another dollop of butter. Then start adding cheese- add some, stir it in, add some some more, stir it in- until finished. Watch thickness as cheese is thickener here. Check for seasoning. Salt if needed. Add your peas. Stir in and let cook for a couple of minutes. Add your herb fines. Stir in.

Serve. Sprinkle with bacon crisps.

Wine: Dierberg Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley 2006...or 2007

Puerto Rican Truffles- Mobile!

2010-04-26T17:48:00.000-07:00

Puerto Rican land crabs...on this island they are the official Caribbean mobile living truffles.

We rented a house on the beach in Rincon this past week. To get to it you drove down this long driveway that was bordered by jungle and grassy marsh. And each day we noticed a bunch of cars pulling up to the edge of our house and these very rustic looking Puerto Rican locals would get out and head into the woods. They were secretive about what they were doing, quiet, and we're carrying machetes.

Finally, my wife just walked up to one and said- "What are you guys doing back there?" Honestly, I was torn between fear for her and amazement that she had the guts to just walk up them (you know, considering the machete thing and all...).

The man was actually a medical assistant at a hospital, totally well educated, spoke English perfectly and all of that even though he was covered in biting red ants, flies, and other bugs. He said he and his cousins had been working these fields for quite some time- patiently checking their traps each day for land crabs. They're fast, nasty, and they bite badly- as was displayed by his bleeding thumb.

A bushel of 20 or so was $40 wholesale. And so, the next day he came back with one. He was very excited for us to try them. You have to boil them a couple of times to get out the dirt and piss he said (yes...piss), but then he promised they would be amazing.

How were they? Think eel crossed with porcinis. It's a very earthy palate. Not sure I liked them, but I know I didn't not like them. The sofrito verde I served them with pretty much melded the funky earthiness out of them. Brought it back to more of a "crab" palate.

Regardless, in Puerto Rico- this is it! The creme de la creme- the best. The Caribbean truffles: Puerto Rican land crabs.

It's time for Smells Like Teen Spirit again...

2010-04-08T18:09:00.000-07:00

Am I alone in saying that food/wine are in a rut? It almost feels like that period in the late '80s for music- at the end of Guns & Roses' time- when music was just all around boring. And then came Smells like Teen Spirit...

I dined at an excellent restaurant the other night- Mosaic in St James, Long Island. It reminded me a little of Cesare in Barolo as both Cesare and the chefs at Mosaic don't do a la carte menus. Both sets of chef(s) start their days at the market and then build their restaurant's menu from scratch every single day.

I have to say that if I were a restauranteur I would be shaking my head. How does the business model work? How do you control costs consistently? What about the regulars who come weekly to dine on their favorite standard dishes? Etc...

But as a diner, this rocks. I can cook. Well, I think I can cook all right, but let's just say I can get around the kitchen and make something edible without much stress. And left with enough time and resources I can probably tackle Keller recipes all right. So, going out to dine is more theatre for me. I want two things: I want to be fed (I hate 1 ounce portions) and I want my oral eyes to be opened. I want to be wow'd.

And one more thing- I don't want to choose. When I go to a restaurant I'm in someone else's kitchen, not my own...I want to eat what they think is good.

And so, all of this ranting and raving for a single statement....Restauranteurs, my perfect restaurant: You show up. There is one price. And then the chef just starts sending small plates- lots of them. If wine list- awesome- older vintages please, priced well. If not, a beautiful by-the-carafe rouge and blanc. Simple. Fresh, and pure. Both chilled.

That's it. Give me Picasso, Monet, Van Gogh....but please not Hallmark.

Maybe it's time for Smells Like Teen Spirit again?

Trust Yourself

2010-03-31T19:19:00.000-07:00

I was emailing back and forth with someone today about wine. This person revealed that they thought their palate was un-sophisticated and maybe even un-worthy of tasting through great wines.

Hogwash!

Let me just say this to the world. Sadly, there are those in the wine world that are exclusionary and treat wine like it's an insider's fraternity- where only the special bottles are opened for those who will appreciate them. I disagree one hundred percent.

All I need to see is a general interest. If you enjoy wine..if you enjoy food...I could honestly care less about how much you know. I believe wine and food are about the relationship- about the sharing of a moment over a great dish, a great glass. Where you come from does not matter. What matters is that we are both in the moment and participating in the shared enjoyment of the dish/glass.

So, please...if you ever are reading my blog, food blogs, wine blogs, or food/wine stuff in general...never, ever feel as though you are not worthy of appreciating the food and wine that I(we) write about.

The relationship always comes first...after all, some of the best wines I've ever had have been inexpensive and unsophisticated...but always in the right company and at the right time...and they have blown my mind.

The "IT" Albarino

2010-03-24T20:04:00.000-07:00

How was Spain?

Well, here I am sitting on the back of a boat ("I'm on boat...on a boat...Never thought I'd be on a boat..."- see Adam Samberg) half way to Nirvana slurping oysters with lemon juice and drinking what- in my opinion- is the next "IT" Rias Baixas Albarino.

I first noticed Lagar de Costa over last year's Thanksgiving dinner. I liked the label- isn't that how we all find many new "it" wines? Anyways, I remember remarking to myself that I loved the combination of power, grace, elegance, and minerality. It was a wine that took the best of all that Albarino had to offer and also made it semi-affordable.

So, after meeting the Costa fam, and slurping osyters with them and friends on the back of a boat...well, I'm now head over heels.

Folks, Lagar de Costa. Pound for pound....Well, ya'll know I can't use "the best"...but, if I could......

For me, it's the "IT" Albarino.

FLOUNDER

2010-03-09T19:58:00.000-08:00

I live in Springs, New York. My client base extends all the way to Queens so on any given day I might have a 2.5 hr commute home. Today wasn't so bad...1.5 hours home. The wifey called about an hour out and said she'd bought flounder and she was starving and she wanted to be fed ASAP upon my arrival. My recipe...

FLOUNDER w/ capers

(This should take 15-20 minutes tops)

Take a long saute pan and put it over the burner on high. Take out flounder fillets and salt/pepper both sides. Leave. Take out shallow wide bowl and fill with small amount of milk. Take out small plate and fill with flour. Check to see if saute pan is hot hot. It should be hot hot by now. Add veggie oil and butter. Melt. Douse flounder fillet in milk, then thoroughly dredge in flour- both sides. Shake off excess. Put in saute pan and cook. Cook until cooked meat seems 2/3 up side of fish. Flip. Cook for 3 minutes or so more on other side. Take fillet out of pan and rest on plate. If more fillets cook them same way (adding more oil if needs be). Once done, pour off oil. Wipe out pan with paper towel. Add half stick butter, 2 tablespoons of capers with juice and the juice of 1 lemon. Reduce until butter is browned. Add finely chopped parseley if you want.

Plate flounder fillet. Sauce with caper butter.

Wife (or husband, or loved one) will thank you later.

WINE: Paul Paquet Saint Veran La Grande Bruyere 2007...amazing yeast/lemon/honey notes

Re-Learning Bordeaux

2010-02-24T07:26:00.001-08:00

First trip of the year and I'm about to head over to Bordeaux. I haven't been back since I worked there in 2003. I am excited, yet I am apprehensive. Bordeaux, to me, can be great and exalting, but it can also be a harbinger of the worst in wine as well. Napa Valley over here mirrors this troubling dichotomy. I remember in 2003 having lunch with some heavy weight Bordelaise company CEO- the guy owned over a dozen properties and many more designer wine labels- and I listened to him as all he discussed was distribution, and branding, and selling product.

No doubt, selling product, whether you are Coke or whether you are the smallest little farmer selling a couple of hand picked organics eggs each week, cannot be ignored. But, I think there's a "right way" to do it. Each product, and in wine- each wine, each estate- has its own merits. Every time you visit an estate there's something special that's happening there that makes it different than the others and unique inside a larger portfolio. Price structuring is not that difference- although talk to many marketers, listen to that old Bordeaux CEO, and that's what they talk about. Consumers, more importantly people, could give a shit less about price structuring. What they and I (cause yes, I buy my share of wine and eggs too!) care about is authenticity, soul, value, and a sense of connection to why a product, and/or a wine, is created.

A distinctly remember being in Napa almost 5 years ago. Napa trips are long and often grueling because it's a place wrought with a lot of the above- the negative side especially. And at the end of the trip we visited this very small producer way up on Spring Mountain. The winemaker was cool. The family that owned the property was incredibly wealthy. There was a pool there and horses. And we were tasting through the estate's lineup over lunch with the winemaker and the wife. I was very tired, and after hearing all about "how well we think this varietal does here" and "how delicious these wines are" I finally lost my patience and asked- "So, why did you make this wine?" You would have thought a bomb exploded at the end of this table. But, hats of to the winemaker. She dropped the marketing BS and immediately moved into the story of the site she was working, her passion for old vine Petit Verdot and Cab Franc and what she thought those varietals would bring to a Napa Cab, and where she wanted to take the wine so that it would age with grace and beauty. Obviously, I respect her for that.

Anyways, I am excited to head over to Bordeaux. St Emilion is an amazing town- arguably the most beautiful in all of France. And I'm going to see Jean Luc Thunevin. The Anti-Bordelaise. What am I most excited about? I want to hear Jean Luc talk about the estate's he works with, and I want to hear him talk about why he works with them. I want to see behind the curtains and get a look at what makes Bordeaux special again.

Help!

2010-02-15T19:51:00.000-08:00

So, the wife has me slow cooking. I'm not a fan- I must admit. By nature, I am an absolute classicist. Cheat sheets and corner cutting have never done it for me. Plain and simple, I'm a work hard and earn your keep kind of guy...And so with food, if I want a braised beef, I'll use a Creuset and braise the brisket for 5 hours or so the old fashioned way.

So, I slow cooked some chicken. It came out bland, but I did make the huge mistake of not browning it first. Hey, you learn.

But, I guess my big problem with the slow cooker is the loss of the relationship between dish and cook. You stick all of the ingredients in the pot. You close the lid. You open the lid 4 or 9 hours later. Voila. Cooked food. Sorry, but for me the creation of a dish- watching it progress into something- has always been a big part of what the enjoyment of food is all about. Carmelizing the meat. Seeing the sofrito come together. The deglaze. The seasoning. The finishing fat. These decisions and others are for me what make cooking an art, and to take that away- or maybe more accurately minimize them, simplify them- I don't know...

I guess its better than microwaving, yes?

So, I toss it back to the reader. Slow cooking. You a fan? If you are, tips on keeping some soul in the food?

A Requirement: My New Orleans

2010-02-09T19:46:00.000-08:00

First, for any skeptics out there (and I am one of you), I am receiving $0.00 for this. This comes from the heart.

Not since Marcella Hazan and Richard Olney have I seen a "cookbook" done so well. Yes, heavy, I know. To be short and to the point John Besh's new work My New Orleans is a requirement in your culinary library.

I picked it up two weeks ago at Borders for about $45. Yes, I was initially caught by the vivid pictures. (By the way, to any aspiring food/cookbook authors out there, we eat with our eyes- include really good photos please! Only Marcella and Pierre can get away without them.) But, then I dove into the work itself and I have to say- the guy transports you into the back streets and old family backyards of his hometown. You leaf through his book and you might as well be walking through Antebellum houses eating beignets and smelling sauteed andouille.

Recipe-wise this is the real deal. There's no corner cutting. There's no quick fixes. This is bon femme New Orleans in its most original form, and I'm talking down to the seasonality of when they use citrus and tomatoes. It is highly detailed into the philosophy of New Orlean's cooking and not only adds cultural context, but also backs up the chemistry and ancestral foundations of why decisions are made in recipes; it's ridiculously thorough.

For the Super Bowl I ended making his Jamabalaya. Amazing. The aromatics alone blow any New Orleans' Jamabalya recipe I've ever tasted away. And because Besh is a huge fan of layered cooking (a la Hazan style) the depth and complexity in his dishes are amazing. Let's put it this way, my wife was scarfing down andouille sausage. Yep. Saw it with my own eyes...:)

And to sing this work's praises some more- it takes a cuisine that this 'yankee' thought of as simple and fun and makes it haute. It elevates it into an art form in a way a great French chef can elevate a simple vinaigrette. For me, I think Besh has left us with a tome for the American culinary world. A new bible.

And if this guy doesn't get a Beard award for this, then Beard awards don't mean anything anymore...

Anyways, My New Orleans by John Besh. Amazon has it at $29.70. I still think it's worth $45. And I'd pay $45 tomorrow for it.

Christian Troy's Sanity is found in Pommes Chateau Chinon

2010-01-21T20:09:00.000-08:00

I found myself in a client's shop today discussing the conditions/trials/tribulations of being a young father. Sleep deprivation was brought up. Management of wife expectations was discussed. The ability to balance work/life pressures was surely at the top of the list. And I...probably like every mid-30s guy with kids...am finding solace in late night solo dinners.

I start work early...it should be 5:30, but with current sleep deprivation its around 7:30. I finish work at around 8. I come home, and the kids are headed up to bed, the house is settling, and somewhere around 9-9:30 I get to cook dinner. I know, physiologically this is an absolutely horrible time to "enjoy" food. I should eat an apple and go to bed, a good nutritionist would say. But then I would not be enjoying life...

Tonight is a classic example. Started work at 8- very late, but was shot from night before. On road all day and finally got home at 8....pm. Came home and immediately spent some time with the family. Hugged my son and read him some books, etc...And then around 9-9:30 as my wife took him upstairs to bed (my wife rocks!) I cooked a classic Bisteca Fiorentina with Pommes Chateau Chinon.

Sat down. Drank a glass of Cab. Nothing amazing, but good. And ate. Solace in the table. And the day is done.

I actually use a modified version of Pommes Cht Chinon. See below:

Take 1 large potato. Peel it. Grate it with a large cheese grater. In small handfulls, take the potato gratings and over a sink, squeeze out the water until the left gratings are relatively dry. Put them all in a mixing bowl. Add some parmesan cheese. Salt. Pepper. Add one egg. And using your hands mix the ingredients together like you were making homemade hamburger patties. Form into small flat patties. You must squeeze them tightly sometimes to get them to stick to form.

Heat a cast iron skillet to high. Add vegetable oil and one pat of butter. Add potato patties you just made. Cook like you are cooking pancakes. Brown on both sides and be sure to cook through but not to burn. When done, transfer to plate lined with paper towel to catch excess oil.

If you're not listening to great music while tasting great wine...it's all lost...

2010-01-18T18:58:00.000-08:00

2006 Chateauneuf

2010-01-13T06:21:00.001-08:00

Lunar Tasting Group met last night. Wines tasted:

Rayas Fonsalette 2004

Prefert Cuvee Charles Giraud 2006

Amandiere Cuvee Imperiale 2006

Clos St Jean Vieilles Vignes 2006

Vieux Lazaret 2006

Vieux Telegraph 2006 (2 separate bottles)

La Roquette 2005

Vieille Julienne 2006

Marcoux 2005

For me, the heads and tales wine above them all was the Vieille Julienne. Simply showing amazing right now...forrest floor, truffles. My exact note reads, "walking through forrest in October hunting black truffles..."

For the most part the 2006s were totally shut down. They were blocky and heavy, and overall I found myself worrying if their fruit there that would eventually show itself, or were the wines all tannin and structure? They're in an awkward stage and are solidly vins du garde right now.

On a side note, the La Roquette- which is considered a value Chateauneuf- showed beautifully. Little more meaty and heavy than the Julienne, but lovely and excellent considering the price.

Carrots

2010-01-09T19:33:00.000-08:00

Ok, so I automatically admit to borrowing/stealing from Ed Brown. I saw him on the Today Show and he whipped out these roast carrots. Then I proceeded to watch Matt and crew knock these thing back like shots at a college homecoming and I thought, "Mental note kid..."

The carrots by themselves are stupid easy. And as far as I remember, Brown only finished his carrots with parsley, so I think I can take ownership of this full recipe. Regardless, wifey declared this the finest side dish I've ever made. Little man wolfed them down, and I enjoyed half a dozen myself. In short, they are quite tasty (and simple to make).

Roast Carrots with Sherry Vinaigrette

First and foremost, buy good carrots. This means, stems and leaves attached. It means not pre-packaged in a plastic bag. It means organic. And in a perfect world you even know the farm they came from. Bring them home. Cut off the stems (leave a little stem). Wash them to get all the dirt of them. DO NOT peel them. Take some paper towels out and roll them around in the towels until the carrots are reasonably dry.

Preheat the oven to 375. Convection on if possible.

Find yourself a large cookie sheet (or some form of other worthy pan that will easily fit all of the carrots in.) Lay the carrots down. Lazily drizzle a couple glugs of olive oil over the carrots. Crack pepper them. Douse them in generous sea salt. Roll the carrots around to make sure they're all well covered. Stick them in the oven. Generally time that at 30 minutes to start watching them.

Meanwhile...in a non-reactive bowl (ie- ceramic...stainless steel does something with acid and ingredients which I simply do not know how to explain, but whatever it is...it's not tasty) add a bunch of very finely chopped shallots, a pinch of finely chopped garlic (just a pinch please here), cracked pepper, sea salt, a dollop of Maille mustard or Grey Poupon (ie- not Goldens or Frenches, etc), and a good squig of Spanish Sherry Vinegar (good sherry vinegar please). Stir until the mustard and vinegar mix to together and the mustard is dissolved. Let sit 10 minutes.

30 minutes passes. Take a look at the carrots. They should be shrunk. The ends should have started to caramelize (ie- turn brown). The skin should look wrinkled. The smell should be wonderful. The point of pulling them out is a feel thing. Err on a couple more minutes if in doubt. Pull them. Let them sit for a couple of minutes.

Once you've pulled the carrots, turn to your vinaigrette bowl. Add 2 good glugs of vegetable oil and with a whisk beat the vinaigrette vigorously until it comes together. Once it comes together, add one good glug of olive oil. Again, beat to reform a vinaigrette. It should be thick with chunks of shallot/garlic in it.

Plate carrots. Sauce with vinaigrette. Watch the light of God descend upon you as all who taste bow down at your culinary thrown. Yes, I'm in a playful mood tonight...

Wine? They were delicious with a bottle of Javier Sanz Villa Narcisca Rueda Verdejo 2008 (Spanish white).

Green Peppers

2009-12-30T20:17:00.000-08:00

I find myself embracing the green bell pepper more and more these days.

Can't really explain it. But, there's this depth of flavor that it adds to a lot dishes- kind of like a bridge between the green of parseley and fresh herbs, and the earth of broccoli and dark greens. Maybe it's Winter and the cold?

Tonight I made a Spanish torta with cheese, onions, garlic, green pepper, potato, and mushrooms. Had a glass of day 2 Cartagena Sauvignon- which was freaking singing by the way, take note of this producer- and the wine, egg, and pepper went together famously.

It's funny, in wine green bell pepper is considered an unwanted flavor- a flaw. I'm beginning to wonder if that's wrong, or if I'm just getting older...

Basque Chicken

2009-12-13T13:04:00.000-08:00

A simply marvelous dish the other week: Basque styled chicken.

As usual, I headed back to the study of my wife's grandfather Pierre Franey for the fundamentals. In leafing through a number of his books I discovered some themes within his technique and sauces. There is definitely a Spanish, or Iberian, or Basque theme- whatever you want to call it really- but it comes when the classic French saute structure sees a hefty dose of garlic, both green and red peppers, tomatoes, olives and some form of heat- chiles, red pepper flakes, etc...

Here is the recipe below. I actually added a nice hefty dollop of Tabasco in at the end which really deepened the flavor.

You would think that you should serve something like Basque Chicken with a Basque red, yes? Well, maybe, but the Basque region is known for its whites called Txakolina. This is super crispy white made from the grape Hondarribi Zuri. Lemon acid, a little spritz, and a high saline quotient make this a no brainer when oystering, or chowing on shellfish.

So, your next thought might be a Rioja, or Ribera del Duero- classic Spanish reds. I would also pass on these. Garlic, olive oil and tomatoes scream the Mediterranean for me and that puts us closer to Barcelona and with the power of the sauce and the heat of the red pepper or Tabasco I would want a raw, earthy, sun roasted wine. In Spain, I'd look at the Monastrells of Alicante- the peninsula that sticks out in the Med, south of Barcelona. I'd also highly recommending heading North into the Languedoc-Rousillon area of France. (I actually had an amazing Costieres de Nimes, Chateau la Baume, with my Basque Chicken.) Anyways...the preparation is classic and can be done with pork, chicken, lamb, or steak...Make sure to adjust pan roasting time based on how long you need to cook the meat.

Basque Chicken (as adopted from Pierre Franey)

Take out a large roasting dish, a huge Creuset pot with a heavy lid will do. Put it on the stove and set the heat to high. Turn the oven on to 400 degrees. Take 2 chicken breasts (skin on) and lightly dredge them in flour. Add oil to the pot and add chicken breasts skin side down. Salt and pepper them. Let them cook until the skin has caramelized and is golden brown. Once brownness is achieved, flip the breasts and cook 2-3 minutes on the other side. At this point, the skin should looked cooked, but the meat will probably still look pretty raw.

While your browning the chicken do your chopping and prepping.

Chop up 1 large onion.

Chop up 3 cloves of garlic.

Chop up 1 green pepper.

Chop up 1 red pepper.

Get some pitted olives.

Open a can of San Marzano tomatoes and mash the whole tomatoes with a fork so that they're rather broken up.

Open up your beef stock and make sure its ready.

Make sure you have some white wine.

Check to make sure you have your spices- bay leaf, dried thyme, salt pepper.

Getting back to the chicken. After those 2-3 minutes on the meat side, take chicken out of the pot and set aside. Add onions and garlic to the pot. Stir around for about 2 minutes to coat. Add peppers to the pot. Cook about 3-4 minutes (let them start to cook.) Then add bay leaf and large pinch of dried thyme. Make sure mixture is thoroughly cooking by now- then hit it with a shot of white wine. Deglaze the pan by scraping up the bottom. Put the chicken breasts back in the pot. Add the tomatoes now. Add a shot of beef stock- not too much...you want it to marry with everything, not water it all down. Add your Tabasco now. Add the olives. Salt and pepper some more.

Now, cover the pot with the lid and stick it in the oven (or per Pierre, you can let it cook on the stove if you don't want to start your oven.) For chicken, I like it really roasting for about 20 minutes. The flavors will come together and the chicken should be just done. Pork, maybe 25 minutes.

Make some rice.

Plate with rice and add breast over rice with sauce on top. Maybe finish with chopped parseley.

Serve with a Mediterranean red.

A denouncement of The Best

2009-11-25T12:37:00.000-08:00

I finally have taken my first week off in over a year. Feel's good. A little weird I must admit to downshift, but good. The reason was the birth of my daughter Arabella. A miracle and an absolute gift. You can tell I'm smitten and in love, can't you...:)

Two things caught my eye this week that I wanted to share though...

The first was the 2009 Winter Holiday Season Catalog from Patagonia. Normally clothes catalogs are nice to flip through for about 30 seconds but that's it for me. This one is widely different and I think Yves Choinard and Patagonia have created the perfect business meets life trip/story I've ever seen. The catalog is featured around the release of the Malloy movie 180 South and is a re-creation of the original trip done by pals Yves Choinard and Doug Tompkins traveling from California to Chile, and finishing in Patagonia. The trip is re-created by surfer/adventurer/mountain climber Jeff Johnson. I've yet to see the film but it looks amazing. A complete purist view of the world venturing to one of the purest places in the world...for no reason other than to do a trip.

And my magazine trolling also saw me looking at a lot of, well, magazines. And I began to notice something. The word, or better yet, the expression- "the best" is used way too much in our society. The Best. What does that mean?

If I write and tell you that a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is "the best" does that mean that every other Napa Cab pails in comparison?

If you read a restaurant review and the writer says that a restaurant makes "the best" butternut squash soup does that mean that every time you go to another restaurant and order butternut squash soup you know you are ordering a second rate soup?

I am red handed in this. For years I've used this phrase to sell a lot of wine. My daily emailed offering constantly included the phrase "the best". The Best Chianti for Under $15. The Best 10 Wines for the Holidays. The Best White Burgundy Value. What does the phrase do- it certainly catches your attention which is why it's used so much. It's why I used it. But is it honest? Even after honestly extolling the virtues of what may be an absolutely excellent choice White Burgundy-one that may be at a quality much higher than most of its peers- is it right or correct to say that that wine is "The Best" White Burgundy?

No. It is not.

The Culture of the Table is about the complete embrace of life and relationships centering around what happens at the table. Each experience table side is different, carrying its own background and context, and for that reason there never is any best. There are fantastic moments, great highs, unbelievable treasured meals, and magnificent wines...But without the people with you at the place in time, with the back drop of the setting, and the circumstances of the day...nothing tastes and feels as good. In essence, embracing The Culture of the Table is embracing a living terroir very much like Jeff Johnson embraced life by traveling down to Patagonia.

So, why the big diatribe and all of that about this phrase that basically means nothing but sells a ridiculous amount of product? It is because from this point on I have decided to never use that phrase again. It's not honest. It carries no integrity. It does not tell the story of the table. And it explains nothing of a living terroir.

Embrace your relationships and the moment- cherish them. They are the foundation of the Table.

Happy Thanksgiving. All my best to your family.

Christian

Embrace poverty!

2009-11-07T17:56:00.000-08:00

Maybe it's Winter, but I find myself moving more and more into my Lyonnais hole. As all know, Lyon is the Gastronomic center of France- many regard it as the food capital of the Western world. It's famous for its famous chefs- Paul Bocuse, Jacques Pepin, and Daniel Boulod amongst countless others. But, it's not the haute cuisine that inspires me. It's the brasseries, the bistros, and cafes. Dishes involving pork, braised "off" cuts of meat, and the baguette as the spoon of choice. Mustard is more important than salt and pepper- table side.

The recession is over I guess, but times are still tough. Me? I'm celebrating the times. I'm re-discovering pork. I made my first mornay sauce last week and yes, I need some work, but I found it amazing that a little flour, butter, cream, eggs, and cheese could elevate broccoli in such a way.

Lentils have become fashionable in my household.

And in wine, I find myself enamored with the Grand Crus of Lyon- Les Crus de Beaujolais. These are the best of the best, finest wines produced by artisanal growers working traditionally. And many blow the pants off of Burgundies from the North costing 3, 4, 5x as much.

Marcel LaPierre's Morgon 2007 is one of my favorites...Arguably one of the finest red wines that can be drunk table side- and a legend within its own appellation. Under $25bt retail. Earth. Minerals. Reduced black cherry. Yet, fresh and with an acidity that penetrates fat like a knife through warm butter.

Embrace poverty. Slow down. For me, with such humble ingredients, my table is more rich than its ever been.

Cru Beaujolais producers to search out:

LaPierre
Desvignes
Jean Paul Brun
Trenel
Clos de Roilette
Tete
Christian Bernard
Chignard
Chauvet
Michaud
Descombes
Diochon
Guy Breton

If you don't feel like cooking- no worries. Get a fantastic, classic french styled baguette, some cornichons, some saussicon, some marinated olives, some comte cheese, some pate, a head of Boston lettuce. Make a vinaigrette from a shaken mixture of a dollop of dijon mustard, salt and pepper, 1 part red wine vinegar, 3 parts vegetable oil. Pour over lettuce head. Serve with other ingredients and a bottle of one of the above.

Finish bottle!

I'm Back!!!

2009-11-07T05:41:00.000-08:00

You may have noticed a hiatus in the posts. My apologies.

A fantastic chicken curry and beer last night.

Will post more soon.

2003 Pontet-Canet

2009-08-31T10:04:00.000-07:00

My sister-in-law brought home a bottle of Pontet-Canet 2003 yesterday. She asked if it was a good bottle. Yes, I responded. Pontet-Canet is a good producer. And that's what I thought. Classified growth Left Bank Bordeaux. Probably Michel Rollanded and over-made, I anticipated. Forgettable and over-priced, I assumed.

No.

There was a glass left, so I decided to have a glass with lunch as I'm working from home today. And what I found has re-opened my eyes to Classified Growth Bordeaux. Parker writes this is a definition of cassis. I completely disagree. Scorched earth and dark chocolate- yes. But more important, the wine delivers depth and power without a huge overly made alcoholic mouthfull. In short- it's balanced. There's structure here and even acidity which I can't believe for this vintage!?

Is it over priced? Yes. Even now, I'm seeing sticker prices at around $70bt. I think it drinks that and I think that's a fair price to pay for this quality. But, I would wait as ties they days demand patience. There are 2004s on the shelf, and the glorious 2005s (greatest ever vintage) are languishing.

So, be patient and when this wine dips below $40bt...buy it all.

The Lesson of Sous Vide

2009-08-26T19:10:00.000-07:00

There's my boy doing his rendition of tuna, sous vide, complete with plastic orange letter "w" in the preparation.

I thought it was so cool that he started playing around with this thin slice of tuna and then he noticed that if he submerged it into hot water it changed color- it was cooking.

Sous vide is some what controversial, but any great chef I've talked to has said it's THE way to perfectly cook food. It concentrates better. It cooks perfectly uniformly. It allows for so much more control in the professional kitchen. Will it eventually make its way to the household kitchen? Well, it would guarantee that your chicken is properly cooked- your whole chicken.

But, I (and many of my chef friends as well) wonder if sous vide takes away some of the soul of cooking. It brings into play the 'perfection' question and whether being slightly imperfect is actually a better thing.

I guess it's summed up like this: is it better to be consistent or to have character?

Funny, that the business mind of me says consistency, but the humanity of me wants character- in food, wine, and at the table.

Malliouhana

2009-07-29T19:54:00.000-07:00

One of THE super great, under the radar resort destinations based in Anguilla. I recommend it because I'm desperately feeling the need for a vacation, but with a baby girl coming this Fall...well, I'm not going anywhere. Probably the best high caliber food and wine destination I've been to in all of the Caribbean.

If you do ever make it here, make sure to have the lobster omelet with a bottle of Raveneau (multiple wines for amazingly only around $60+bt)!?

The Brilliance of Dried Oregano

2009-07-27T04:15:00.000-07:00

I worked hard yesterday. Fully cleared out a third of my backyard. Laid seed and organic fertilizer. And where's the rain I was supposed to get? Ah well, the weather is funny. I was tired and I was very happy when after getting out of the shower my wife had takeout pizza ready to go for me.

As a traveling salesperson I eat a lot of pizza. In fact, I would go to say that the finest pizza connoisseurs in the world simply have to be traveling salespeople. It just makes sense. So, as a pizza connoisseur you become highly sensitive to the subtle taste of the sauce, the texture of the crust, the integration of the cheese, sauce, and crust. And salt- you can literally measure the salt of each component of the slice.

Last night's pizza? Pretty forgettable. But, as a sales person I also succumb to a lot of very forgettable pizza. My trick is to dress it up with dried oregano. It's amazing how a teaspoon of dried oregano can freshen up a pretty bad slice of pizza. Fresh oregano would have been even better. Ah, the incredibleness of fresh herbs.

I downed a couple glasses of white lambrusco. Dry. Very saline. Was excellent and pretty cool considering you never see this wine in the States. And all was right in the world...

Pain Grille

2009-07-20T19:12:00.000-07:00

Go get a big 'ole hunk of Tuscan peasant bread. Slice into 1/2 inch slices. Open your outside grill and prep to high heat. Before putting each slice of bread down use a brush and lather thoroughly with olive oil- both sides!

Cook like you were cooking a piece of tuna fish. Watch for the lovely grill marks, and don't burn the sides too much. Immediatley after you pull the slices of bread from grill spirnkle with kosher salt and cracked pepper.

Serve along side salad and grilled meat.

Arguably one of the best accompaniments to any Summer dinner.

Shopping for Arabella

2009-07-01T17:08:00.000-07:00

I'm very fortunate with my son, Charlie. Born in 2006. Think of all of the treasures that must be put away for him:

2006 Tuscany
2006 Burgundy
2006 Northern Rhones
2006 Barolo
actually pretty much 2006 anything Italian...

And now Arabella will come. Born in 2009. I still have to do my research but I'm hoping for a great Champagne year. And of course, as always, a great year in Burgundy...

Duryea's

2009-06-14T17:26:00.000-07:00

It is arguably one of my top 5 restaurants on the planet. I've visited France extensively, Italy a couple of times, Ireland, Britain, the Virgin Islands, California a couple of times, Spain, and Japan...but this little seaside restaurant blows most of 'em out of the water.

It is an old (and still operational) lobster and seafood wholesaler- not a middle man mind you, but a direct from sea to market. The wholesale building actually sits on this North/Northwest facing bay and if you dine between 5pm and 7pm you catch a magnificent sunset right in the face. Plastic tables and chairs and a wood deck that is the beginnings of an old abandoned dock from the times when the boast would actually pull up to the wholesaler with their catch of the day (times have changed now and Duryea's has a number of vans to go purchase from the ships at their slips).

The menu is simple- clam chowder, steamed mussels with butter, salad, boiled lobster with baked potato and coleslaw, grilled fish with lemon. It sounds pretty boring written, but the freshness combined with the perfect setting for eating this seafood done in a no frills way makes these dishes to die for.

Duryea's is BYOB- and you know this speaks to me. Technically, you are not supposed to bring wine/beer as the SLA shut them down for not having some form of a BYOB permit(????) But, they turn a blind eye as you walk the 20 feet out to your car for some "adult apple juice" or "adult grape juice." In a fun way it makes you feel like you're 18 again.

And that's it. No waiters. Plastic forks/knives/paper napkins. Basically, it's all about the lobster, that setting, and a feeling that for an hour or so you're back deck overlooks this picturesque bay while you watch the sun drop in front of you while drinking adult apple juice.

Duryeas' is up off this semi-dirt road just North of Montauk town. I don't know the street name. It was discovered quite sometime ago so I assume google searches will be pretty fruitful. What hasn't been discovered is lunch at Duryea's which is still the deal of the century as far getting in and getting out quickly while eating fantastically. They take no reservations, so dinner can sometimes be a long wait if you hit them wrong.

Oh, prices...$34 I belive for the lobster and trimmings...$10 for some mussels to start with. Not super cheap...But, you factor in the beverage cost and it's a very good deal.

So, if in Montauk. Ask a local, "How do I get to Duryea's?" Get a chilled bottle of wine and an opener- they'll give you a cup. And make sure you're there to eat at 5pm for the sun.

If you want to truly understand Burgundy...

2009-05-15T19:39:00.001-07:00

If you ever wanted to know what great Burgundy tastes like- listen to this in its entirety:

Neil Young Live at Massey Hall 1971

drink a bottle of something from Olivier Lamy or Fichet or Roulot if you do....

1985 Barca Velha

2009-05-13T18:06:00.000-07:00

Monday night I was fortunate enough to taste these...

Breuer Berg Schlossberg 1994
Egon Muller Scharzhofberger Kabinett 2001
Coche Drury Bourgogne Rouge 1997
Barca Velha 1985
Azienda Agricola Sella Lessona 1979
Oddero Barolo 1967
Gouges Nuits St George Vaucrains 1er 1993
Chevillon Nuits St George Ronciers 1er 1999
Trimbach Cuvee Frederic Emile Vendages Terdives 1990

A simply breathtaking lineup that even now leaves me speechless just writing it. All were amazing. The Germans were beautiful- tight, still tons of acid and an excellent starter.

The Coche...who knew Coche blows it out of the water in reds as well? The second greatest Bourgogne Rouge I've ever tasted (the first was the 2001 Jayer-Gilles Haute Cote de Nuits).

The Lessona...we didn't even know what Lessona was? We just knew this old very important importer had brought it in (TresBon) and it was amazing. Very Ferrando Caremma-like.

We initially thought the Oddero was slightly over the hill, but it came back to life and showed excellent once it got its legs underneath it. Very floral for such an old wine.

Both the Gouges and the Chevillon were freakin off the radar. These are what Burgundy is all about. Power. Depth. Tannin. Nuits has no Grand Crus in it primarily because Gouges helped build the Grand Cru system back in the late '30s and convinced many of his fellow growers that the system was good for all by placing no vineyards with Grand Crus status in his home town of Nuits. But, if Nuits were to have Grand Crus these (Vaucrains and Ronciers) would be up for consideration. Amazing Grand Cru level quality.

And a beautiful finish with the Freddy Emile.Again, like the Germans, still racy and incredibly young. Petrol honey everywhere........

But, the wine of the night was the '85 Barca Velha. Arguably one of the greatest red wines I have ever tasted in my life. Think Hermitage, crossed with old Tondonia from Lopez, crossed with Conterno Barolo. To try and describe it in writing would be impossible. If you can get your hands on any older Barca Velha- do so! And what a great example to prove to us all that singular age worthy wines don't always have to come from the classical regions. As it was said at the table- this Barca is deserving of being on the same table as top older Petrus, Chave Hermitage, and/or Montfortino. Simply put: a profound wine experience.

no time?

2009-04-27T19:35:00.000-07:00

I find myself with no time lately. I wake up and I'm cooking for family, cleaning, putting Little Man in clothes, fielding emails like Derek Jeter, corralling the pooch away from something she's not supposed to have her nose in, fixing, fixing, picking up, dealing, showering, shaving , and somewhere in there I find time to eat. Coffee is my personal fuel. I called my brother and remarked that a family man's finest personal time is the 5-10 minutes he spends on the John each morning- paper in hand.

And so, the other day I found myself with too much finely chopped chives. The butter was out. Hmm...Maybe an herb butter? Now, I'm not re-inventing the wheel here. Every chef on the planet uses herbed butters, but for me this was a new highlight. All of a sudden I now had instant 'good' sauce! Ta da! It was like the clouds parted and the sun shown down on my Mr Mom briliance. And so, I'm not here advocating a recipe or a pairing. I'm simply putting it forward...

If you are like me. If you have no time...Actually if you owe time...then make yourself some herbed butter. It takes half a second while you're making the normal meal...but it will make bland food taste so much better....

In Defense of Classicism

2009-04-14T03:37:00.000-07:00

I met with a family member that had recently dined at one of the top classical French restaurants in NYC. As I've never been to this restaurant- and want to go- I will leave it nameless for now. He had the tasting menu paired with wine. The menu was super classically French. Very simple, but intensely pure flavors were his description. Spice, heat, and aromatics used but in the most delicate sense.

Now this family member knows wine and he was disappointed with the wine. Sparkling Torrontes? Off beat Californians? Like him, I don't get it. I...yes 'I'...think that there is a place for the unique and weird in the world of wine, but then there are places...dining experiences...that do demand structure- especially when one is paying so much, and especially when one is eating food which is so delicately made. There is a matter of taste to be considered.

As I stroll around Long Island, visit New York, and even flip through the various foodie magazines...I am piqued by the new flippancy of food and wine pairings. I am American and I do believe in 'no rules' wine pairings. But, I also believe in the foundations of pairing structure. Just like a chef, the basics have to be mastered and many times the old adage of 'there is a reason this goes with that' applies.

For example...for ME (and I'm stressing ME because I want to be clear that this is my sole opinion) classical Italian food can only be drunk with Italian wine- preferably of the traditional style. That food culture is completely unique to that peninsula and the wines and their style have been developed over hundreds of years to match exactly with that food. In France...and with that French restaurant...the classical dishes are the same. There's a reason the Sauce Bordelaise tastes magnificent with Bordeaux. There's a reason ham steaks with a tomato cream sauce taste fantastic with Chablis...and why roast lamb matches so well with Rhones...

The opposite might be asked about the rest of the wines of the world. Great, so what do we do with California? What about Oregon Pinot Noir? What about the New Zealand Riesling? When is it classically appropriate to drink those wines?

Well, again...for ME...when those wines are being paired I look for the foods that are classically eaten around them...Californian wines- Mexican and Central American cuisine and classical American dishes. Tacos. Chile. BBQ. Hamburgers.....New Zealand Wines- Pan Asian, specically Malayasian aor Thai styled foods. Thai green curried mussels....Oregon- Alaskan Salmon in all of it's glory.

There are no rules...but there are rules. I hope that when I dine at that great French restaurant in New York they re-discover their classiscm.

Marco Pierre White

2009-04-02T18:30:00.000-07:00

I must admit that I have a bit of an obsession with people who are absolutists. You know, people who live life- who work at such intense extremes of quality- that it's everything or nothing.

In the food world, my obsession began the first time I read through Keller's French Laundry cookbook. To hear him discuss sourcing, discussing the intricate details of why even the most mundane and seemingly inconsequential tasks make the biggest difference, that level of artistry captured me.

And my latest obsession of foodie observation is the philosophy of Marco Pierre White. I was introduced to him through a client/chef whom I deeply respect: Douglas Gulijia of the Plaza Cafe in Southampton, NY. Doug showed me Marco's cookbook, if you could call it that. It's really more of a rock star's biography, really. So, I did some research. Who is this guy? What made him so controversial? Youngest guy ever to win 3 Michelin stars. Mentored Gordon Ramsey. Mario Battali worked under him. A legend in Britain. An absolute tirant in the kitchen. So, what was his story?...And I stumbled upon this Google Chef's interview.

47+ minutes long and I found myself respecting him even more. It's the absolute "Miyagi-ism" of the way he lives his life- left side or right side, in middle, squish just like grape. Like Bourdain he doesn't apologize for his bad habits or his darker side- it comes with the job. But like Keller he truly believes in food- in the reverence for it. And beneath the sex, drugs, and rock n' roll he promotes a heavy ethic of accountability. My financial obsession, Buffett, would like this guy.

It is an amazing interview...just to hear a great chef speak. I'll put eating at one of his restaurants on my bucket list...or even eating with him, which would be a double-bucket...maybe a starred bucket list item(?)...on the list. Doubt if it'll ever happen.

Regardless, the man is inspiring.

Shedding the skin

2009-03-30T02:37:00.000-07:00

We are at that point where it's time to lose the grape.

I've been representing the wines from Mosel Wine Merchants for almost a year now and the more I taste through their portfolio the more I'm convinced that what their producers make and what the American public considers as Riesling are two different things. As I've often read regarding Burgundian winemakers- they will say, I don't make Pinot Noir or Chardonnay. I make Pommard of Chassagne, etc... I think the same applies for German wine.

Sure when you taste Riesling the grape has a natural inherent sweetness. It's pretty easy to pick out. But, I ask that you make the anaology of honey. Cheap, factory processed honey tastes, well, like honey. But, go down and see your local farmer making wild honey from clover. It's honey. But, it's not honey. And more importantly, his clover honey and the next farmer's clover honey...they taste nothing alike.

Same with Burgundy. They're all Chardonnay (white) or Pinot Noir (red). Yet, every town tastes different. Every vineyard tastes different. Every producer's take on these towns/vineyards tastes different.

I was reminded of this this past week. I had dinner with a client and grabbed a '96 Lingfelder (I forget town/vineyard), and then last night had an '05 Clemens Busch Pundericher Marienburg Spatlese Fahrlay. Both gold. Both smelled of honey and petrol. Minerals and delicious baked golden apple. I'm actually writing this and thinking that this could easily be the tasting note for an older Chassagne from Boillot. See what I mean? Yes, the Germans we're both sweet, but it was really a slight vapor at their age. They weren't defined by their sweetness anymore.

So in essence, I propose that you start not calling top German wines Riesling anymore as it's really not indicative of what they taste like. Call them by their town and vineyard. In Busch's case: Pundericher Marienberg. Maybe you might be thinking- what are some of the great vineyards in the Mosel? Erdener Treppchen, Erdener Pralat, Urziger Wurzgarten, Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Graacher Domprobst, Graacher Himmelreich, Bernkasteler Doctor, Brauneberger Juffer, Piesporter Goldtropfchen...

And Unlike Burgundy and France overall, where the food is so regional and down right fantastic, Germany has not exported much of it's culinary culture. Sure, we all know the cabbage and sausage route, but a little google-work and you immediately discover that Germany is second only to France in Michelin 3 star restaurants. And a little more work after that shows that there really isn't a whole lot of difference between the great culinary foundations of Alsace and Burgundy for the Mosel and the rest of German wine growing regions. There's a hearty reliance on root vegetables- leeks, potatoes, onions, carrots...foundations of stock and butter...and proteins of fresh water fish, chicken and beef. German chefs and food writers...it's time for an exploration and exportation of this 1,000 yr old, highly developed food culture!

And then I think it's time to speak about the elepant in the room. Why not? I was selling the Mosel Wine Merchants portfolio with Dan Melia (MWM's export director) one day when a client brought up World War II and the stigma attached to all things German. I can relate a bit. I lost my grandfather in France- post D Day. But, I'm also 1/3 German by ancestry. More importantly...most importantly...is the concept of the farmer. The producers who are making these wines are very small farmers. Same as in the Loire, Burgundy growers, the Rhone, Barolo, Spain, Portugal, etc...They are attached and identify passionately with one thing: their land and the produce they farm. I have met with all of the MWM producers and they are as genuine, as humorous, as good natured as any of the French paysan vigneron. In many cases they are much more humble than many small production winemakers from other parts of the world. So, I ask you kindly to enter their wine and food with an open mind. After all, let me share a story...

In the late Spring of 2003 I went over to do a stage in Bordeaux. I was very excited. And I am who I am: a small town guy from Connecticut, who at that time was living in Hoboken NJ with his new wife selling wine to restaurants in New York City. Our country had just invaded Iraq. But, that had nothing to do with me. President Bush had nothing to do with me. The military had nothing to do with me. And American foreign policy had nothing to do with me. Even now, as I'm very happy to have voted for Obama...his work and the changes coming from his staff, they all have nothing to do with me. I'm affected by them- like the rest of the world- but I might as well be a small ant as far as my ability and want to be involved in implementing them. Yet, in going over to France in the Summer of 2003 I was socially held accountable in many social circles for the actions of Bush and my country's leadership. Little old me! I was just there to make wine and eat food? And I'd like to say that by the end of my trip I DID personally change a lot of country Frenchman's minds about who an American was and what an American thought.

So, you see my story and it's relation to the German paysan-vigneron. All they've ever had were their vineyards and their wine. All they've ever cared about were their vineyards and their wine. Toss out the elephant. Focus on the plate and glass.

Cobb

2009-03-20T20:03:00.000-07:00

Spring is here. Thank God!

This past Winter has been one of the most extraordinary I have ever seen. My wife and I recently remarked that we are living amongst legendary history in our country, and in the world as well. Fear has been dominate in our society. And the cold of Winter has emotionally fueled that fear on a day to day basis. But, with the thawing of Spring everything changes...

In with that in mind I think this Spring will be one of the most poignant in quite sometime. Already, I feel the temperature increasing. I'm aware of the sunlight at 7pm. I found huge excitement in using the outdoor grill for the first time the other night. And I find myself very excited for "Spring"dishes.

Oddly maybe, I found myself jonesing for a really well-made Cobb Salad and a fantastic glass of California Chardonnay.

Those that know me well are probably thinking that I might be on drugs or something, but no, I'm actually genuinely excited for this pairing. White Burgundy? Nope, that won't do- not powerful enough. And so , I've done a little homework on the perfect Cobb Salad and here it is below...My perfect pairing? No brainer...Varner Chardonnay Amphitheater Block 2004 if it can be found....aka- New World Chassagne Boudriotte. If not, I'll take a glass of Walter Hansel Chardonnay North Slope 2006.

Cobb Salad (based on the original recipe from the LA restaurant Brown Derby, created in 1937):

Ingredients:

Boston Lettuce
Chicory
Romaine
Watercress
sliced tomatoes
Homemade bacon bits
sliced sauteed chicken breast
sliced hard boiled eggs
sliced avocado
crumbled maytag blue cheese
finely chopped chives
dressing

Dressing:

In bowl add, small dollop of Dijon mustard, small amount of finely chopped garlic, shot of Worcestershire, sea salt, freshly ground pepper, little bit of freshly squeezed lemon juice, solid amount of red wine vinegar, and maybe a teaspoon of sugar. Whisk until blended. Let stand for a couple of minutes. Then slowly add in a little bit of vegtable oil (1/2 cup) while heavilt whisking. Add in a little bit of olive oil while heavily whicking. Whick in water if need for consistency.

Compose salad on plate. Top with dressing. And serve.

Winter can be white...

2009-02-14T09:26:00.000-08:00

I would love to ask...why does Alsace not get any love?

You know Alsace- that little strip of land between France and Germany that's been the starting point for countless wars between those two countries over the course of history. And by the way, they also make drop dead wines. Certainly Zind-Humbrecht's stuff is mind blowing, but what about Keuntz-Bas, Dirler, Boxler, and even the large house, Trimbach. And Deiss..how could I forget Deiss. There are so many great artists up there and so many I am simply forgetting to mention.

Alsace is on my mind because I came home last night and had a glass of Grenache with pizza. It was a long day- a salesman's sort of day (250+ miles on the car), and well, I found that I really wasn't satisfied. My mind/soul was searching for something Wintery...but something different than the usual blow down your door red wine.

I wanted aromatics. I wanted acid. I actually didn't want tannins and red wine, but not Burgundy, not chenin. Alsace man.

Think about it. Their cusine is wrapped around bacon, vinegar, root vegetables, and pork. And how many great chefs have come from Alsace- let's start with my man Jean-Georges for starters...

Anyway, show Alsace some love next time you're in a shop or at a restaurant. If you're on a budget, then you will very pleasantly surprised...Excellent Alsace Pinot Blanc / Pinot Gris can be had for $15bt in a shop and/or $35-$40bt on a wine list. And if you plop down another $5 (basically pass on your daily Starbucks concoction) then you can pony up for Zind Humbrecht Rielsing or Pinot Gris for $21-$23bt ($55bt there-on-abouts on a list).

Open your minds friends. Winter can be white...and taste better, cheaper.

The Onion Correction...?

2009-02-05T19:24:00.000-08:00

Times are tough and it brings you home.

I had the most wonderfull conversation with a seasoned chef in January. We talked about the difficulties of the restaurant business- the lack of customers, even regulars being irregular. And I remarked to him that in these times the true chefs come through. It hasn't about how well one can work with fois gras and truffles, it's about what can you do with an onion, with eggs, with root vegetables.

As the winter descends upon me and things become grim I find myself wondering two things:

1. When is what I know as normalcy going to return?

2. Is this really an opportunity?

Is it? Is this the period in my generation where life will make us re-learn how to live around the table. Where maybe this Summer gardening might be a little more important than just a fun hobbie...Where maybe it might be a good idea to start visiting the local farmer to take him up on those placard signs reading, "Farm Fresh Eggs"?

I think it is. Tonight is Thursday, the 5th. Saturday the 7th is my birthday. And I'm going to be cooking for my wife and son on my birthday because that's what I like to do. I found myself looking at two cookbooks for inspiration tonight. The French Laundry Cookbook, and an old book from my wife's grandfather, Pierre Franey. I respect everything that is the Laundry. The pursuit of perfection...how can you not? It is art, really, at that level. And in good times I'd probably try my hand at a couple recipes...maybe pop some high end Burgundy.

But I'm back to my old friend. Eggs. Onions. Root vegetables. Slow cooking. Reductions...Simple cooking...Good thing I know is that even the great restaurants, the haute cusine...it all started with these ingredients as well!

Maybe in the end this recession is more than a financial correction. A cultural correction? A return to a simpler and better time?

The real deal on the whole 2007 So. CDR thing

2009-01-19T04:40:00.000-08:00

OK, so I've now tasted half a dozen super star 2007 Cotes du Rhones. 2007 has been widely reported as one of the greatest vintages for that region in quite sometime. Parker, a Southern Rhone fanatic decreed it the best vintage he had tasted in that region in his 30 years- no slouch comment considering he spends a lot of time and effort there.

For me, I went in thinking, "well..the guy does worhsip Chateauneuf du Pape, so he respects the region, the terroir, and its producers...It probably is that good.."

It is that good.

But, some understanding is needed. The best wines are yet to come (they're all still in barrel or tank and should come this Summer). The second best wines- the top Cotes du Rhone Villages (Cairannes, Rasteaus, super second wines from the best Chateauneuf producers) have come. They are dense, compacted and complex. In short, I think most people (myself included) dived into these wines expecting to blown away by a voluptuous and over-the-topness of fruit. Sorry, that's not the deal here. These wines are so complex and dense that they're not ready. They almost drink black. They are early March buds folks.

It reminds of a producer I represent named Monetpeloso. When the 2006 Montepelosos came in this past Fall (2006 coastal Tuscany- another legendary vintage/region) I pulled a bottle of their Eneo...the entry level Super Tuscan. I remember it being absolutely black- like dark, dense, hard, angular, etc...It opened a little on Day 3!!!!!!! But, that Eneo has started to flower now and the wine is showing it's pedigree.

So, back to the 2007 Southern Rhone. These wines are that good, but they are masterfull flowers that are still in very tight buds. By the way, if just the good Cotes du Rhones are in this state, then expect the Chateaneufs and such to be wrapped liked mummies this Summer. What is drinking wonderfully right now are the entry level house Cotes du Rhones, and economically these wines couldn't come at a better time. I'm talking basic $10-$15 Cotes du Rhones. Buy at will..cause you'll be getting twice your money's worth.

As far as the rest...well, it's great to see a region of producers that's still building wines directly from the vineyard for the cellar- the way great wines ought to be built. So, when they come...and even those $25 Cotes du Rhones Villages that are here now...pick up some bottles and forget about them for a year plus...You will be handsomely rewarded.

Are they graduating?

2009-01-12T20:27:00.000-08:00

What an interesting comment I heard from one of my top clients last week...

We started talking about the wine regions most of his clientele were drinking. A couple of years ago I remember him having a huge Marquis Philips, big spoofulated, Shiraz crowd. "What happened to that business?", I asked.

"They've moved to Southern France. The Languedoc. They want village wines from there."

Yes, if 2008 couldn't get more bizarre. But, now that I'm thinking about it this was actually my own path. The first great great wine I ever remember tasting was the 1998 Dead Arm Shiraz by D'Arenberg. Freaking huge ass wine. Walloped me over the forehead and I loved it for that. I remember staying in Australia for quite some time continuing to love the fruit bombs and the 'smoothness' of the wines.

Then I remember tasting a Faugeres. Then a Fitou. A Corbieres. There was a similar darkness in the wines. A raisination. Prunes. They had all of that over the top fruit, but it just wasn't fake. It was natural...like a child discovering that candy is too much, but dried fruit can deliver a similar sweetness, but without the nasty back-of-your-mouth sugar thing.

Where did I go from the Languedoc (which I still love)? Well...New World Spain. Than Southern Italy. Than Central Italy. Than Bordeaux. Than Burgundy. Once you're in Burgundy, it's over.

However, you can never truly get to Burgundy directly- you can never really appreciate it by starting there...You have to go all the way through the rest of those... So, maybe there's hope for the masses yet!

2008 Wine of the Year

2008-12-30T05:05:00.000-08:00

It's that time right? Wine of the Year time. Writers post their thoughts on the best wines they've tasted that past year and then hoards of people go out and search and buy these same wines with the expectation that they will also have Wine of the Year type experiences. And there in lies a fundamental problem between the current system of wine critiquing and the way great wine is actually experienced.

My Wine of the Year?

'59 Domaine de la Romanee Conti Richebourg Grand Cru....The wine was profound in a deeply emotional way. Tasting notes are simply an insult to it. I was given a glass at my Uncle in Law's bachelor party wine bacchanal and we were all sitting around this large old teak dinner table outside. We were at my uncle's old friend's house which happens to be situated right on a marina. It was about 10:00pm and the temperature was just cold enough to demand a sweatshirt. That night also saw bottles of Raveneau, Niellon, Trapet, Gaunoux...and multiple bottles of Grand Crus. And to raise the bar, we also tasted the 1969 Richebourg as well. But my lasting memory of that '59, and drinking that '59, was 8 guys huddled around this table...an indescribable wine in our glasses...an outside temperature that was just cold enough to have us all cupping our glasses with both hands to keep the fragile wine from getting too cold...and total silence for about 5 minutes...It was if we had all simultaneously gone to wine church.

I'm racking my brain and it's leading me through this journey of additional great wine experiences this past year...Roumier Clos de Bussiere at that same uncle in law's wedding. My first taste of older Clemens Busch at the office. Drinking old Barolo (a bevy of) at the Outpost estate on Howell Mountain. Dining alone and loving it at Bar Boulud while drinking this old crazy Savoie rouge from Rosenthal's portfolio....All lots of fun and very good times...but it was that one moment with the '59 that takes the cake.

And my larger point is...if you were to get that '59 Richebourg and take it home...and drink it...I almost guarantee you won't have the same experience I did. The Table and the experience of the table makes the food...makes the wine. All things need to be excellent, but the magic comes only when all things are excellent and there is that one moment that is shared amongst like minds. There is no critique for that...For me, I went to wine church on a cold Summer's evening over a bottle of '59 in 2008. That worked for me.

Syrah....why?

2008-12-16T04:43:00.000-08:00

Oddly enough...despite all of my ranting and raving about Euro-focused, traditional wines and that overall style..my Americana kicks in now and then I find myself jonesing for some really well made Californian Syrah. Yes, those who know me well are shaking their heads. You gotta be kidding me? Nope- Cali Syrah. Ojai. Copain. Edmunds St John. Really crunchy, chewy, black pepper laced, dirt stuffed, blackberry jammed, old fashioned fruit forward Cali C-Rah...

And it only comes when I'm also absolutely jonesing for some Americana home cooking. Real deal American hamburgers. You know. The burger that's 3 inches high with a tomato slice that's almost 1/2 an inch thick. And red onion- a requirement....or....A fantastic well made Chili. Last night was chili. Well made. No Syrah. A very good house Negroamaro...very chewy, earthy, and crunchy...so I was happy. Still, I wanted a Syrah.

I bring this up as I truly believe that we Americans don't understand Syrah. What do you do with it. The answer is eat it with American food. American Syrah is big and bold. Forward and hugely flavorful. Sounds like our food, no?

So, next time your jonesing for a great burger, chili, Tex-Mex, braised shortribs, BBQ, etc....Go pop a bottle of Syrah from the West Coast. A knew discovery awaits. I guarantee it.

Daydreams of far off European Mountain meals

2008-12-08T20:01:00.000-08:00

I totally believe in a direct correlation between a place, its food, and its wine...and the feeling you can get from just thinking about those things together.

For instance, just the other day I was flipping through my iPod and came upon a couple tracks from Pavarotti. It was about 4pm on a Sunday and my mind almost immediately was transported to Tuscany, to fresh pasta with ham and tomato cream sauce...and a beautiful bottle of Chianti...

That said, same goes for the New World as well. Napa makes sense in Napa. It's a grandiose place. The food is perfect, fresh, and almost constructed like every dish was designed to be in a Food and Wine Magazine pictorial. The wines drink the same way. Perfection of fruit is a place that many Napa vintners seem interested in growing. Sometimes...usually in very grandiose places, with grandiose dishes...steakhouses, for example...Napa wines make sense to me.

Right now, for me though...I like the backwoods. Right now it's cold where I live- very cold. My mind often shifts to daydreams of entering a small tavern in Europe just before dark. A hearty stew over noodles in a small service iron kettle. Chunks of warm peasant bread. Mountain cheeses. And a bottle of red wine to match...

Reduction

2008-11-26T19:16:00.000-08:00

The more and more I study cooking technique and theory, the more I find myself understanding that great really soulfull food comes from a slow steady reduction. Pierre Franey's recipes are based on it. Marcella Hazan's recipes are based on it. Keller's recipes are based on it.

The other night I prepared a simple roasted chicken. I roasted the chicken, and upon done-ness, took the chicken out of the pan, poured off a decent amount of the fat, added some white wine, and then reduced everything until I had a small amount of liquid left. The recution took almost 10 minutes. I swirled in some butter. Carved the chicken and served with rice.

Wifey licked the plate clean- literally- and declared it one of the most magnificent meals she had ever had.

Little Man...usually averse to chicken...cried for thirds!!!

Wow! 2 for 2. I studied my success. I didn't stuff anything in the chicken. Didn't add any stock to the pan while roasting- nor did I add any onions in the pan. And I didn't even baste the bird while cooking. Just a slow dry roast until finished. And then that sauce.

Lesson learned:

Reduction folks. When in doubt- reduce and you will create flavor.

Bird Day

2008-11-20T20:19:00.000-08:00

It's very trendy to recommend fruity wines with the whole Thanksgiving thing. Zinfandel for reds. Riesling for whites. Sure, they work...

But, I would advise a different course for something deeper- earth. The food we eat on Thanksgiving is food from the Earth. Potatoes. Mushrooms. Celery. Bread. Cranberries. Turkey and reduced meat gravvy. Sure you could toss in sweet potatoes, but even these are Earthy food. So, I advocate a match.

For reds, drink Burgundy- specifically wines from the Cote de Nuits. If on a budget drink Haut Cote de Nuits or Marsannay. Of course, great Bourgogne Rouge is always advised. Or, drink really kick ass Cru Beaujolais- La Pierre Morgon, Roilette Fleurie, Michaud Brouilly are all advised. Or, Loire reds. Joguet, Olga Raffault and Baudry Chinons, or Breton Bourgeuils.

For whites- white Burgundy. Specifically- Chablis. Raveneau if you got and can afford it. If not- older Pinson, Fevre, Dauvissant, or Picq. Or, Thevenet....older Thevenet. That said, don' turn down Cote d'Or whites if you can get 'em or can afford them as well....

As you can see I'm steering you into France. Italy's no slouch as well...but more on he red side than white.

Barbera.....specifically...Giacomo Conterno, Mascarello, and/or Trinchero. I'm also a fan of Clerico's Ciabot bottling.

Weight Watchers?

2008-11-03T18:04:00.000-08:00

My wife has dragged me back into one of those "we need to lose 15lbs" moments. I'm complaining, but not really. I have been feeling a little sluggish lately and the lure of luxurious food is not as compelling as before because of my heft- so to speak. So, why not?

So, she's joined Weight Watchers, and of course therefore so have I- not by choice, mind you. Now, I've done the Miami Beach Diet. As you've read, I've done an Ayurvedic Cleanse, and now here I am studying the Weight Watchers program.

Greatly reduced portions.

Hugely reduced Carbs.

Hugely reduced fatty proteins.

Massive amounts of veggies and heavy water based fruits (ie- apples).

And wherever possible, buy low fat. And wherever possible, they're recommending that you buy the Weight Watchers brand. Hmmm?

Whatever. The important thing for me (as I know this much- each person's metabolism and body configuration is wildly different), is exercise, heavy veggies, low low sugar, and small portions of everything else. And the one thing Weight Watchers also asks you to do is zero vino....

So, I'm going to do this Weight Watchers thing with my wife- for my wife. But, honestly, I know my body. Run. Eat your veggies- lots of 'em. Tiny portions on everything else. Sugar is your enemy. And watch your snacking. I do this, I bet I lose 10lbs in 2 weeks.

We'll see.

The olive recipe

2008-10-24T10:16:00.000-07:00

Do you love olives?

I love olives.

There used to be a great restaurant on the West side of mid-town Manhattan- La Locanda- and when you sat down Pep,e 'the proprietor', would bring you a marinated small plate of black olives and lentils. I could eat just that dish for the rest of my life.

What I now know, but never saw, was the intense marinade that those simple olives and lentils under went in order to bring them to that higher place. So, now I'm going to pass on what I consider to be one of the great antipasto dishes of all time...

Buy some olives that you like...maybe some big green Sicilians, some Kalamatas, some Nicoise, etc...

Rinse them thoroughly with water to get as much of the salt and vinegar out.

Put them in a large bowl.

Take 5-8 large garlic cloves. Crush them and peel the skin off. Put them in the same bowl.

Crack some large pepper chunks into the bowl. Sea salt into the bowl as well.

If you want, maybe add some lemon peel to the bowl.

Throw in some earthy aromatic herbs like thyme, sage, rosemary into the bowl. If you only have dried- so be it.

Add like a little tiny dollop of cumin to the bowl. This is important! Don't forget the cumin- a little more is safer than a little less.

Get some decent olive oil and almost cover all the ingredients.

Mix well.

Let stand for a day.

You now have one of the best dipping olive oils on the planet. And the olives are delicious as well...

In an ideal world, go to a good wine shop and buy a nice $14.99 bottle of Friulian Tocai of get Bisol Prosecco. If they're trying to sell you on something they recommend that's a couple of dollars more...go for it. You only live once.

Sante!

Alfredo

2008-10-14T19:23:00.000-07:00

Cheap and easy I say...(and the kid will scarf it down)...

Cook some pasta (rigatoni if you got it).

In a separate large casserole dish, melt some butter (a good amount) and cream and milk together. Salt and pepper. Don't boil but make sure the butter is melted and the mixture is integrated. Add pasta. Stir to coat. Cook together for like 5 minutes. Add a cup of finely grated Parmesan cheese, a teeny dash of nutmeg, and a little more milk (if needed). Finely chop up some parsley and add it.

Serve. I all but guarantee that your spouse and your child will scarf this down.

Recommended wines:

Italian Barbera d'Alba or Barbera d'Asti. Aglianico from outside of Naples, or Lagrein from the Alto Adige. Whatever it is...make sure you're drinking something Italian with this and that it's red and big.

A Rule

2008-10-05T03:27:00.000-07:00

It's never been a better time to be a wine consumer. Right now you will start to see deals like you've never seen before. You'll walk in to shops and see some wines advertised at 50% off. You'll enter restaurants on off nights and maybe see the same too (for the winelist)!? But, this doesn't mean buy away and expect the wine to taste the way you want it. Case in point...

I am a lover of Cornas. Cornas is a brash little village in the Southern section of the Northern Rhone that produces only Syrah grown on hillsides of granite. When young, the wines are rugged, tough, and intensely minerally. And yet the wines age for a few years and you receive grace but with interesting nooks so to speak. So here I am in a wine shop and there is a Cornas formally $56bt, now being marked down to $20bt. WOW! Yes, head turning. I turned the label around to check the quality of the importer: Weygandt-Metzler, an excellent importer. 1999- an excellent year in the Northern Rhone. OK, what the heck and bought two. I didn't know the wine, but I knew that Weygandt's wines usually had a dark earthy mid-core, the vintage was fantastic, and it was from a village I loved.

Well, turns out the wine was what I would call a Parker wine- big fruit and lots of oak- almost Californian when young. It was interesting, and I find myself muscling threw the first bottle. It's just too much. Too much caramel and coffee from the oak. Too much gloppiness from the over extraction. Too much. And there troubles the style of the high flying 90+pt styled wines- great to taste, bad to drink. Now, the wine's not horrible and I'm thrifty so I'm going back to this bottle trying to find some light, but I wouldn't have pulled it had I known it was a "Parker" style.

And therein lies my point. If you are knew to the wine game- cellaring wines or buying older wines. Against what may seem to be safe judgment throw your vintage charts away, don't look at your ratings when you buy wine, and definitely, definitely know the great classical producers in the regions you are buying. If the wine I bought was a Clape, Allemande, Michel, or Paris I would have been in good hands (and I would have bought a case at that price..'cause that price doesn't exist with those wines). I would have tasted the fruit taken to another place with age- and not the plastic surgery that was done during birth to help win a tasting and sell more wine.

I'm hopeful for my last bottle of this Cornas. I'm going to simply forget about it and hopefully it will evolve past it's medical woes and spring a new life (with wine you never know?). But, I will always buy with my new rule in mind: If cellaring or buying older wine- buy the traditionalists.

Lobsta!

2008-09-28T17:11:00.000-07:00

A little hint...go to the best fish shop you know off and ask them if they have any cooked lobster shells. I've found that if you do, you will often find that the shop hasn't even thought about a market for them and thus will sell them to you for under $5 a pound!

Then, go and get a kick butt recipe for lobster bisque and make it with the shells. See- luxury can still exist in challenging times- you just have to think outside of the box.

I was given some lobsters (thank you Noelle!) and enjoyed a weekend of lobster. Saturday night was classic steamed lobster with beer and butter. Tonight was lobster bisque. Wifey was very happy.

And even wifey added that the bottle of Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 2006 was unbelievable with the bisque! "F-G" is a grower I respresent. They are excellent and make fantastic wines. If you can't find them (or for some ood reason don't like the wines), make sure you source good, "grower" Chassagne or top grower white Burgundy.

Of note: the recipe came from Ed Brown's The Modern Seafood Cookbook.

Building the cellar

2008-09-23T03:53:00.000-07:00

I am a fan of reading the old timer's chronicles about life in the wine business. Kermit. Rosenthal. Both have written great books about the way it was back then. The availability and pricing way back then of some of the wines that we now covet is astounding. But, more importantly is reading about that sense of discovery- it's like wine treasure hunting.

I went down into my cellar last night to grab a bottle of Bourgogne Rouge for dinner, and my mind turned to investment. Where does one invest now if you want to buy these treasures before they are discovered (ie, priced out of reach)?

Here's where I'm headed...

Loire Cabernet Franc...The best single vineyard Chinons and Bourgeuils are like $50bt retail- the best of them. Even with the currency situation, these wines are still screaming deals relative to their Right Bank Bordeaux cousins. I'm sticking to the classics: Joguet, Baudry, Breton, and Clos Roche Blanche.

Loire whites...I should write that I am actively buying white Burgundy (and red), but I'm picking and chosing my battles there. It is a place I simply can't afford overall. But, like the reds above, I can afford white Loires. The best Chenins (minus Joly's wines) are still incredibly underpriced and equally as impressive as great white Burgs. I like Closel, Pepiere, Cotat, Chidaine, and Huet.

Cornas...I think it's always been the super sleeper in the Rhone. Everyone knows of Auguste Clape and his work, and those wines are amazing. Many say Thierry Allemand is truly the guy down in Cornas. I like both, but can't afford both. Currently I'm a huge fan of Paris. I do represent him, but I love the purity in the tannins, and the guy can bring out rock in a wine like no one's business.

Chablis...There might be no better value on the planet except for Chablis. Vieilles Vignes bottlings and Premier Crus are some of best deals out there. I bought wine from 2006 for my son, and I plan on buying more as I go. You just drink in the value- and the wines only get better with time.

Single Vineyard Barbera...With all the hype about 2004, I feel like I'm on the sidelines in Piedmont this year. No cashola for the vinos. Maybe some Produttori de Barbarescos? But, single vineyard Barberas...There's value there I tell you. And if you're patient and let them age...they drink as good, if not better, than most Barolo.

Chianti...I love Chianti. I think to love it you have to be patient enough to let it age and take on that golden hue. With some time the wine starts to show rounder, softer notes and the nose explodes with all types of other things. Huge fan of Felsina, Cacchiano, and Monsanto.

Germany....2007, the year of Germany. Not to say the past couple of years should be skipped. The best producers make great wine in every year. And I plan on buying Von Volxem, Busch, Knebel, Donnehoff, Christoffel, Prum, and a number of others in this country.

Bandol...Kermit won me with Tempier. I love the wines. I hate the prices, but I bite for a couple of bottles here and there. Pradeaux peeks my interest. And I'm still looking for my next great Tempier-like producer. Maybe here is where the new treasure hunt begins?

Sloppiness

2008-09-21T20:22:00.000-07:00

Sometimes simplicity is best.

Cheap takeout pizza.

Paper plates.

Grease all over the table and eating handfulls of cheese that have fallen off the front corners of slices.

Paper towels everywhere.

And a bottle of 3 day old F Rinaldi Dolcetto Roussot 2007.

Was freakin delicious.

Fortune Teller?

2008-09-15T19:15:00.000-07:00

Lehman Bros crashes and burns.

Merrill gets swooped up for a paultry $50Bil.

And Amazon.com enters the wine retail biz.

There's a lot happening in the world right now. I don't necessarily think the sky is falling. I think things are shaking out; things are settling- righting themselves, if you will. And here's what I foresee in the wine business...

Very much like the hardware store business, the future of the wine shop will be divided into 2 categories- the super store, and the small custom boutique. Retail shops will either evolve into one or the other, or will get bought out, or will eventually get culled out of the market.

The super shops- the Costcos, Total Wines, Amazon.coms of the world will treat wine like a product, a commodity, in which it will purely be about price and what they will advertise as an infinite amount of availability. This will serve a purpose. For those looking for the major national brands- the Gallos, the Kendall-Jacksons, the Rodney-Strongs. This will now be your best option at the lowest price. And for imports, this business will include Ruffino, Yellow Tail, Jadot, DuBeouf, Lafite, and by the way...all the classified growths of Bordeaux..plus all the major Champagne houses. All gone to the lowest bidder online at these super stores.

Let me be upfront. As much as these brands, these wines, are important in the business of buying and selling wines..I'm not interested in them. Been there, done that. Not fun.

The rest of the wine made in the world- the little projects that are (hopefully) slaved over by artisans and wine companies that truly care about their product will find homes in these large shops as well. Some anyway. And those that do- will (for the most part) get lost in these shops and sit on shelves. (By the way, this will represent a hugely strategic buying opportunity for consumers that know their stuff and can find really good wines at great closeout prices because the super stores don't have the marketing to push these wines through). But, getting back to task, the rest of all of these little wine projects will be sold by equally truly passionate people in small family run shops. Just like it's always been done. And here- I foresee the need for these shops to specialize in an area of wine in order to stand out and define themselves as destination wine shops. For example, a shop that sells all, but specializes in the small production wines of Northern California, or Barolo, or Burgundy, or Tuscany. You get my point.

All in all, the two will co-exist with one simply not ever able to do the other's job and its own. The definer will be service and marketing. And that will be the future of the business of wine.

Maybe, I'll be proven wrong. But, this is what I forsee...

In search of bluefish

2008-09-13T20:20:00.000-07:00

When you look at the grandeur and the beauty that is the classic French bistro, and you look behind the curtain, you discover the the majesty is all in making something magnificent out of nothing. The French bistro is created out of the use of the egg and the pig because they are the cheapest.

Last night my family had a bluefish cook off. One was cooked en papillote with garden grown peppers. The other dish was baked bluefish with herbs and rosemary potatoes. The fish was caught that day, and it was magnificent. A family member leaned over and said, "You never see this stuff out here." She was right, and it's sad. And so I propose that the restaurants of Long Island start putting bluefish on the menus. Grill it with rosemary. Roast it with sage and tomatoes. Serve it en papillote with heirloom peppers. Take a magnificent raw material and make it grand.

It is cheap. It is indigenous. It is fresh. And is defining of the food that should come from this place.

Just a thought...

Upstate Report Card

2008-09-08T19:38:00.000-07:00

I just returned from a week of vacation in upstate New York. Absolutely beautiful place- specifically Lake George which if you're a fan of Caribbean quality swimming water- then you should head there.

I want to highlight two really wonderful establishments if you happen to make you're way up to Northern New York. First is Davidson's Brew Pub in Glens Falls (a small city at the base of the Adirondacks). At first you may walk up and not think much of this local pub. A burger joint that makes a couple of beers. But, trust me- order the sampler. I never got the front of the house guy's name but he made it very clear that these people are deeply passionate about beer. Their smoked Porter was simply twisted. I know, I know...but I just get all giddy when I see passionate craftsmanship like this.

The second place is the Mirror Lake Inn off Mirror Lake in Lake Placid. Solid wine program, but top notch food all around. Moreover they just care. The whole 'estate' was well done, and more importantly it left a lasting impression because although they were an upper tier hotel/spa/restaurant, their price ($275 night+breakfast) was a super value in comparison to the quality and the quality/price against the peer establishments at this level ($500+ night).

Here's where I want to give a big 'thank you' to the folks at home on the South Fork of Long Island, and I also want to question the North Country folks up in upstate NY. Making great food is all about caring. Taking the time to do the little things. Taking the time to make your own stocks and pastas, to source local produce and food goods, and think seasonally regarding your menus. And serving great wine takes zero work at all. It's simply picking the right suppliers, doing a little reading, and trusting those suppliers to send you really great juice. Overall, the North Country gets a 'B' for food, and gets a 'C to C-' for vino.

Hey maybe I went to wrong restaurants, maybe I went to the wrong shops, but pound for pound when you go out to eat (or walk into a shop inthe South Fork) you just eat and drink better. So, thank you- South Fork. And North Country NY, some wine distributors that will instantaneously make your wine programs better:

Rosenthal
Polaner (note: my own company)
Skurnik
Vias
Chadderdon
Pas Mal
Winebow (Kermit Lynch)

Patience please

2008-08-27T03:05:00.000-07:00

Be patient with wine. I found myself with three bottles of Pinot Noir last weekend: Hansel Pinot Noir South Slope 2005, Copain Pinot Noir Hacienda Seccoya 2006, and a Varner Pinot Noir Hidden Block 2005. These wines couldn't have been more different. The Hansel was INITIALLY picture perfect Russian River Pinot Noir- just a bursting supple red cherry fruit. It turned heads. The Copain was the dark horse- earthy, almost wild and rustic in it's portrayal of the grape, and the Varner INITIALLY was very light in color, very aromatic and fresh, almost liquid like tannins, etc... Initially I think one would think the Hansel was the best of the three, with Copain, and then the Varner coming out the end. But be patient.

The Hansel didn't get worse over three days, but it faded as it was ought to do. The Copain opened and gained even more power, more tannin, and more dark depth. And the Varner exploded. It was the wine I truly enjoyed drinking, and I made a mental note for myself to start cellaring Varner.

My point is that great wine takes time- not just cellaring time- but time on the table, time going back to it during the week. I can't tell you how many wines I've pulled and been, frankly, unimpressed on day one only to see them magically explode with fantastic quality on day 2, 3, or even 4. Usually (and I say usually), this is the case with the old school wines. It is almost always the case with young Burgundy. I recently bought a couple bottles of a new producer I'm eagerly tracking- Pierre Boisson. His Bourgogne Rouge is awesome, and I have to imagine it is basically coming from his vines in Pommard (the resemblance is too there), and anyway I brought this out to a beach cookout for my wife, sister-in-law, and mother-in-law. The wine was popped and I immediately tasted that the fruit that I knew was there, but hidden deep in the wine. Still, I enjoyed the fresh quality of it. The acid. The tart cherry fruit. I was on the beach, and the wine for me at this moment acted more like a white wine in this profile.

My wife and sister-in-law flat out didn't get it. They tasted only tartness and acid. I knew exactly why. A month before my wife had raved about the same wine- after it had been open for an entire day. Burgundy (and Pinot Noir for that matter) that are made in a traditional (non-spoofulated style) need love. They need air and oxidation when they are young (over time, with cellaring, they receive this and it's actually a no-no to decant older Burgundy lest the wine breaks due to too much air). I see this as the major failing of Burgundy and it's marketers- not truly educating consumers in aeration- and also in not serving the wines at proper temperature (as Burgundy needs a chill).

But, it all goes back to my point- be patient at the table. The flashy wine that's initially poured almost always fades. And almost always, it is the tart, acidic monster that's poured initially that swans and flowers into the wine everyone is raving about by the end of the meal (or sometimes by the end of the week).

The 50 States of COTT

2008-08-18T18:54:00.000-07:00

Yes, I know...my apologies. It's been too long. Frankly, up until this evening nothing has really struck me. My meals have been simple grilled meats and fresh vegetables drizzled with olive oil. The wines have been left over samples- good wines, excellent wines, but I haven't had an ear shattering COTT moment, so I figured I'd wait and right when I had something to say. And now I do...

One of the great legacies my wife's grandfather left was a PBS series (and cookbook) entitled Pierre Franey Cooks with his Friends. It's an excellent work. It combines Thomas Keller like photography and philosophy with Marcella Hazan-like down home cooking. And there's the larger themes- the exploration of French individual appelation cultures which always grabbed me. It's personal. And I personally like when authors open up and share their lives with me; it brings me in that much more.

I know many chefs visit this blog here and there, so for those of you who appear on TV, or plan on appearing on TV- I'd love to see a similar series but with American restaurants and American chefs. That's 50 potential episodes. Imagine the unique content! Surely someone's doing something interesting in South Dakota.

Restaurants I'd love to see (that is if you do decide to shoot it):

French Laundry
Montagna
Per Se
Balthazar
Pluckmann Inn
Alan Wong
Alenia
Charlie Trotter's
Le Bec Fin
The Corn Exchange (in South Dakota)
Alain Ducasse
Daniel
Cru
Del Posto
The Modern
Ko
Le Bernardin
etc...
etc..
...and of course a nice stable of my own restaurant clients out here on Long Island...

It's time. America has the culture, the personalities, the truly regional foods- there's countless stories to be told. We need a program to truly bring American food to the masses in an honest way comme Pierre.

HAN(d) me the "SOLO"

2008-08-10T19:29:00.000-07:00

Medici Ermete Le Tenute "Solo" Reggiano 2007....$15-$18bt

Google it and buy a bottle. Chill it until it is cold, and drink with pizza. It is a dark red wine from the appelation of Reggiano (Parma-Reggiano cheese, etc...). It is frizzante- meaning it is slightly sparkling, and it has a small amount of residual sugar in it.

My wife hated it. "Agh, this tastes like grape soda!"

I love it. It is totally distinctive and unique. It really does kinda taste like grape soda- wine soda, maybe? But the slightly sweet dark fruit with the sparkling body marries fantastically with salt- salt you find in pizza dough, and salt you find in pamesan-reggiano cheese....wink, wink...

Old rule...if they grow (or are made) together, eat them together....Applies here.

60 degrees please

2008-08-06T15:41:00.000-07:00

As many of you may or may not know, I'm all about traditional Beaujolais. Think Kermit's orginal "Gang of Four": LaPierre, Thevaunet, Foillard, and Breton. Now add to that Descombes, Desvignes, Michaud, Roilette, Tete, Trenel, and Brun. There are others, but these are my type of wines. They are wines- not cocktails- and they drink like beautiful earthy floral reds, not jammy banana juice. Enjoyment in them for me also brings up a good point. Temperature.

Wine, for the most part, is served entirely too warm. In just about every cave I've ever been in (and this includes the caves in Napa in July!) it is just about freezing. You are cold. You're lips chatter. You hug yourself while you taste and take notes. Wine likes this environment and wine tastes better in this environment as well.

If you read old Kermit offerings you will often see him refer to dinners at the Peyraud's in the Summer. Imagine that- Southern Provence in July. That's hot. And he would wax poetic about taking a couple bottles of the just finished Tempier vintage and "plunging" them into a bucket of ice. I often think about that. Tempier is the pinnacle of Mourvedre- one of the most hearty, masculine grapes found anywhere in the world and here is a guy making it colder; making it drink even more tannic!

The oddity is that the cold adds a freshness that young masculine reds love. Earthy reds love it as well. And additionally, it is my opinion that the true reason America doesn't understand Burgundy and/or the Loire is that the reds are not drunk at their proper temperature- which is to say 56 degrees (or only 24 degrees above freezing).

So, do this. Go buy a red. Something earthy. Something French. If you want to perfect the test, go buy a very good Cru Beaujolais (not from Dubeouf or Jadot!), open it, and plunge it into a bucket of ice water for 15 minutes. Play with the temperature. There is no right or wrong and remember that each bottle is different- as is always. But, it will bring some of the most new insight into your wine enjoyment; it certainly has for me.

The Importance of Wine Rediscovery

2008-07-27T13:52:00.000-07:00

In my practice I see this all of the time. A great producer will come along. They will be discovered by the trade. Then they will be discovered by the consumer base. Demand will drive prices up and and availability out, and from a marketing standpoint, "cult" status is born. If the quality of the wines the producer makes continues to be at a "reference point" level for about 10 years or more this producer will be generally be deemed a classic, reference point producer and at their price points are not important anymore.

I've dealt with this phenomenon for 7 years now as a wine professional, and only yesterday did it hit me personally. I love wine and love to drink it. I usually buy through my company as I love the producers and I get a great deal. But, there are some wines I simply have to have. Domaine Tempier is one of them. I had read a lot about Tempier's rose since I really got into the Kermit thing about 3 years ago, but up until yesterday I could never readily find the Rose. So, it's available yesterday and I buy it- just 1 bottle. It retailed at $42bt.

Now, that's fair. It should be that price considering who makes it and the current currency situation. And I will continue to buy a bottle here, bottle there, but unfortunately for me Tempier Rose has moved out of my strikezone. So, Tempier here and there, but not always.

So, it's time to move on and keep looking- which is part of the fun of wine anyway. Pradeaux is a new "it" wine for me from Bandol. They're not new as a super quality level producer from Bandol, but they're just being very highlighted now as Tempier's prices have risen heavily.

C'est la vie. The next time your favorite imported European wine looks to expensive- it's time to enjoy the process of discovery all over again.

Great white

2008-07-26T02:46:00.000-07:00

I'd like to turn your attention to the white wines of the Southern Rhone in France. Quintessential Summer values in my opinion. Sure we can talk about Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc, but let's not. The super value exists in the excellent Cotes du Rhone Blancs, the Cairanne Blancs, Rasteau Blancs, Lirac Blancs, etc...Here you typically see blends of Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier, Bouboulenc, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, and/or Clairette. Sometimes a producer tosses additional grapes like Picpoul. The wines (for me) always sing with this white peach and apricot- usually in a dried form. And there's usually a slight peraffin or waxy note that is there; not always, but typically. Under all of this, you usually sees a really strong minerality as well- if the wines are well made.

These wines are fantastic for Summer, specifically with one of my favorite Summer dishes: ratatouille. I'm still using canned tomatoes, but in two weeks my perfect ratatouille will be ready. I eat it hot or cold, but prefer cold with lots of chopped fresh basil in it. And I like it accompanied by a simple piece of herbed sauteed flounder or bass, a good hunk of baguette for mopping.

Some producers to note in value white Southern Rhones:

Janasse Cotes du Rhone
Oratoire St Martin Cairanne Reserve des Seigneurs Blanc
Lafond Lirac Blanc
Trignon Sablet Blanc
Beaucastel Coudoulet de Beaucastel Cotes du Rhones Blanc
Remejeanne Cotes du Rhones Blanc Les Arbousiers
Sainte Cosme Cotes du Rhone Blanc

An short appeal: Oregano

2008-07-24T10:10:00.000-07:00

Just a quick comment- use orgeano (fresh if you can). What a great herb. It screams Mediterranean. Almost immediately you think tomatoes, olive oil, light chesses, flat breads, saffron, grains like couscous, etc...You think white houses against a bright blue sea. And you are away in Greece.

And in wine it defines the reason that many of the Italian and Grecian whites are of the light, dry, and crisp category. Santorini, Fiano, Falanghina...they all want oregano.

Just a thought- but make sure to incorporate more oregano into your meals- you will travel to the Mediterranean very fast if you do.

Sticky food

2008-07-21T17:38:00.000-07:00

It's hot. Sticky hot. New Orleans hot. Like want to drink Mint Juleps hot and talk slow hot.

So, for the heat- a very cooling salad:

Cut up a bunch of watermelon. Slice up some strawberries. Pick a bunch of fresh mint. Add all to a bowl. Add coarse salt and white pepper. Add a couple of glugs of really good olive oil and a medium sized dash of excellent balsamic vinaigre. Serve immediately.

VINO: Well, it's hot and sticky hot. So something crisp and refreshing, but with some good old fashioned Southern sweetness. Actually, I'd recommend New Zealand Riesling from the area of Nelson if you can. If not, an old personal favorite of mine in Australia: Leeuwin, from Margaret River. Grab their Riesling.

BOLDNESS

2008-07-20T10:08:00.000-07:00

I've been having an issue with Californian wines for quite some time. Let's face it- they're about the fruit (for the most part). There is terroir, you do taste it here and there, but for the most part it's about purity of the fruit. In my recent trip to California many of the producers talked about harvest and they stressed the "purity of the fruit"- "the balance within the fruit". Many also talked about terroir, but usually this discussion was in reference to the quality of fruit that could come from that terroir.

So, fruit juice- what do you eat with fruit juice? While on that trip, there were many great meals. Grilled lamb chops, tandorri chicken, salads, cheeses, breads, pastas, etc...But it was a little precursor dish that continues to haunt my attention- hot, chicken tacos with mango/habanero sauce. I remember the dish, but not until last evening did it really sink in.

Last evening I went out to a very authentic Mexican joint in town. Really honest, home cooked food (they serve tongue tacos). And I was watching these guys preparing this food, and was just struck by the deep level of food culture that Central and South America has. (As a country, I just think we're seeing the tip of the iceberg now regarding our own unique food culture.) But, you saw these Latin Americans working and there was love being shown to the food. And then it hit me that Californian wines are made for Central and South American (and Cali) food. Tacos, Burritos, Empanadas, Rice and beans...spice, heat, bold flavors.

Sure there are some earthy, very close to being European styled wines coming out of CA. But, I wish for Cali that it would solely embrace it's cuisine and the cuisine of the South and just be BIG.

The wife's sauce

2008-07-14T19:56:00.000-07:00

My great go-to sauce has always been the classic French Dijon Vinaigrette. The reason is because my wife and son will eat anything I put it on. Simple stuff, but like all French cooking the beauty in it is not in the ingredients, but rather the technique. I make mine heavy- or creamy.

French Vinaigrette

scoop of dijon mustard
a little vinaigre (totaste- not too much)
olive oil (1-2 glubs, a glub is like 2 ounzes)
vegtable oil (1-2 glubs)
sea salt
black pepper
garlic clove (1-2, crushed)
finely chopped herbs

The key to it is to blend the vinaigre ( I like Champagne), mustard, salt, pepper, herbs, and a crushed garlic clove first. Whisk, and beat until creamy. Let it sit and come together for like 5 minutes. Then whisking fast add 1-2 glubs of veggie oil. Whisk until emulsified. Add a 1-2 gluvs of Olive oil. Whisk until emmulsified. The olive oil will thicken the sauce. Take out garlic cloves.

Pour into salad. Mix salad. Then drain salad (very important) and plate. You never want too much vinaigrette- just the hint of it.

Wine: Champagne or sparkling wine, or German Rielsing (Kabinette or Spatlese Trocken or Halb-Trocken).

Littorai

2008-07-10T03:29:00.000-07:00

Many apologies for my little exile here. Last week was spent in California, specifically in Napa and Sonoma seeing producers I represent.

Many things happening in Cali wine these days. Overall, there's definitely a grassroots shift back to the old school California wine scene: less oak, normal levels of alcohol, a search for true terroir, an investment in organic and bio-dynamic farming, and basically a truly sincerre effort to find balance in their wines. To be more frank, let's put it this way, at night after tasting, most producers would drink European wine rather than their own. Telling of the future.

There was one stop that I can't stop thinking about: Littorai.

Littorai is the project of a guy named Ted Lemon. I call Lemon the Yoda of the Cali wine scene as he's basically been there and done that in every aspect of wine production. He's made micro-production cuvees, and then he's consulted for the Franciscan Group. In the end he and his wife started this little winery called Littorai focusing on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the true Sonoma Coast (basically from "on the Pacific Ocean"). To say he works in a Burgundian style is really not enough. Ted managed Domaine Roulot (the famous Meursault producer) in the early 1980s- in fact he was the first American ever to manage a Burgundian estate. And today, I would easily put the wines of Littorai up against any top white Burgundies.

Ted's 2006s were stunning, but I expected that. What was revolutionary was his belief and practice of bio-dynamic farming. There's a lot of mumbo-jumbo going around bio-dynamic farming, and even I was skeptical of it prior to my visit with Ted. Harvesting and racking according to moon cycles. Burying a cow's horn filled with cow dung in your soil. And spraying animal's skins on your vineyard. Huh!? What!? You see what I mean?

As Ted put it, the premise is to return the soil (not the vines!) to a healthy natural state. The founder of bio-dynamics is a guy named Rudolph Steiner and Steiner writes about the ancient method of farming where the land co-existed in both a physical and spiritual world- in perfect harmony. So, yes, cow horns filled with year old cow manure-based compost are burried in the vineyard as the cow has the most advanced digestion system on the planet and this would spiritually invigorate the soil. Teas and sprays (that do have hamster skins in them) are employed. The hamster skins are the more intense part of the sprays, but they are there (again) to tell the spiritual animal pest world that they are not wanted in the vineyard. Moon cycle work is done. This makes the most sense, as Ted put it, "Two major cycles have been decided by the moon and control our lives: tides and the feminine cycle- both 28 days." True, true.

Is this all a bunch of dogma? Well, no. Ted's vineyards were glowing alive- just bursting with life. Moreover, the energy and vibe of his sites was very calm and positive, in comparison to the 20+ other producers I saw. The problem is that bio-dynamics is not quantifiable. You have to trust. But it makes a lot of sense. It's a return to the old natural way of farming when things were done on natural cycles, organically, and with respect for all of the elements that belonged to the site.

Makes an interesting question- is the ancient way the future?

My dear friend and mentor: Betty Franey

2008-06-26T19:26:00.000-07:00

The greatest pure COTT moments happen with important family members.

I will never forget standing over my kitchen sink next to my father when I was like 13-14. He had driven me home (probably from football practice). It was August. And he had stopped by a local farm stand and picked up these huge bursting ripe tomatoes. We went home. He took out a knife. Sliced two tomatoes in half, shook some salt then pepper over each open half, gave one to me, and then we gorged on them while leaning over the sink. The juices dripped down my mouth and chin, and I'll never forget the explosion of pure flavor that I tasted in those tomato halves. It would only have been mildly important if he wasn't there showing me this.

I'll also never forget that first weekend at my then girlfriend's (now wife's) grandmother's home in East Hampton. A lasagna that I had to have three helpings of. It was too good. The next night, a perfectly roasted chicken that was too die for. Perfectly caramelized outside. Perfectly succulent inside. And seasoning that was exquisite. The wine was Macon. It was pure, steely, apples..and it was perfect. And it was this moment that solidified my tract toward the food and wine business.

It's funny how I hear stories regarding Culture of the Table Moments, and the company is maybe sometimes played out in the background- with the food and wine taking center stage. I think the best COTT moments require the opposite. It is the people at the table, the people who cook with you, the people who share that glass with you that truly make the moment. Without them there is no sharing, no giving...and the moment is somehow less.

I lost a dear friend and family member yesterday. She was a mentor. She was a standard bearer for excellence in all things- both in and out of the kitchen. Looking back on this whole Culture of the Table philosophy I embrace, well, she discovered and practice it long before me. I will miss her very much and will take comfort that she will be with me in spirit for every meal, for every glass, and for every setting of the table.

And I will never forget her roast chicken.

First real meal back

2008-06-21T03:13:00.000-07:00

I'm past the mid-way point on this cleanse- Day 6 today- and done by Wednesday.It's affected the way I look at food. I still crave my vino, bread, cheese, meat, fish, etc...but I find myself thinking about getting back to normal eating and not just wanting to devour all of those things immediately. It's kind of like this- if you were forced to clean up your room after you had lived messy so long, and maintain it clean for a decent period of time...well...you tend to come like the new benefits of it being clean, and you're not so eager to mess it up right away.

That said, I can't wait for the rigidity of the cleanse way of life to end. Some free thinking on my first meal back. This Thursday will be the day...And I think it will be chicken, rice, and a lot of vegetables. Nothing crazy- probably just marinated grilled chicken breasts. And I will have wine...probably a sample that's open from the day (thinking ahead probably a Macon or something). And bread and cheese (again a couple slices of baguette and some slices of parmesan or comte or what's available).

A new me? No. And Yes. Still a gourmand. Still deeply a passionate eater and practicer of The Culture of the Table. Now, just doing it with respect to my human bio-dynamics...

(And although it's not a point of all of this, and not my intention, in 6 days I've lost 15lbs.)

Drinking the other side of the street in white Burgundy

2008-06-19T03:14:00.000-07:00

In speaking with a client this week regarding his in-store wine sales he pointed out that he's now selling white Burgundy. Fantastic! This is great stuuf. Understand that my excitement comes from the fact that I love Burgundy.

I can't afford it though- the best villages and the best vineyards anyway. What I can afford and do drink are the best wines from the towns next store. It's a lot like being a first time home buyer. Maybe you can't afford the super premium street, so you constantly look for the up-and-coming block. Same with me with regards to Burgundy.

So, moving back to white Burgundy, I have three villages that you should look to.

1. Auxey-Duresses...This is a town that borders Meursault to the North. As I get more and more into Meursault- and am able to taste the top producers (Roulot, Fichet, Coche-Drury, Lafon, etc...), I'm also discovering that almost all of these producers have vineyard holdings in Auxey-Duresses as well. Specifically Les Reugne vineyard if you can get it- as it's a sweet spot for Auxey. I find the wines a little more nervous than Meursault. A little more high-toned on the fruit. More citrus enters. More green apple. But, in the hands of a great producer like Fichet these wines drink just a notch down from their Meursault's and are priced at a huge discount against the Meursault's as well.

2. St Aubin...This town sits in a sleep little valley just off to the West between the areas of Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet. For me there is one producer- Lamy. (Note: I do represent Lamy professionally.) Hubert & Olivier Lamy make wines that, frankly, blow away most standard Chassagne and Puligny, and some premier cru quality Chassagne and Puligny as well. Specifically, buy their St Aubin En Remilly vineyard as it sits right next to the Grand Cru Batard-Montrachet, but is priced at 1/10 the price. And even his basic St Aubin is fantastic. Highly recommended.

3. St Romain...Another just outside of Meursault town. I've found the wines to be a little funkier here. A little more "pure hay", if you will. Mushrooms and earth pop up a little more. They are, well, Burgundian. Two producers worth noting here are Henri Boillot and Alan Gras. Gras especially, as he's known as pretty much THE producer from St Romain. And again, the wines are ridiculously cheap when you start comparing the prices against THE BEST wines from the big three: Meursault, Chassagne, and Puligny.

Point is, yes you can still drink very very well at a reasonable price in Burgundy. You just need to expand your geography and make sure you're choosing only the best producers.

Human Bio-dynamics

2008-06-18T03:23:00.000-07:00

So, I'm now on Day 3 of this Ayurvedic Cleanse and from a food standpoint I've discovered juicing. Juicing is cool.

This cleanse requires a breakfast of freshly prepared juices (usually in a combination of fruit and vegetables, and herbs). I've never done this before, but the flavor that comes off of carrot, juiced from scratch, or even cucumber, is amazing. It's very alive- very pure.

I going to try making some cold soups this way with a base of light spices and finishing with various oils and finely chopped herbs.

Other than that, I have to say that the food is edible, it sustains you, it certainly makes you feel healthy...but I'm not loving it. I'm now starting to understand that this cleanse- this diet- is the equivalent of farming your body bio-dynamically. From a agricultural standpoint I completely believe in that. Wines made when bio-dynamic farming is employed (for me) taste more alive- more pure- more "just' made. They are completely natural.

And here, this cleanse, it makes your health feel in very much that same way. But, I'm human, not a vine, not a plant, and I like my eggs, dairy, cheese, fat, meat, and fish...And I've got 7 days to go. I don't forsee myself gorging on those product categories come day 11, but damn I can't wait.

Master Cleanse

2008-06-15T18:58:00.000-07:00

So, tomorrow and for the next 10 days I will be participating in an ayurvedic cleanse. Again, keeping it short and sweet I can't drink alcohol, caffeine, eat dairy, protein, and for the most part carbohydrates (exception being millet and quinoa).

I can use pretty much any vegetable and herb you can think of (but no tomatoes). I can use fruit- and use dried fruits like raisins, dates, and cranberries. I can use walnuts and almonds. I can use olive oil (but not to sautee in, but to finish, yes). I can use lemon and avocado like it's going out of style. Spices - especially spices with heat (Cayenne, curry, Chile powder) I can use as much as I want. I can use salt and pepper. And as it's a vegetable I can use garlic.

It's like an LSAT question, right? Well, chefs, home chefs, I'm tossing this out to you. What's the best dish you have in your arsenal within those boundaries?

I'm all ears.

One of my bibles

2008-06-13T20:21:00.000-07:00

It's probably about time that I gave 'props' to one of my bibles...

Setting The Table, by Danny Meyer, is a reference-able work for me. I read it constantly- always going back to sections for insight into business, creative ideas, and general keys to success. It goes without saying that if you haven't gone to Manhattan and eaten at one of Meyer's restaurants- GO!

I've gone several times and have eaten at Union Square, The Modern, Grammercy and Eleven Madison. Each meal was fantastic. But, what always shocks me is their level of execution. Meyer believes and preaches a philosophy called Enlightened Hospitality. I'm not going to get into it, but it's the key to their execution at such a high level, at all restaurants, all of the time. I find it amazing.

And it goes without saying that Meyer and his restaurants definitively practice The Culture of the Table.

'Cause it goes with hotdogs...

2008-06-11T20:23:00.000-07:00

Did a piece for Plum TV tonight, and they tried to stump me by candidly throwing the question, "So what do you drink with hotdogs."

Champagne.

Why not. Champagne goes with everything. You want to throw down for ribeye and bernaise sauce, then send me a glass of Vintage Rose. Sushi. Champagne. Chinese with a Szechuan hot sauce dish. Definitely Champagne. Italian, maybe a pasta. Well, I take that back. When eating Italy, drink Italy. For me, that's a law.

Buy Champagne. Drink more Champagne. Chefs, push more Champagne with your food. It works. It's delicious and it's serious with food.

My favorite ever: Salon 1985. I'll never forget it. It had this petrol nuttiness that reminded me of great aged White Burgundy. Like the aromatics you get off a really great bottle of Raveaneu. They were basically indescribable, yet glorious.

Regardless, just as I made a passionate appeal for people to eat more arugula. I'm now making a passionate plea for people to start drinking Champagne with food- to treat it like wine.

'Cause it goes with hot dgos.

Just the mustard please...

2008-06-10T20:51:00.000-07:00

Most nights I come home 'round 8pm. Sometimes my wife and son are already in bed. My wife is not a cook, and I almost always come home hungry. When am I not game for food?

On hand I always have:

cheese
olives
lettuce
components for a freshly made vinaigrette (oil, vinaigre, mustard, salt and pepper)
baguette

And a wine. Usually it will be whatever I had opened that day that I liked. Lately I'm quite smitten with our Frappato based reds of Southern Sicily. Sicilian Beaujolais I've presented them as. A little chill and they are fantastic- especially in this heat wave.

It's not a legendary COTT moment, but the above components are simple, honest, and pure. They allow me to have a simple, honest meal, and enjoy a good glass or two of excellent wine. I write this as some have chimed in lately with comments that COTT moments have to be elaborate. Not so all the time. A very well made salad can be mind blowing, and in the right setting can be completely part of the Culture of the Table.

COTT requires honesty that's all- not dollars.

Perfect Day

2008-06-09T19:37:00.000-07:00

I've started working with an ayurvedic consultant. Not going to get into it as far as details, but basically this is a science/practice/religion based in Buddhism/Yoga/Eastern thought that promotes health through more of a holistic approach. What goes in, and comes out, of your body are paramount, as well as is the concept of balance within the equilibrium of the body's personal health both in mind, body, and spirit. This is going to sound a little lupy, but as I am a huge fan of Star Wars (and personally regard it as the greatest story of our time)...I find this health study very, well, Jedi. So for me- it's cool.

One of the things this consultant has asked me to do is keep a journal. An open ended, free-thought journal, but with the one condition that I define a "perfect day". What a great question! I vividly remember my father sitting me down at age 14 and asking me what I wanted to do with the rest of my life (the right answer was, "Nothing. I want to go outside and continue playing wiffleball"), and I remember being so lost by that question. Actually, still am? Aren't we all- all the time? But, here's a question that doesn't ask that, but asks that. And as a passionate believer in the embrace of the Culture of the Table I'm now going to take the time to think about what I'd eat/drink with my perfect day. Here goes...

Breakfast- coffee and juice (Sorry. Nothing sexy here. Breakfast for me on the perfect day is actually about getting time to read the paper in peace.)

Lunch- I actually almost (didn't have Raveaneu) had it once. A perfect lobster omelet with a fresh side salad of micro greens and champagne vinaigrette. A nice hunk of perfect French baguette and a sampler of farmer cheeses. And a bottle of Raveneau Vaillons- 10 years old or older....or a bottle of Tempier Rose (current vintage)

Dinner- The Balthazar shellfish tower. Lamb tangine with herbed couscous. Selected farmer cheeses. Start of with Salon 1988, then to Tempier Cassabou 1990, Clos Rougeard Poyeux 1990, Chave Hermitage Rouge (mid-80's), and Emidio Pepe Montepulciano 1983. Cheese would see: lots of older Burgs from Jayer-Gilles, Comte Armand, Rousseau, Roumier, and DRC.

Dessert: 1863 Barbeito Malvasia......I'll never forget that wine. Greatest wine I have ever tasted. Inexplicable. Like drinking history.

And...I just realized that a perfect day would be filled with like 50,000 other meals/pairings...so carpe diem people.

When the sun gets hot...

2008-06-07T19:22:00.000-07:00

As I move into June, my diet, my appetite, my interests in food switch. Butter takes a finishing role instead of a foundational one. Pasta tastes better cold. Herbs are rarely bought, but scissored. The grill becomes grail and everything from the protein of the day, to the local vegetables, to fruit is marinated in olive oil, salt, and pepper and then promptly transferred for a high sear.

My wine interests change as well. Rose becomes the house wine. But I still love red wine. I want fresh red wine- not vintage stuff (not that I'm passing on a glass of older stuff, but I'm pulling younger reds). And as follows with the diet above, my palate craves hearty reds that match my move toward a Mediterranean diet. The wines from Faugueres, St Chinian, Corbieres, Fitou, Minervois, and the rest of the Southern French belt are all standards.

And now I can say I've found the epi-center in Mediterranean wine: Corsica.

Corsica is an interesting place. I've yet to go, but from family members who have gone they say it is still very much a rebellious brash country and people. Although technically French, the country carries a very Italian-centric culture (at least according to the people I've spoken to about it). Maybe it is in essence the best of both Mediterranean France and Italy?

There are a couple of fantastic producers on the island, and one is Antoine Arena. Arena is arguably the best producer in Corsica, and makes wine in the top AOC (or quality controlled appellation) called Patrimonio. His Carco Vineyard bottling of Nieluccio (or Sangiovese) is a reference point wine for all of Corsica, and for me it is one of the best Mediterranean reds out there.

I had the 2005 Arena Patrimonio Carco Rouge tonight. Imagine Brunello di Montalcino power and grace mixed with the wild, savage sage and brush tones of Southern France. It screams Mediterranean. Depth...just so deep...the wine goes on and on with layers of red fruits popping in and out, and dark herbal notes wrapped around all of this. And still- laser beam fresh! In short, a fantastic wine. Definitely a producer to note, to buy, to cellar, and to drink when the Sun gets hot.

A very desperate need in the world

2008-06-04T18:08:00.000-07:00

If I win the lottery tomorrow I am pulling a Diane Keaton in Baby Boom (1987). I swear- there is no good baby / kids food. Chefs, if you read this, please (!) as a parent and fellow foodie I appeal to you- re-vamp your kids menus if they consist of just pasta and chicken fingers. Nothing is more of a downer to a parent. Add real deal meatloaf, cheese and veggie omelets, and if must be pasta- make it pasta primavera!

Or, put on what I served Little Man tonight: savory crepes.

Everyone thinks of crepes as a Parisian dessert, but there is an entirely different category to the medium where you can add savory fillings. Tonight I served the crepe with asparagus and sauteed mushrooms and cheese- lots of Parmesan. Drizzled some truffle oil and it was golden. Cheese is the key with these non-pasta, non fried foods. It reels the kid in and gets him chomping.

I swear. If I get my 50 million I'm going to buy a small warehouse, open long term contracts with local growers (and Southern growers in warm weather states who work organically and sustainably), install a high powered catering level kitchen, hire my Mom (books) and 3 employees, buy a shitload of small bottles, buy a ton of labels, fill out the necessary FDA forms, and open Troy's Baby Food.

There 's no competition. And a huge, country wide need.

If you are hugely capitalized and can move now, feel free to trump me.

On a side note:

Tonight's wine: Owen Roe Cabernet Franc Slide Mountain Vineyard 2005...If I told you this was a modernist Chinon producer in a hot vintage like 2005 you would probably completely agree. Almost no perceptible trace of West Coast super fruit. Alcohol is totally integrated and the fruit is that classic Cab Franc wild black black raspberry. Some bramble and blackberry as well. Bursting fruit, but all within the guise of a very woodsy, very Chinon, style. Recommended.

Vote: ARUGULA

2008-06-02T20:01:00.000-07:00

I am making a passionate plea for more folks to embrace arugula. It is such the quintessential Italian green. Toss it with very good olive oil and lemon juice, as a salad. Layer it on pizza. Throw it into a beautiful pasta of pancetta, olive oil, lemon juice, and parmesan. It is an ingredient that speaks immediately of all things Italian. And it adds a spice and heat which makes you think.

And of course, it deserves rose. My current Italian love........Muri Gries Lagrein Rosato 2007...minerally and driven by rock. Good with spicey green things as well...

Wine of the Month: 1959 Richebourg

2008-06-01T18:05:00.000-07:00

My uncle-in-law just got married. It was a beautiful ceremony and the wedding party enjoyed 2002 Roumier Clos de la Bussiere and '00 Fevre Chablis Bougros Grand Cru amongst other wines.

But the "Men's Dinner" on Friday night was also something to remember. A legendary lobster bisque made by Hampton's wine professional/chef Peter Hoepfner was to die for, and lamb chops with a garlic-breadcrumb crust were legendary, along with many other treats.

Wines:
1995 Pierre Moncuit Blanc de Blanc Mag
1990 Niellon Chassagne Champs Gains 1er Cru
1999 Raveneau Chablis Chapelot 1er Cru
1999 Raveneau Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru
1982 Dom Leroy Beaune Cuvee Clos des Avaux
1985 Jadot Beaue Cuvee Dames Hostpitaliers
1993 Chapelle Santenay Gravieres 1er Cru
1986 Chapelle Santenay Gravieres 1er Cru
1996 Arnoux Nuits St George Les Poisets 1er Cru
1997 Gaunoux Pommard Grands Epenots 1er Cru
1990 Pierre Bouree Mazys-Chambertin Grand Cru
1993 Trapet Chambertin Grand Cru
1995 Louis Remy Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
2001 Francois Parent Romanee St Vivant Grand Cru
2001 A.F. Gros Pommard 1er Cru (forget vineyard)
1969 DRC Richebourg Grand Cru
1959 DRC Richebourg Grand Cru
1999 Cht Y'Quem

Wine of the night: '59 Richebourg (unavailable)

Not very far behind: 1993 Trapet Chambertin (Available $119bt retail)

Surprise in the mix: 1990 Niellon...as complex as the '59 Richebourg (but white), and 1999 Raveneau Chapelot (like pure white Alba truffle)

Lesson: Have the patience to forget about great Burgundy producers (regardless of what the vintage is panned for)...

God is in the details

2008-05-28T20:35:00.000-07:00

There is a widely published endilible link between music and fashion, and I think there is also an endilible link between fashion, design, music, and food and wine.

The place matters. The setting matters. The aura- the music- it matters. I think back to my truly profound dining experiences and there was a soundtrack that raised the dining level to profound. I remember the flowers, the lighting, the feeling of energy in the room...even if it was just The Modern for a Sunday lunch (one of my great recent dining experiences).

When I grew up my father would play LPs of Bach, Brahms, Handel, etc...during dinner and I truly believe this grounded me in the appreciation of dining (even though I'm sure he never intended for this).

For me, I will always return to classic Baroque for dinner. It's timeless, and per above has a very important emotional connection for me with the table. But, I love my blues. I love my jazz- my Coltrane and Davis. And here, while writing this I find myself listening to live Coldplay...and seeing this being an excellent soundtrack to a glass of rose at The Modern bar.

Trump's Trump. But he once remarked, "God is in the details." In that he is spot on.

Essential Reading

2008-05-27T19:56:00.000-07:00

I put out an offer to my client's this morning entitled "Sauce Gribiche". I took the recipe from my wife's Grandfether's book, The Seafood Cookbook. I never met Pierre Franey, but he continues to be a heavy inspiration for me in regards to COTT moments and what I consider to be quality in food.

His resume is legendary. His work at the NY Times has anchored that paper as the country's foodie newspaper even to this day. And many people don't know that he has written like 10+ books; all excellent. But I have 3 which I consider absolutely necessary:

60 Minute Gourmet
http://www.amazon.com/New-York-Times-60-Minute-Gourmet/dp/0812933028/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1211943775&sr=8-4

The Seafood Cookbook
http://www.amazon.com/Seafood-Cookbook-Pierre-Franey/dp/0812916042/ref=pd_bbs_sr_8?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1211943683&sr=8-8

Cuisine Rapide
http://www.amazon.com/Cuisine-Rapide-Pierre-Franey/dp/0812917464/ref=pd_bbs_sr_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1211943683&sr=8-2

Especially Cuisine Rapide...some of the best incredibly simple recipes you will find anywhere.

2008-05-26T20:18:00.000-07:00

My apologies for passing on the past couple of days...

Obviously a big holiday weekend, and many wines flowed with many dishes being served. Everything from 1983 Chateau Certan...which is drinking right now (and I'm not so sure about how much later, so pop the corks on your '83 Certan's if you got 'em)...to simple New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc...to house Gruner Veltliner.

We missed the rose boat...just the way the weekend went down, but it got me thinking about what I would serve to guests. It's a timeless question that every wine shop owner gets every Summer...."I'm having a party. I'm serving to varied guests of wine knowledge and/or passion, and I have a budget. What should I serve?"

Such a wide open question, so many possibilities, but mid-Saturday I oddly enough found myself at that exact party. And I started thinking and wondering. Here's what I would have advised for you:

Summer Dinner / Luncheon party

Rose (under $15 retail) from Europe. Keep it lean, mean, and offer something different. (ie, Cotes du Rhone Rose, Rose of Nebbiolo from Italy, Rose from Burgundy, etc...)

White...Anjou, Savennieres, or a very good Muscadet. If it's Italian, be very chosey on the crisp and white thing...maybe a very interesting Falanghina?

Fun, cool option: Chilled small production Beaujolais. It's a foodie classic. Chilled. Seriously.

Red: Fitou, Corbieres, or Faugeres...think grilled foods, heat, Summer, sea-based peppery reds, Mediterannean, etc...

These wines (and their prices- even in today's economic climate) have never failed me.

A Cru Ranking of California Vineyards

2008-05-22T19:15:00.001-07:00

Over the past couple of years, as my study and profession of wine continued to move along, I have been under the notion that someone should formally write down and publish the "Cru Vineyards of California". Bordeaux has a published list. Burgundy has a published list. Alsace. Germany. Chavignol. California is definitely old enough that unique, singular, and "special" vineyards- special places for that matter- should be recognized as having superior terroir. It's a project I think I will start...now.

Grand Cru
ToKalon Vineyard, Napa
James Berry Vineyard, Paso Robles
Charles Heintz Vineyard, Sonoma Coast
Bien Nacido Vineyard, Santa Barbara
Melville Vineyard, Santa Barbara
Hudson Vineyard, Napa
Marcassin Vineyard, Napa
Black Sears Vineyard, Napa
Monte Bello Vineyard, Santa Cruz Mountains
Mount Carmel Vineyard, Santa Barbara
Clos Pepe Vineyard, Santa Barbara
Dutton Ranch Vineyard, Sonoma

Premier Cru
Griffin's Lair Vineyard, Sonoma Coast
Savoy Vineyard, Sonoma Coast
Spring Ridge Mountain Vineyard, Santa Cruz
Kiser Vineyard, Anderson Valley

And I'm already lost. Well, a start. I welcome your input. Hit the "0 Comments" button below and let me know what I've missed.
Seasmoke Vineyard, Santa Barbara

How to make Loire Valley Cab Franc work

2008-05-21T21:13:00.000-07:00

I never understood the importance of the Loire until now.

The wines are not easy; they demand a conversation, and for that reason simply can't be cocktail wines. And having visited through a slew of the top producers last July I came away a little confused. I felt like I missed something. Until tonight.

The Cabernet Franc that grows in the Loire produces meaty wines. They are often defined by a certain vegetal quality and green pepper notes. They are intensely minerally and wrought with terroir, and as I said above there's so much hitting your palate that you simply aren't allowed to gulp and swallow.

There's fruit too. There's actually tons of fruit- for me always defined by some sort of raspberry profile, usually black raspberry.

But tonight I had some Loire reds hanging out and I made a simpled marinated grilled chicken breast (in chipolte sauce). And the wines were perfect. Powerful enough to stand up to the spice. Earthy enough to not overwhelm the chicken meat. And the vegetal thing brought it all together with the little tiny pieces of blackened meat.

If you haven't tried them, go by yourself a Chinon, or a Touraine Cabernet, or a Saumur Champigny Rouge, or a Bourgeuil. Chill it down a little. Open the grill and sear some meat. You will find a delicious combination.

Kermit

2008-05-20T21:09:00.000-07:00

It's been a long day, and a long week- and it's only Wednesday.

Overall, as the wine biz has tightened and become more competitive due to the currency and consumers tightening their own wallets, I find myself in need of inspiration. Why sell this stuff? After all, it's only fermented grape juice...why ask consumers to pay more than 2 buck chuck?

Than I go back to Kermit. Kermit Lynch is one of the old school super great wine importers. And his two books, Adventures on the Wine Route and Inspiring Thirst are living testaments to the ability of wine to create a personal culture of the table which celebrates life, love, people, experiences, and of course- food. For me, his writings make it more than acceptable to spend over $20bt on a single bottle of wine.

Go to Amazon...buy some used copies. Keep them tableside.

You will be inspired.

Monday Night Special

2008-05-19T20:34:00.000-07:00

I just bought a house. It's my first house. Right now, for me, it's expensive (although everyone keeps telling me that it all oddly works out.) So yes, like any freaked person about their personal finances I'm cutting back. Luckily for me my work's definitely increased, so fortunately COTT moments are demanding of much shorter preparations than I would normally like. That's OK. I can have a COTT on a budget and 20 minutes.

Pasta and sauce. It's cheap. It's pre-made. It can be dressed up and elegant. After experimenting with several sauces I've actually come to like Barilla's the best. They seem to add a little sugar to enrich the tomatoes and it does kind of make the sauce taste a little fresher. Chop some parseley- throw it in there. Drizzle some very good olive oil over it. Large chunks of freshly ground black pepper. And a lot of very good grated Parmigiana.

Wine: Dolcetto. Dolcetto is like the pasta and sauce of Italian wine. You know it. You know it's good. It can be cheesy and made to be Merlot-like. But good producers make very interesting examples: DeForville, Roagna, Borgogno, Boglietti Tiglieneri, Rinaldi, Mascarello, Luigi Enuadi, etc...

Consider it...on a Monday night.

The Importance of Thevenet

2008-05-18T20:42:00.000-07:00

Thevenet is important.

If you love French wine than you should know about Thevenet, just as you know about Lu-Lu Bize-Leroy, or Raveneau, or Dagueneau. The Thevenet family is known as the old school benchmark winemakers for over-the-top, Grand Cru-esque styled Maconnais wines. They harvest a little later than normal, but do so with laughable low yields. Then their elevage is incredibly long, and you usually aren't supposed to even think about drinking the wines unless they have a couple years on them.

I couldn't resist myself. Last week I saw a bottle of Thevenet St Veran Clos de L'Ermitage Cuvee Vieilles Vignes 2006. I grabbed it. There came a point on Saturday when my wife and I wanted some white. It was in the fridge- my mistake to begin with (this should have been down in the cellar). And when I blew the hatch and tasted it I knew I had screwed up. The wine was wound wound wound. Like super G tight.

It opened over the weekend and was enjoyable. I don't want to say that I didn't enjoy drinking this wine. It's just that I've had older Thevenet wines, so I know what this artist intends for proper consumption- and it ain't fresh release wines to be opened right away.

But anyway, point is for $25 this is drinking better than most 1er Cru Chablis, better than most AOC Chassagnes and Pulignys. It is incredibly interesting and unique. I'm not going to do the fruit profile thing cause that would cheese it up a lot; and the wine's better than that. Let's just leave it at this- it's a very very serious wine.

Lamb/Rhone...not perfected

2008-05-16T18:23:00.000-07:00

As a Long Islander, I'm longing for the heat at this point. It's freezing- very cold for the time of year, and my person wants to be outside. East outside. Drink cold wines. Roses. And leave the Winter until again.

Rhone. That's where my mind's at these days. Chateauneuf is you can find good affordable CDP. (Domaine St benoit CDP Rge Grande Garde 2005- drinking very well right now). But, I grew up drinking Liracs, Rasteaus, Cairannes, etc...The other great villages. And of course lamb along with these wines. (I'm determined to eat and drink my Spring some how.)

Did lamb sauteed on the stove tonight. Finished with a little puree of garlic and olives and olive oil. It was OK. It needed the grill, but it was raining. I lament.

'Tis the weekend and the garden needs my help. Fresh herbs. Young vegetables, and a bottle of Thevenet St Veran.

A dieu...

Insalata Amalfitana

2008-05-15T18:24:00.000-07:00

Absolutely amazing amazing salad.

Went to go see a client today and found myself early by about 2 hours. Cool. Bring on the return of a fine business lunch. Why not? Maybe a return to the days of the two martini lunch. Can you imagine that? Like mid-1980s, and you go out to lunch- with clients (!)- and bang out 2 martinis. I'd lose so much business...or maybe I'd make so much more business...than I'd know what to do with. Times are different. My dad did the 2 martini lunches back in the day. But then again, faxes were highly complex and revolutionary. Dad's passed, but the thought of him under the laser pressure of blackberry business speed doesn't match.

Anyway, back to return to the 80s business lunch today- a true thing I wish we would do. (Where are the expense accounts anymore.). Great little restaurant in Huntington, NY (Long Island): Jonathan's. Proprietor's name is Roberto. He's out of Rome, and came over to work at Le Cirque..eventually he made his way out East. But, the key is the dude knows Italian freshness.

It's such a simple salad...paper thin slices of red onion, raw fennel, some baby arugala, and small peeled tangerine slices. The key is a perfect dressing of salt and white pepper, and fantastic olive oil and lemon juice. The salad is incomparable.

I returned to the 80s and di the business lunch, sans wine or martini. Sorry, actually did have to be "business-like" by early afternoon. But, I would have loved a half bottle of Russiz Superiore Sauvignon with this. Russiz is one of absolute favorites in Friuli...the delineation of acid and minerals that you find in Alto Adigean whites with the power of Jermann, the most famous producer in Friuli.

Ah well....next time.

2004 Terres Dorees Beaujolais Vieilles Vignes

2008-05-14T18:26:00.000-07:00

Things are getting a little more difficult to continue to perform a COTT moment each night as Little Man maintenance is definitely getting the way of prep, plating, and eating. It's all good though. He's Little Man and I love him more than myself. There will plenty of other nights where I'll get to cook a great meal, enjoy a well laid out table, and feast with great wine.

But, did manage to pull of some simple flounder. People poo-poo the flounder; that's a mistake. Flounder is one of the world's great cheap meats. (I know. I know. Buy skate- it's classic!) And flounder with a simple breaded crust with a pat of butter, some parseley, and lemon is just ridiculously simple to make. The key I've learned is a hot hot pan, with the fat being a mix of butter and olive oil. Seems to work the best through the heat.

Anyway, made a simple salad, and knocked down a glass of the above wine- and it was on day 3 mind you. Just shows the great complexity of grower Bojo. Gamay that actually tastes like it's place. There are earth, leather, and herbal notes that you would associate with the Rhone. And then a dark, almost Gevery quality. All in all, you would never guess Gamay. Damn, this shit is earthy and funky (but like P-Funk funky, good funky).

Go buy a bottle. I found mine for $15. In my mind it's drinking $23.